mikerecike

1 hour ago, adw said:

Started to see this more.

 

That looks really promising, cheers. - can't see any immediately available .....

47 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Blimey, that's a new one on me and I have a set of ten different types of adjuster. You may be able to get a bit of plastic tubing on it to turn it out. I once used the insulator off a crimp electrical connector.

The splined adjuster may fit it and that round hole may be just for indication but reckon not.

Other than that, you could cut a slot in it with a dremel diamond cut off disk which may be messy unless you can get it out or you could open that little hole out and use the PAC man adjuster as long as the diameter is correct. 

Yep new to me too. The circumference fits a couple of carb screwdrivers I have but the hole does not.At first I thought it was like one of those EPA plastic obstructor caps but scratched it & it's all metal. Onwards .... 👍

35 minutes ago, Macpherson said:

 

Personally not seen that one before either, at the point you're at most would bin the machine and buy another which is exactly what 'they' want, all machines need adjusted after a certain amount of use and again they know that.. imo.

 

From that pic you have several options that come to mind.. perhaps the easiest way to get it out could be to try a pair circlip pliers as the hole is eccentric, or maybe a very small easyout or failing that what about 'very carefully' super gluing a pin / nail in the hole and using a pair of pliers.. anyway once it's out carefully put a slot in it with a dremel or a junior hacksaw blade, good luck.

 

PS. acetone dissolves CA glue. 👍 

 

 

All good suggestions - thankyou MacPherson - appreciated 

Better pic of the H screw. Certainly don't have that screwdriver - (if anyone can identify it)

35 minutes ago, spudulike said:

You can get a set of carb adjusters which cover most eventualities but would say the splined, D and hex are the most useful and yours looks to be splined or possibly D...I took a close look at your pic but it pixelates and I can't see it clearly enough (second Photo).

The second photo is the H screw and is the one you need to adjust for High speed - turn it anticlockwise.

The first photo, sometimes but not always, there is a plastic or soft rubber tiny bung in the brass bit and if you prize this out, there will be a screw underneath which is actually the top of the barrel needle and you can richen the low speed running by undoing it a little. 

The idle speed may be adjusted if the needle is adjusted but it may be fixed on a low cost machine like this.

Check out the fuel filter and the fuel lines as they may be shot giving you the issues you have and also the internal gauze strainer could also cause similar issues.

I have had machines like this need a slight adjustment but also had the fuel line issues as above on irregular used machines.

Cheers Spud. Appreciated. I will check the fuel filter and then try to get a suitable tool in to adjust that black high screw on the side - anti clockwise to richen. If still prob I'll dismantle the carb & check / clean that gauze filter.

1 hour ago, adw said:

I have seen these before, if there I’d no screw head then the needle is fixed and not adjustable, the screw in the side should be the H screw.

So that's the screw to richen the mixture then I guess - I'll take another pic tomorrow & see if any of my carb screwdrivers fit. Cheers.

Any help on how to adjust this (presumably Chinese) carb on Screwfix titan multi tool pls. Have adjusted other barrel carbs down the top in the past by digging out a plug and then using micro flathead. This seems to have its own design. Also has side screw??as pictured. Not sure what that does. Cheers folks. ( It's starved of fuel & so dying at full throttle).

14 minutes ago, Ratman said:

 

Wera Kraftform 334 Screwdriver, Flared Slotted

WWW.UKTOOLCENTRE.CO.UK

---

 

 

Any good?

 

Cheers Ratman - not sure but closest so far - cheers - the tip is not the same & the shaft seems thicker. (ordered one to try). What is great about mine is that it stores energy like a spring (you can feel shaft twist slightly) then unleashes it. The full width head (once it opens out it doesn't come back in) also seems to deliver more torgue . I read a paper on this years ago & that bit of extra width works wonders  Had a minor meltdown a couple of yrs ago when I mislaid it  

Often you need a Belleville washer, not a normal washer. A Belleville washer looks like a washer but is more of a coned spring - they're used for a reason.

9 minutes ago, Darrin Turnbull said:

the name on the handle is WERALIT

Yep -  typo - guessing it's from the Wera stable. Had a look at the Wera website - nothing like it there. Cheers.

Best small engine screwdriver needs replacing. (there's an exciting topic). Weraltt Kraftform  Vanadin Germany .

Massive amount of torque because of the flare (which doesn't taper back in). Can't find anything like this online. It was originally covered in red insulation which I cut off - so maybe electrical screwdriver? Any doctors of screwdriverology out there? Alternative?

Shaft 125mm, Tip Thickness about1.2mm. Width at flare 5.5mm.

15 hours ago, Heavy Oil Saw said:

We at work and myself at home use ceramic anti seize. Provides a barrier between aluminium and steel and prevents corrosion, if used with heat, the grease burns off and leaves a ceramic powder, allowing easier removal.
Wera and Bondhus hex keys, or any of their tools for fixings are amazing, never had a Wera fail or ruin a head on a fixing.

Cheers for that - just ordered. Yep I have some amazing Wera screwdrivers & my hex & torx keys are Facom (recommended by @Gardenkit years ago  ) - also brill.

Mineral Oil Based Grease? better than copper anti sieze for steel bolts into alloy engine parts apparently. Can somebody recommend a named mineral oil based grease that I can buy on Ebay / Amazon pls?  OR is the lithium based grease which I seem to have the most of a better bet than copper for this application? 

Ta.

1 minute ago, Stubby said:

I think about it all the time ☺️

Well, admitting it is the first step to recovery ?

4 minutes ago, Ratman said:

Copper grease is not a perfect match with alloys really, tends to go dry and create the foisting scenario. We use alcoa hub grease at work for majority of steel against alloy applications, wheels/bolts/mating surfaces in general, its pretty expensive i believe but we’re a pretty big workshop so fairly go through it and it really does make a difference we find. Anything mineral based is the best option, you’ll be fine using copper grease or any grease really as long as you pay attention to the bolt often enough i.e just slacken it and retighten it every so often to stop any foist starting “anything wets a good bet” as they say in the lube world

Appreciated - didn't realise this. I'll have a shufty to see what greases I've got. Wondering if my tub of castrol grease is mineral based - will need to check. Any thoughts on aluminium anti seize grease? Thanks a lot.

36 minutes ago, Ratman said:

Good job on the extraction as an aid to the future, refit your new bolt with some grease that is specific to use with alloy materials, and every once in a while remove and retreat. Some litte and often tlc on your equipment here and there will save you plenty in the long run and reward you in your pocket at the same time.

Cheers - I used a bit of copper grease on the threads - is there a better option?

BINGO! - Torx bit, medium hammer persuasion, small ratchet, lots of downward pressure. So, got the muffler off & as suspected carbon build up outside exhaust port explained lack of oomph. Cleaned off & now revving right up. Love that exhaust crack you get when things are clean.

Thanks a lot folks - getting support here always gives me a second wind to have another go at my maintenance / repairs. 

4 minutes ago, PhillH said:

No need to get the lump hammer on it, just enough for the torx to dig in and grip.

know what you mean - cheers - appreciated

4 minutes ago, aspenarb said:

If you are not in a hurry just araldite the allen bit into the cap screw and forget about it for a day. If its not seized in there it will undo.

 

Bob

interesting! - cheers

1 minute ago, Ratman said:

As above, use a male torx/spline/ribe socket, failing that its a modify your plastic cover outcome ?

cheers Ratman - when I read 'modify', in my head I'm hearing 'butcher' - will get more serious with the torx / spline options - ta

1 minute ago, PhillH said:

Hi, bit brutal but try knocking a “old” torx bit in. Something slightly bigger than the Allan key. The shock usually help release it too. If you can, try pushing directly down on it whilst undoing it to. For example if using a ratchet push down on the mechanism whilst ratcheting so the torx does not go over to one side.

cheers - gotta do something that doesn't shock downwards too much as it's seated in soft chinese alloy probably

1 minute ago, Richard 1234 said:

Have you tried jamming a big star driver on it. Sometimes they will grab on for long enough 

If it was into steel I'd go to town but A. It's buried down a plastic / flammable hole, & B. It's screwed into a probably very soft alloy above the cylinder head :0 

Bolt holding all the plastic strimmer cowling on. Down a hole so tricky to access. Any tips? Thanks folks.

9 hours ago, GardenKit said:

Mike. Inlet valves 5-7thou, Ex valve 7-9thou.

The primer does not suck fuel on these engines, it applies some pressure directly into the carb float chamber which pushes down on the fuel level, which in turn squirts some up into the carb throat.

The bulb needs to seal in its housing, and the housing needs to seal against the carb or some pressure can be lost.

Also, if the primer is in the housing, as I suspect, rather then the remote type, some pressure can be lost through the little white hose tail on the right of there carb, just above the fuel hose. This hose tail can be removed and sealed by melting the tip with a lighter flame (do it away from the carb) before reinserting into carb. 

The tail is just there for when remote primers are used and the pump pressure pulse is fed to this tail by a pipe.

Hope this helps

 

That's an ace explanation  Barrie - I was wondering what that white tail was - thank you. So, pressure in the float chamber forces the fuel up the jet (cartridge) into the throat where it gets sucked into the cylinder by the turning over of the engine.

I was a bit confused because I've mostly worked on L Heads where clearances are specd differently - inlet/exhaust - from what I could see for other OHVs they seemed to be set to the same? 

Thank you

Can't seem to find any valve clearance specs (OHV) or service manuals for these newish Briggs lawnmower engines. Any help / tips appreciated. Difficult to start because primer not doing its job - pulled it out & white ring badly distorted so I guess it wasn't making the seal needed? New bulb & ring ordered.  (Fires first time with a squirt into the carb directly so am assuming the distorted plastic ring was breaking the air seal needed to suck fuel?)