ihatesaws

Thanks for the reply, spud. The saw is idling. I'm not spraying carburetor cleaner into the carburetor through the venturi opening. I'm spraying it around the outside where the boot meets the carburetor. As there is an air leak it sucks in the carburetor cleaner instead of air which changes the fuel/air mixture going into the cylinder.The mixture is now too rich and the saw dies. I did the vacuum and pressure tests with a piece of rubber wedged between the carburetor and the boot. Once I get the nut off the collar screw I will try to put the piece of rubber behind the carburetor. I don't know anything about end floats of the crankshaft. The flywheel is still on the saw and I've never taken it off. After the saw passed the vacuum and pressure tests I had no desire to take it apart any further as it's unfamiliar territory. It took me ages to even figure out how to get off the old cylinder before I realised that the holes going down through the cooling fins weren't there for decoration but for a T27 screwdriver which I didn't have. I was wondering how I could come in diagonally from the side with a socket wrench. I've done a fair bit of cutting with the saw and the new cylinder. I've not noticed any problem restarting when warm. It is a shiny cylinder and piston. Doesn't that mean it's nikasil coated and therefore okay quality? I'm using this impulse hose Impulsschlauch passend für Stihl 024 024AV AV MS240 MS 240, 4,95 € - SÄGENspezi I don't think there is any length problem. It is not very easy to install though. I stick it through the hole in the tank housing, loosen the three screws in the antivibration mounts so I can get a bit of extra space to stick in some pliers and coax the hose onto the nipple sticking out of the crankcase. In fact the impulse connector on the carburetor fits so well into the impulse hose that when I pull the carburetor off the collar screws the hose comes with it and I have to hold it in position when I pull the carburetor back. Do you use a torque wrench for tightening nuts and screws on saws? Is there one you'd recommend? I'll post back as soon as I get the damn nut off. >>>>Life is tough but it's tougher when you're stupid Don't I know it!

Hi I'm looking for help from anyone with experience with stihl 024/026.I have a 024, a 024 super and a ms290. The latter is heavy and I prefer to use the 024 for most jobs. The original piston and cylinder got scored. Given what I know now I think it was probably an air leak in the impulse hose that caused to saw to run lean as the old hose was in terrible condition when I replaced it. I installed a non oem cylinder kit. It has 120psi compression. Since then I bought the 024 super on ebay which has a compression of 170psi so with hindsight I should have just bought an old saw in good condition rather than repairing the first one. Both run fine at WOT and am happy with how they cut. I can get them to idle at the recommended 2500rpm or thereabouts. In practice with a saw that is tuned properly how much should the rpm fluctuate about this value? Is +/-100 okay, +/-200, +/-300? I'll focus on the 024 as I've not looked at the 024S recently although it demonstrated the same behaviour as the 024, though to a lesser degree. There is still an air leak. If I lift the saw off the ground or turn it on one side the rpm increases by several hundred rpm. If I remove the airfilter and spray carburetor cleaner through a tube over or under the carburetor so it comes out at the front where the carburetor meets the rubber boot from the cylinder the saw dies immediately. I am pulling my hair out because no matter what I do I can't seal between the boot and the carburetor. I don't think there are any other air leaks as I've pressure and vacuum tested both saws to +/- 0.5bar while turning the crankshaft without finding any leaks. Problem exists with new impulse hose, fuel hose and a different carburetor. The rubber boot from the cylinder has a metal insert and a steel washer on the outside. Here is an image with the parts: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqFHJEoE88d-iMCKBP,PMdhHzg~~60_35.JPG All parts looked a bit worn so I got a new boot which had a new washer and insert. I thought maybe air was leaking in around the collar screws as they are officially called (the two studs that stick out of the tank housing through which the carburetor is fixed). I had previously tried putting hylomar gasket sealant in this area between the washer and the carburetor with no effect. Anyway the new boot and parts didn't have any effect either. I've even replaced the two collar screws. I have the feeling I am not able to squeeze the carburetor tight enough up against the boot to seal it. When tightening the M5 nuts on the collar screws I wasn't getting the impression that it was getting harder to tighten themt.I might have over tightened at some stage and the threads on the screws or the nuts got stripped. I would turn and turn but the nut would not progress anymore. The nuts do on occasion seem to eat into the back of the carburetor metal causing small shavings to come off . Unlike the ms290 there is no washer plate between the back of the carburetor and the nuts to protect the carburetor. So I got new collar screws and got new M5 nuts from a hardware store. I bought a 1/4" drive torque wrench so I could tighten to 3.5Nm as recommended in the manual but I didn't know anything about torque wrenches so I bought one with a range from 2 to 20Nm. I've been reading since that they are not reliable at the bottom or top of the range . I tried using it anyway but didn't hear it click tightening the nuts.I got the nuts reasonably tight and tested the saw again with no change in its behaviour. I tightened the nuts some more, got one very tight and then tried the other but instead of getting tighter it got looser. It is now stuck on the collar screw and am unable to get it off. I think the threads in the nut are damaged. 3.5Nm or 31 inch lb isn't very much, is it? I never used to tighten the nuts very tightly on the ms290 and didn't have any problem but there there was always the sensation with that saw that the more you tightened the harder it became to tighten but this is not always so with the 024 . I will eventually get the nut off or cut it off but don't know what to try next. I'd appreciate someone to put me out of my misery.