ihatesaws

Other experts say that you can ruin your cylinder with acid and if you manage to go through your plating with sandpaper then it was rubbish anyway. I tried some more caustic soda on the line to the right of the exhaust port but it doesn't seem to do anything. The black area under the exhaust can't be felt. Out of curiosity I put the chinese cylinder on the meteor piston to see what compression I'd get and it's 140psi as well. I'd say the gauge is right because the super is 170psi on the gauge and I can feel alot more resistance from its starter cord. I figured that if the damaged oem cylinder is going to wear the piston and the rings then I might as well use the chinese cylinder as there is no damage in that. It's practically unused. Anyway the saw is going again. It's idling and it's cutting although with maybe a little less power that with the oem. Not sure yet. Will have to run it for a while and see how it is when it's hot.

I've attached another one. I've gone through the plating in the spot on the left but I'll keep sanding on the right. The piston seemed tight enough but what do I know? The piston felt tight.

I installed the meteor piston into the oem cylinder. I got a compression reading of 140psi. I ran the saw for around ten minutes, cutting small bits and pieces and leaving it idle. It was definitely more powerful than before and the idle with the wte1 carb seemed acceptable. Before testing any further I took off the exhaust to look at the piston and there seems to be vertical lines worn through the machining marks. I took off the cylinder and it seems to have more damage than when I put it back on. There is a vertical line to the right of the exhaust port and a small round chip to the left that i can feel with my finger nail. I've sanded the area again and this is how it looks now. The compression was still 140psi after running it btw before taking it apart. There is some stuff on the roof of the cylinder and in the ports that I can't reach to clean out. Any tips?

I'm not worried about the oil tank but the same paint loss is around and underneath the crank so bits of paint will be coming up inside the cylinder. I can fill it with white spirits alright but I don't think I should be throwing nuts down there. What are they supposed to do, bang against the paint and knock off loose stuff?

On the carb tuning my idle was high as I started with a high idle to be sure it would start. I found the stihl tuning guide which says to adjust idle screw to 3300 and then adjust L to find the maximum revs. If you go over 3700 adjust idle back to 3300 and continue search. Then at the end reduce idle to 3300 and richen L to the recommendation, in this case 2500. I read in forums that 024 and 026 have trouble with fuel puddling and it's better not to set the idle too rich and they all fluctuate quite a bit so it's better to keep a higher idle to compensate for that. So I just set it to around 3000 at the end and that worked pretty well, at least initially. I put a new metering diaphragm and gasket from a k10-wat kit into the WTE1. This has a 3mm nipple and the carb worked better than before. I removed the limiter cap on the H screw to get the revs down low enough. I ran maybe a tank or a tank and a half through the super with the wte1 over the past few weeks. My overall impression was that when cold the idle was 2500-3000 and pretty stable. WOT was around 11000rpm. When the saw got hot WOT was going over 13000rpm and when the saw went back to idle it tended to idle more at around 3500 but pretty stable still. A clear sign of an air leak I thought so I pressure tested the saw again while hot but couldn't detect anything. Took off clutch and oil pump and sprayed fuel on clutch seal but no change in rpm. I had the flywheel off earlier in the year and that seal looked good as well. I tried releasing gas from a map torch around the saw but couldn't change rpm except at air filter. I let saw cool down but it wouldn't behave itself while cold then either. Tried it another day then and it was alright for a while again. Today after heating up a bit the wot rpm was over 13000 but when it came back to idle the idle began to sink till it died so that doesn't indicate an air leak. Anyway I'm going to park the super for a while. I've ordered the meteor piston for the 024. I cleaned up the original cylinder. I don't think there was any aluminium transfer as there were no white patches and when i put in sodium hydroxide there was no fizzing. I then sanded it a bit with my finger and there is a bit of blackness here and there but I can't feel anything. I just took off the cylinder and I see that the paint is half gone inside the crankcase. That will continue to flake off. The oil tank was a real mess with paint when I split it the first time. Should I split it again and remove all the paint? Also when I put in a new crankcase gasket I didn't use any sealant as I had enough bits to juggle putting the case back together again but should I use some?

Thanks. I'll have to digest all of that and think about it. On the nipple I'm just measuring the length of the nipple with calliper jaws touching both ends. The WT bowl is deeper with a corresponding longer protrusion on the WT gauge compared to the WTE bowl and gauge so I thought that would explain why the WT nipple is 3mm and the WTE one that I got is only 2mm. It has a shorter distance to go down into the bowl to reach the lever. The 2mm diaphragm must be the right one as it was well used and stuck to the gasket which was stuck to the carb body so it must have worked.

I put the modified tank housing on the 024S and didn't have much luck with the wte1. When you said the nipple should be the long one do you mean the 3mm WT one? I put a carb kit on the wt194 and this is the closest I can get to a working saw. The L screw seems very sensitive. I have to nudge it a tiny bit richer from time to time to keep the rpm down. On tuning the L screw when I turn it in from 1 1/4 turns out to find the max revs it starts to take off at around 1 turn out without any sign of a drop in rpm, 4000,5000 etc and then I lose my nerve and back the screw out again. Should I be braver? I do notice that when I take the fuel hose off the carb on the ms290 fuel spurts out of the hose everywhere. The tanks on the 024's don't seem to build any pressure. Is that of any relevance?

I wrote a summary in the last page so you don't have to read eight pages. The nipple is 2mm in length while a WT diaphragm nipple is 3mm. Is the carb body B in the picture? Does this mean the lever should line up with B? The correct tool would seem to put the lever 0.7mm below B.

The gauge is shown here: https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/proper-metering-height-walbro-wte-carb.346658/ If I put a straight edge on the flat part of the carb where the metering gasket contacts and stick in a 0.7mm feeler gauge such that one side touches the straight edge and the other the metering lever will that be okay? At the moment the lever looks a bit low.

The adventure continues. I thought this video had some good tips on carburetor fault finding: https://youtu.be/_4K6dBQTeek In particular the throttle butterfly was not in the correct position on the wt-194. Earlier in the thread I tested if air was entering through the throttle shaft and if I could block it. I set it correctly but it didn't make the saw work any better. I thought that a defective check valve allowing air into metering chamber would produce an irregular idle but my check valve holds a vacuum successfully. I finally got the second hand WTE-1. The compensator lid was easily swapped with a WT lid. The WTE however has a big chunk of metal around the H screw which prevents the carb from sliding into the tank housing. I spent quite some time with a dremel grinding away plastic so that it would fit. I then had to enlarge the holes in the plastic for both L and H screws so that I could adjust them. I just tested it on the 024 sofar. If I want to do it on the 024S then I'll have to similarly modify its tank housing. The saw started on half-throttle and I could rev it up but releasing the throttle it died immediately regardless of the position of the L screw. It was only when I turned the LA almost completely in that it would idle. I got a max rpm of around 3200 at 1 turn out on the L. I set the L then at 1 1/4 turns out. My overall impression is that the idle is more stable. However I couldn't rev up the saw but very rarely. It wanted to stall when I pressed the throttle most of the time. Then suddenly without changing the H screw it would rev up but not for very long. I'm presuming some kind of fuel restriction issue. I took the carb apart. Gaskets very sticky to remove and I should really put a carb kit into it but they are dear compared to WT kits and not available locally. The pump diaphragm looks okay, the mesh filter looks clean but I'm having trouble removing it to make sure. The metering diaphragm is a bit crackly. I'm soaking it in brake fluid to regenerate it. I don't have the walbro gauge for setting the height of the metering lever for a wte carb. Is there some improvisation? I tried to remove the lever but the screw head was strange or damaged. It's worse now and I think I'll have to cut a slot in it to remove it. Some guy online complained about removing the screw on this carb as well. He said loctite was used.

I have that damage as well. I've put some tape around it. The black wire to the on switch is bare in a patch as well. I got the two plugs working again heating them with a torch and rubbing them with a wire brush. They were fouled with oil? When I assembled the saw I put grease on all the bearings and I coated the inside of the cylinder with oil before putting the piston back in. Could some of that stuff be coming up on to the plugs? They were wet and blackish when I took them out of the 024. After a spell in the ms290 they turn coffee brown.

I bought a used wte-1 from america but it will surely take a while to arrive. I went to start the 024 today but it wouldn't start properly. This is the one with the new spark plug and when I tested it I couldn't get a spark. I put the 024s plug in and the saw started. What could be causing the saw to damage the spark plugs? The coil gap is a bit big at 0.3mm but I can't get it any smaller.

Thanks. Is it that you don't rate tillotson carbs very highly or you just haven't had any experience with the HU-136 in this saw?

Would the compensator lid fit inside the 024 tank housing though? Would a flat plate from a WT carb fit the WTE-1?

I might as well just buy a new ms170 for that money. It would be alright for light jobs.🤔 I have the original cylinder and it doesn't look too bad. I'd have to clean it up and get a meteor piston but I want stability first and then I'll worry about performance.

I stripped down the carbs. I see people online using petrol to clean. It got quite dirty after 5 minutes. Maybe I should have left them in there longer though.

Hi. I'm back. Brace yourselves! I'm giving this a go again after leaving the saws sit in boxes for a decade. I'll give a quick summary of the issues with the saws as you probably don't want to read back over five pages and given the length of time parts that were working may no longer be. First saw is a 024 with a replacement cylinder and piston kit. Its compression is around 110psi. The last thing done to it ten years ago was to replace the crank seals which didn't help to make it idle properly. Saw had been pressure/vacuum tested, all rubber components, tank vent etc tested for leaks, blockages. Second saw is a 024s with original cylinder and compression of 170psi. This was not idling properly either. Passed pressure/vacuum test.All hoses etc fine. Carbs available for testing: a chinese noname thing I bought cheaply in 2017 and had never tried out a wt194 that was new a decade ago a wt22b that has corroded a bit. I thought if I could just get the 024s going I'd be happy as that is quite powerful. I pressure tested it again and put the chinese carb on it. I got it to run at 1.5-2 on the L and around 2 on the H screw. I cut with it for about 15-20 minutes and it was idling okay but I think the next time I went to use it I had to adjust the carb again. I tried the wt194 on it as well and generally with both carbs it's a case of having to richen up the mixture slightly after a while to keep the revs down at idle. Tilting the saw downwards can cause the revs to drop as well. I was wondering what to try next or was there anything left to try. I was looking at the crankcase gasket on both saws and underneath the muffler there was not alot to be seen. There is no aluminium heat shield so I wondered whether the heat might have damaged it. I thought it would be better to split the 024 first as I would prefer to damage that and I could learn from any mistake if I had to do it again with the 024s. So I split the 024. There seemed to be only the colour of the gasket left around the front of the oil tank but I think there was some of it still left to seal the crank. I had to cut off what was left. The saw now has new bearings, new crank seals, a new crankcase gasket and a new cylinder gasket. It has some aluminium underneath the muffler that came in a kit. The saw would fire and wouldn't then start or if it did start it would die quickly. I pressure/vacuum tested it but it passed. The bloody spark plug would spark fine if you tested it by pressing it against the cylinder and pulling but when you tried to start it if was only firing once and then no more. I only found this out when I tested both the coils and plugs from the two saws in an ms290. It ran normally except with the plug from the 024. So new plug in 024 now and I can be sure that that and the coil are working properly. With the chinese carb it runs at around 1 3/4 turns on the L but I had to keep adjusting the L richer to keep the idle down. I put the wt194 on it and I turned in the idle screw so the saw would idle. Turning the L screw in I got max revs of around 3700 at 1 turn out. I turned the screw back to 1 1/8 turns out and turned the idle screw out to get the revs down to 2500. I set the H to max out at around 12k. The max allowed is 13k. The saw will start and idle on this setting. I can cut and the saw comes back to idle so everything seems fine but after a while the idle will begin to stay higher so it can occur that the L screw goes out to 1 1/4 or even to 1 3/8 turns out. The saw won't start on that setting though and I have to turn it back in to 1 1/8 and then it starts and idles. I don't have any carb that I know for sure is working properly. There is a guy tinman on youtube and he describes chinese carbs as being able to imitate an air leak. They won't hold the adjustment. Some carbs are fine and some are not. This wouldn't explain the wt194 acting up though. The wt194 and wt22b have spent 5 minutes in a jar of petrol in an ultrasonic cleaner at 50 degrees C. For how long would you normally clean a carb? The metering diaphragm on the wt194 didn't look the best so I put one from a cheap chinese carb kit into it. I see online I can get a new genuine tillotson carb for €60 and a new better quality carb kit for the wt194. I am tempted. On carb kits there seems to be a k10wat recommended for the 22b and a k20wat recommended for the 194. Is there any difference in thickness between the metering gasket supplied in these two kits? Is a tillotson carb hu-136a more/less reliable, more/less easy to adjust than a walbro? So I seem to have similar issues with multiple saws and multiple carbs. The only conclusion I can draw from this is that the problem is with the fellow adjusting them.

That's great info. That file is new. It never did any work. It just sat there for years rusting. I just need to file the rust off 😏. If I get the saw running well I'll invest in a new file. It will be some meditation exercise if I have to take that much off all the teeth.

Hi all, I decided to resurrect a 024 saw which I left in pieces for ten years. I found two rusty chains. I sharpened both and filed down the rakers. The first three images show the bad chain which barely cuts and the last two the good chain which cuts great. I know they are not the same design of chain but there must be more to it than that???? Thanks

Better the devil I know or in this case the boat anchor! I think the pump is probably working fine and will do better now that the tank vent is open and won't have to fight the vacuum. I've been reading and this SAE50 oil should have a viscosity of around 200 cSt. I'm going to buy some oil with a value of 100. I'll thin the sae50 stuff as well by maybe 20 or 30% diesel.

I cut off the stop for the control bolt with a hacksaw allowing it to be adjusted beyond maximum. This allows for a longer stroke of the pump piston. It is pumping more oil now and while the chain is not very wet there is a thin film of oil on the drive links. I will also try thinner oil in future. That bio oil I used to use before was mixed with 4 parts water and looked and flowed like milk while this sae50 oil I'm using now is like honey. From what i've read online the saws are designed to oil badly to comply with environmental legislation.

Is Spud on holidays? The oil tank vent was blocked with the bio oil that had blocked everything originally. I was able to draw a vacuum from the oil tank. I cleaned the vent and the oil flows better now but I don't think it's enough. I feel the chain is much too dry still and the level of oil in the tank sinks very slowly.

Bought a carlton bar and chain kit for €60 locally. Guy said that stihl bar is probably better but if lubrication isn't adequate any bar will wear out quickly. Put bar on saw and area around bar is much cleaner now as oil must be taking sawdust away. Warmed saw up and even mixed 10% diesel with SAE50 chain oil and put tip in front of timber and I could slowly see a line of oil being flung off the chain. This is not enough however as chain got very hot after cutting for a while and oil in tank was not really going down. I took off bar and ran saw. Oil was coming out the hole on saw as usual but then it seemed to stop. Can the oil pump be worn and not pump all the time or without enough pressure? There are instructions in the stihl manual for disassembling the pump for cleaning, Is this worth trying or should I just get a new pump? There are no blockages in the tank or hose as I can suck oil through from the tank by attaching vacuum pump to hose where it connects to oil pump.

Thanks but the bar seems well worn in general. It's probably the original bar that came with the saw in 2002. It overheated alot in the past due to no oil when I knew even less than I know now. The groove gap looks like 2mm rather than the 1.6mm it should be which accounts for the wobble from side to side. I'd need a machine to squeeze it back together and the rails might not be parallel afterwards. I think I should just get a new bar. I see some cheaper brands for €20-30 but the stihl bar costs €50.

I had a look at the 18" stihl rollomatic 3003 000 6117 bar on the saw and on the bottom the rails are definitely rounded over and mushrooming out so I suppose I need a new bar. Are there cheaper bars than stihl that are any good? I suppose I need a new chain as well.