Mark_Skyland

Ive never seen a piston with that type of damage before. As suggested it looks like a plug fault/ timing issue due to the damage on the crown and intake side of the piston. Any chance something has broken away and been sucked into the engine?

Mixed feedback on the 2 in 1, some people love them and some hate them. 

It doesnt look like you have a Stihl chain, apologise if it is, but I know that they dont work so well on other branded chains from customer feedback which is that they take the rakers down too much. 

I have never used one myself so im not sure if too much downward pressure would cause the issue but I imagine that it would.

The other thing that has just occurred to me is that if the chain needs a good grind back then once the first tooth is taken back quite a bit it may be lowering the flat file a bit too much while sharpening the second tooth. If that makes any sense.

As ADW says it could be a mismatch. Post a pic of the worm wheel showing a top down view and the drum showing the part that locates into the worm wheel.

You can see the differences in the drum here

On 30/03/2024 at 08:10, Botty Cough said:

Manual is available online.

They certainly look like you may as well chuck em away when they break down.

Same old same old with new kit these days .... It's generally disposable 

They arent that bad. My customer has basically done nothing to the machine but fuel it up for the last 3/4 years, so its not that bad considering. The cost of some parts has risen to silly levels so if you neglect a machine it can soon start to add up. Machines these days do need a bit more TLC but an air filter, tank clean and a general making sure all bolts and nuts are tight makes a huge difference.

I have one n bits atm as it needs a new piston and cylinder. They arent the most straight forward of machines to strip down so take plenty of pics and if you need a workshop manual give me a shout.

 I presume that its the crank bearing that is shot and not the clutch bearing. If so I haven't seen or heard of any 500I's with that issue.

Its going to be a costly repair but if the rest of the machine is OK then I think that its worth repairing it.

If its new as in its been purchased within the last 12 months then it should be covered under warranty. I know the 880 has been out of production for quite a while but it doesn't matter if it was purchased recently from a dealer.

Its a strange one as coils very rarely fail and I would be surprised if a new OEM one was faulty from the start. If the flywheel magnets are good and they almost never fail then it must be a bad coil if the cylinder has continuity to the coil mounts, although I don't see how that is possible tbh.

Not many people have a spare 880 to hand but if someone you know does, this is the time to ask for a favour. Swap the parts out until you find out which one is not working

It looks like the 880 has a couple of options as they have changed the coil and flywheel so its possible that you dont have a matching pair. But, if it fits then I would at least expect a spark.

This is a parts diagram, it may help with understanding how the bottom end is put together.

MS150.pdf

That's really impressive. Going from nothing to producing a piece of working kit in 3 days is brilliant. 👍

I can see 3D printing being the future for part suppliers, no need to wait for something to come into stock an get shipped, pay and download a file then print it out.

Would it be possible to 3D print something like say a fuel tank or a chain brake handle?

7 minutes ago, spudulike said:

So the Stihl AT software isn't quite as good as the OBD2 port on your car then

 I took a look at the IPL again and the generator was for the heated handles - I thought it strange as the Stihl AT machines I have worked on have used two magnets on the flywheel to generate the AT power.

Lets hope it is the coil, I hate it when you have to resort to swapping out parts like you have had to, I much prefer a charred fooked up part that is definitely causing the issue.

I haven't had a lot of time on the diagnostic kit but I can certainly think of plenty of other things that I could spend £500 on!

Yep, I don't like swapping out parts when I'm not sure that its causing the issue, it will be nice £80 hit for me if I'm wrong. If the coil doesn't work then I'm swapping the carb, if that doesn't work then, well I'll cross that bridge when I get there. 

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I ruled out bad fuel as he only uses decent two stroke and it was the same fuel when it was running well in the workshop. 

I've checked all the wiring and connectors, no issues. I even tried wiggling and poking all the wires while it was running.

No generator Spud, just the coil which I've replaced today going out well since the issue. I was logging some timber with it for about 15 mins and it ran well.

The Stihl diagnostics is a lot different than the husqvarna setup. It doesn't record faults or show the carb settings. It basically checks the electrics then you can run it up while still connected and it performs a re calibration and does a couple of other checks.

I had it plugged into a ms500i that wont start, it' came up with no faults on that one too. 😀

Well I've hit a brick wall with this one. A dreaded intermittent fault. The machine is less than a year old and only has a round 6 hours of use.

Basically the saws runs really strong but all of a sudden it will run like the choke is on, overfueling, spluttering and wont idle. It can then after a couple of starts and a bit of a rev run fine.

First off changed the spark plug, solenoid, performed a reset along with a tank, filter clean etc which I thought fixed it as it ran good for me but then failed again with customer. Next time around it was a carb carb inspection, vac/pressure test, fuel line and carb pressure test, loads of compression but I did pull the exhaust to find nothing but a clean looking piston. Checked all wires and connectors HT lead spark plug boot but found nothing. It was running fine and it and I couldn't get it run poorly. Customer took it away and then came back with it a week or so later! It was running well for most of the day he used it but when he got back to the yard to cut up some timber it started playing up again. I had to buy the stihl diagnostics kit and after getting it all set up it came up with no faults as the machine was running fine again.

It has to be the coil or the carb but I thought I would throw this out there in case anyone has a better idea or has seen this issue before.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

1 hour ago, tim361 said:

Are you after the stihl/panther chain or is it to fit the standard echo 1/4 carving bar?
If it’s for the standard echo bar it’s .050 or 1.3mm rather than .043 or 1.1mm which is the stihl chain

The standard echo carving bar comes in .043 or .050 gauge. They look the same, 60dl, 1/4" pitch but the gauge is different.

.043 echo chains are here 

This is a cheaper alternative 

.050 chains are here. 

On 30/12/2023 at 15:08, treevolution said:

What type of grease would you recommend.

 

Thanks 

I haven't used the Husqvarna grease as suggested but stihl recommend their hedge trimmer grease. Only use a tiny bit on all of the contact points. 

Have you tried to richen the low and high needles? Some of the cheap chainsaws run garbage as they are too lean. If the check valve is gone they can't usually be replaced, well not easily and it mainly affects the high speed side or when throttling up, tick over is usually ok.

Good advice from the above.

The clutch springs may be worn or snapped. Take the cover off and check that the drum rotates easily with no resistance if it doesn't turn easily you have something binding it to the shaft, dodgy bearing or cord etc stayed around the shaft. 

Check the three clutch springs are in place and not snapped. Check that the brake band isn't damaged and getting caught in the drum. If everything looks ok then you well have to take the clutch off and check the springs for wear. Replace all three springs even if only one looks damaged or worn.

The clutch can also wear where the springs locate onto it, they start to cut a groove into the clutch resulting in less tension. 

I guess that the chain spins with the chain brake off when the saw is at idle?

I had to replace a motor on 161 under warranty, the magnets had came loose iirc.

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On 28/04/2023 at 19:51, paulmo101 said:

Hi Mark  Had a quick play today, Friday,  Noticed that the High screw was only 1 turn out instead of 2 as per the workshop manual, changed the high to 2 turns out,  set the low to 2.5 turns out, that was pretty close anyway.  Seemed to run a lot better although no wood to cut at the moment.  I reduced the tickover to around 3000 rpm which is a little above the 2900 in the manual but it seems comfortable there.  I checked the high RPM at around 12000 which is a little lower than the 12500 - 13000 in the manual.  I`m happy with that at the moment and I could increase latter after running the saw a bit more.  Need some wood now to put some more fuel through the saw.  Did you get yours running any better ?   Cheers   Paul

Hi Paul

Thanks for the feedback. I set it to factory settings the same as you and it ran well, I leaned the H a little probably only 1/8 of a turn. It was set far too lean from the factory.

There is a small cover missing, we have some in stock here, 

The part number is 11450211701 , your local dealer should be able to get it in which will save you £5 on postage for a £2 item.

On 21/04/2023 at 13:01, paulmo101 said:

Hi Mark    598846901. 5mm 20t  fits the MK2   I got mine from Willis and Grabham  01823 400936   Wellington UK  Cost about £13 Inc postage  Cheers

Thanks for the feedback and the offer. I've got done on order with Husqvarna plus the pacman style screwdriver seems to be doing the job for now. 

How did you get on tuning the saw? 

I'll order some of the new screwdrivers in. I had a quick look today and managed to adjust the carb using a cheapo ebay screwdriver i night as a set, it is a plain round profile with a little lump on one side. I only had a quick run up of the saw which needed a richen on the high screw.

It is now exl, I haven't heard any negative feedback about it tbh. It is still a full chisel profile.

3 hours ago, paulmo101 said:

Run very poorly - cutting out, not ticking over properly and sometimes reluctant to rev.

Thats the same issue I had. Most machines do the above straight out of the box but usually once they have had a few revs and a bit of fuel through the carb they run OK but you do get more than the the odd machine that needs a bit of tuning. 

23 hours ago, adw said:

Try 598846901. 5mm 20t

Thanks. I'll have to order one although Im loath to buy these tools. Bleedin thing should just work straight out of the box.