Farmwood

Thanks for the info and sharing your experiences, its very helpful. I did think about a grab/shear for the 360, but I know from experience that sometimes the stuff is very brashy and didn't want to end up spending days with the chainsaw.. if there was an easier option (less manual!) I did look at the Kelfri website as Conor had mentioned they do a Stroke and they have the basic unit for about 6k, its not built like a tank but for all the tonnage we do it may worth getting the 360 to cut and drag and then load them onto the Stroke mounted on the 3 point linkage of the tractor for brashing and logging? Or buy Conors if its for sale!!

That looks like something worth pursuing , thanks very much Conor. Have you much experience in them, good/bad- ones to avoid! I think I could adapt that onto a 360 as all the pipework and electrics are already harnessed and the control box already attached, just fabricate a mount and couple the hydraulics to the hammer line, not sure about switching the bench from the grab, may need a valve block in there somewhere.. will need to study one closer.. Any idea how many spools needed usually, two pairs of double acting I expect? As you say time isn't the driver more convenience and cost

Getting a contractor in our area would be an issue and I expect and they would want to clear them all in one go which isn’t ideal as I only use about 60t per annum, so I thought we could pick away at them and let them season as we needed them Other idea maybe a shear and the chainsaw for snedding...

I am thinking about the economics of fitting a second hand harvesting head to our 14t excavator. We have several small blocks of mature Sitka and Lodgepole shelter belts that are ready for clearfell, with a view to chipping the wood for our own use. Could a second hander off some of the Forest Enterprise harvesters that get auctioned off be adapted? My concern would be oil flow /temp and getting the controller rigged up. Anyone familiar with this sort of adaption, any help would be appreciated

Thanks guys. Plenty of ideas now. The Farmi second hand units look like they could work financially, which Is even better! Would I be better going for a bigger size up if I'm chipping mainly at the top end of its capacity or do you think with the quantity I'm doing it shouldn't be an issue. Sent from my iPad using Arbtalk

Will do thanks

I am buying in seasoned logs from Tilhill by the arctic load and also using some of our own windblown timber. Its all Sitka and Lodgepole, but size can sometimes be an issue.

I fully understand the economics Tom D, but being pretty remote here means there is always a cost and hassle factor getting things done, sometimes it's as well to have the flexibility to do it yourself. I think Grey git is on my train of thought, I'm pretty sure it's a bigger and older version of your suggestion my current contractor has but difficult to tell as the decals are all rubbed off. Am I right in thinking the 170 is 17cm max diameter? Sent from my iPad using Arbtalk

Suggestions appreciated... I am looking for a secondhand chipper that won't break the bank to chip about 100t softwood a year for my own boiler. PTO driven up to 170/180hp, up to 12" logs Any ideas please? Sent from my iPad using Arbtalk

Has any one got a plough they want to sell. Preferably single furrow reversible trailed type that could be used for agricultural use. Can modify/repair if necessary

I would like to thank Rover for your post as it is very helpful. Also could I trouble you Renewable John regarding the contact for the solar drying you mentioned

I have not heard of this method Marlin but its an OOouch from where I am standing! I think I am in the same taxi as Renewable John

It is all lodgepole pine that has shot the Xmas tree market. I intend to install a 40 or 50kw chip boiler for the house pretty soon, so will need the equivalent of 10Tons of pellets which I calculate to be around 70 to 80 cube of chip per annum. I have enough storage for around two years of chip so would like to chip it all in oner. As mentioned trouble is getting the stuff dry enough to store, I tried sour felling and ring barking but the moisture drop in 8 months is next to negligible as it wont stop raining! The only good thing is the needle drop for all that is worth. I am open to options as it will be a long term investment so may have to spend a bit to dry it, as it seems daft going out and buying chips in when I have 200 odd acre staring at me!

The heating and the mould will be a big problem right enough. I just thought with the wet weather being more the norm these days some one may be doing this. I dont even know if layering it between pallets in the heap would be enough at that moisture, it may need some forced ventillation of some description

Anyone any ideas how to season and store softwood woodchip that is chipped fresh 80/90%, in 100/125 cube pile to season to 25/30%

weapon of destruction!

You are now talking my language, can I take a wee peek at this w.o.d.

The guy from Glen Lyon was using the inj on Spruce, presumably Sitka. Do you think they were perhaps a bit 'belt and braces' or maybe reading the guide book word for word!?

I am interested in the injection that the report refers to and what exactly is used. Maybe it is intended to buck nature so the timing of the ringing is less relevant perhaps. I would prefer to stick to nature if at all possible and indeed would be interested if anyone could assist on your query also.

I am not really buying any kit other than the boiler which I will have to buy to be eligible for RHI. I have a chipper which I can hire (possibly scrounge) for a day or two as long as it will chip Ok for the boiler auger system and the the rest of the gear is pretty much on farm for whatever job req. As I said earlier the logs aint really going to be up to much, as the entire sticks will be at best 6" bottom to 1" top and only 3m long. This is why I thought best to chip the whole thing, as the tree itself excluding the needles is basically thick brash.

Glenlyon Woodfuel Initiative: Ring barking and Sour felling- Let transpiration dry your wood. I have come across this if anyone else is interested

Sorry for the delay in coming back on again, I have been away at the Highland Show for a few (wet) days. I think I have the idea of it now. I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to the post as you have been very helpful.

That sounds a damn good idea:thumbup1:. Any chance you could share your wisdom with me on this technique:001_rolleyes: You say a felling head can you explain what that is. Is it a hydraulic cutter head for a 360. What model of heizohack do you use and could you recommend a model that would suit this job. In your experience, once you have ring barked them how long on average is it before they are harvestable:thumbup:

My initial thoughts were to keep the system as simple as possible which in my farming experience means handling a product as least as possible. I liked the wholetree chipping because: 1. It would keep the forest floor tidy as the areas are rented out for deer stalking and for future operations. 2.I would like to replant an ongoing Xmas tree rotation. 3.Some areas might qualify for native restocking grants etc 4.No waste and possibly the return of some fertility in the needle loss The majority of the trees are between 3 and 6" diameter currently, and to brash them for logs would probably need a more than fair share of chainsaw oil and 2 stroke per volume of wood collected and someone that is getting paid from the neck up is always harder to find. I thought (hoped) Trees down In with chipper when needles dropped Tractor and winch, tie up a bundle and drag to chipper Chipper filling trailer Dozen loads back to farm Bucket chips into auger bunker Warm house! Pluses: I have all the tackle and manpower to do it all except the chipper 2 maybe 3 days would see the job done Minuses: Variable fuel in both energy and composition The need for constant monitoring nearer chipping date, which itself could be different by several months dependant on season. Getting the chip out of the forest with excisting gear if the chip date constantly falls during winter Has anyone any cheap oil to sell:biggrin:

I know in the past as in the early years we used to harvest the bonnier ones for xmas trees and anything that the gang missed had the needles missing by the following year as you would come across them through the blocks. I guess the knack is getting into the forest when the moisture is right and before they would start to rot. Problem I see is the side sitting in the heather would be damp and the upper side that suffers the exposure may be past it, hence the question about the chipper as I didnt want to spend all winter untangling the stuff out of the auger and then finding a boiler that could cope with the variables of the stuff. Volume is not a problem here, it is just getting it to work!