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Posts posted by mikerecike
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Fake - trigger | fuel/oil caps | front handle metal | recoil plastic - they're the giveaways in my opinion
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No luck folks. Got it out - new carb kit but needle just won't seat and make a seal. It's a WT 99 with 752 stamped in for a Jonsered GR50.Any ideas where I might get a cheap replacement carb.Seen some common Stihl carb replacements for £12 ish but can't seem to find one for this?
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Thanks all - much appreciated - was quoted £45 for a new carb so am gonna give this poking / blowing a go.
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Remove the exhaust.Sit it somewhere safe outside and get a blow torch on it - you'll soon start to burn up carbon and oil when it's glowing red.
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Sorted - tapped it out and a couple of springs on order
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Thanks Barrie and Spud - will take a shufty
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Pressure testing a Walbro WT 170 for a friend and air is escaping through impulse hole on side that mates with block and cylinder. New one on me. New carb kit and Welch plug (could he have damaged something with Welch plug change?).Scratching my head.
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Tried my auto darkening welding mask - bit lacking in peripheral vision. Scratching is a prob yep.
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Any recommendations for a good quality face protection shield or even full on helmet when grinding / bench grinding? Bought a cheapo visor from Amazon years ago and it feels vulnerable. Something like this looks safe.
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My experience of removing spark arrestors is that the engines breathe / run better
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I wear Martens Conrad all the time but for standing around not walking about I go for Clarks Active Air.
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Faithfull Power Plus -Amazon £40.Doesn't get a lot of use but when I looked it seemed a good balance between crap and crown jewels for me.
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There's hundred of vids on youtube.I like weldingtipsandtricks and chuckE2009
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I have no knowledge of chemistry but am with Barrie here. Get the diaphragms out of a dry stored 2 stroke carb and they often feel like cardboard - all elasticity gone. I've tried re- soaking them in oil, petrol, even dot 4 break fluid which somebody told me. Once that elasticity goes it don't come back.
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Can't see much here about what metal you're trying to weld? I'm an amateur but my first and most important lesson was whatever kit you use if you're trying to weld unsuitable / too thin metal you'll get frustrated + welding is all about the prep / cleaning / butting etc . If you're going to be doing lots of thin sheet stuff invest in a mig - lots of little welds like the car repairers do (in a line) keeps the heat, distortion and burning through down.
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Looks like quality Barrie. Cheers. That"ll save a few strains.
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Our new mower bench.
We used to have to lift mowers onto the old bench, which obviously was a bit of an HSE issue. This one drops to about 200m and lifts to 1220mm.
[ATTACH]191041[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]191042[/ATTACH]
Ace.Who makes that Barrie?
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If you need help writing your ads / flyers PM me.It's my biz.
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It's an ancient canadian pioneer or partner - haven't identified it yet. Have measured knackered chain and I make it:
51Drive Links
1.5mm Gauge
.404 Pitch ( half gap between 3 rivets = 10.25mm - so I'm thinking .404 - is that right?)
Am assuming I can't just use a 3/8" pitch chain without changing the sprocket?? so that's not going to happen.
Can't seem to find this chain on the bay - any ideas?
Cheers
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[ATTACH]187565[/ATTACH] first thing I found
Show us a full frontal picture in all her glory
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[ATTACH]187565[/ATTACH] first thing I found
That spark plug connector looks like It"ll provide years of sterling service too
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Aha cheers billy
Honda izy Mower Slow Idle & Weak Self Propel
in Maintenance help
Posted
Managed to get idle up to 3000rpm by raising the star headed screw and pulling the throttle cable back about 3mm into the clamp. Is that the only way to do it - feels like there's nowhere left to go and the choke doesn't have that 'nice locking feeling' as you shift the throttle control forward. Could it just be tired springs all round? Should I reset the big governor arm (undo then clockwise turn the centre scew? )
Secondly - in pic of self propel cable fitting - the more it's screwed out the more engaged the drive belt? Doesn't look like there's much play left to me - not changed in years - stretching of cable or belt the cause of a slow propel? Thank you.