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Posts posted by wisewood
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Looks ok[emoji106] try it and see. A tad looser won't do any harm either.@wisewood is this loose enough, I've just bought a new Stihl chain to fit my dime bar. And wondering if this is loose enough.
Also do I need to file the backs off the teeth, as the teeth seem to be sloping back anyway
Thanks
In regards to the heels of the cutters, if you set down the saw so that you can manually draw the chain around the tip( like when you're sharpening). If you can butt the tip up to a flat piece of wood at a right angle to the bar. Get your eye level with the tip from the side and see if the heels protrude any more than the cutting edge as they pass around the tip. If they do, file them back [emoji106] -
Thanks, yes if it's not commissioned it's for sale.This is really good. Do you sell them?
Direct message me for sale enquiries please [emoji106] -
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Not sure if they're on this forum but carvers Ian Andrews and Mike Jones both use a lot of echo saws and will no doubt know.Hi got paid in chainsaw at the start of the year, as i did a stump carving outside my local garden machinery shop. I got a new echo 501sx with the idea to use it as my new blocking saw, as up until now I've mainly just been using the 361 wes for most work, a 281 wes for detail and a 620sx for large cuts. although i still haven't worked out if i can stick a quarter pitch bar on it, I asked Rob at chainsawbars, and he said there was a couple that should fit, but didn't know how many drive links id need. Is anyone else using this saw with a carving setup, if so i'd love to know what your using. If not, what does everyone else recommend as a decent 50cc saw for blocking that will take a toonie tip or quarter tip. Thanks for your time.
Charlie
Look them up on Facebook or ask on the fb page Chainsaw carving UK -
Cheers, yes wood dyes and airbrushed acrylic paint.lovely carvings! Are you adding colour? looks great.- 1
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I run mine a bit slacker, this is an r7 tip, bit smaller than a dime tip. You can see the DL drive links fully out of the bar groove/slot.@wisewood it's a Stihl m170, been looking at one for such a long time that I finally got one. Cool, ok, so so you usually use an standard bar to do your bore cutting with?
Couple of drive links, as in the distance from the bar right? -
Cool, depends on what you're trying to achieve with bore cutting. If it's big areas and blocking out then use a standard bar on a bigger saw. If it's small scale the dime bar will be fine.@wisewood it's a Stihl m170, been looking at one for such a long time that I finally got one. Cool, ok, so so you usually use an standard bar to do your bore cutting with?
Couple of drive links, as in the distance from the bar right?
The drive links run in the groove of the bar, if you slacken off the tension until the chain hangs/droops on underside of the bar. If you can see a couple of the drive links in their entirety then that's about right.
One more tip, is to file or grind a couple of mm off the back/rear of each cutter. This will stop the backs of the cutters kicking out as they pass round the narrow bar tip. It will make boring much easier and will avoid any unnecessary wear and tear on both chain and bar [emoji106] -
Congrats on a new saw [emoji108] what have you bought?Hey there.
I haven't had experience in using a dime tip bar yet. But just waiting for my new chainsaw to come in the post with a dime tip bar on it (very excited [emoji16]) Was wondering if they are easier to cut through when you plunge cut into wood, compared to your standard bar?
Also how loose should the chain be on a dime tip bar, heard so.nahybsaybto have it really loose but how loose is loose? 🤣
There's little to no kickback with dime tips so in that sense bore cutting is easier and safer. Having said that, a dime tip is really just for the detailing, any major cutting should still be done with more robust bars.
In regards to chain tension, I would recommend slacken off until you can see at least a couple of drive links under the bar[emoji106] -
You know you want toNo , you can't make me !
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Try googling "World map of chainsaw artists"
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You must have to be a chainsaw carver [emoji12]
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Just shared a world map of chainsaw carvers in a new post, take a look if anyone is nearby to you
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World Map of Chainsaw Artists
WWW.WOODHACKER.COM -
At least 95% is chainsaw [emoji16]very nice, please tell me you didn't do all that with a chainsaw?- 1
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Thanks KhrissFabulouous work. K -
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Out side pieces that are not naturally rot resistant get treated with an anti fungal and boring insect preservative and then oiled. Decking oil is good, osmo uv extra is great but it's really thick and difficult to thin coat.
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Excellent mate, love the rhino
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What part of the country? It is a useful species for chainsaw carving.
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I think for the time being a standard set up on the 46cc would be fine. You could probably switch down to 3/8 lo pro as long as you can get a bar with the correct bar mount configuration for the saw.Sorry yeah 3/8 I meant. Had a bit of a brain fart there. ? It's the standard set up.
Is anything over 35cc to powerful for a dime tip then?
What would be the best set up for the 46cc chainsaw? Just a normal bar?
Also would having a rim socket be better than a spur sprocket when using a 1/4 pitch?
Cheers mate
I'm fairly sure most 1/4 sprockets on 35cc and under are spurs. -
If you're in a position to buy new, chainsawbars on this forum have several complete package options.
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Hi Al,
Do you mean 3/8 chain? Do you know if that's standard or lopro?
In regards to fitting a carving bar, 35cc saw is best for a dime tip bar. You would need to change clutch sprocket to 1/4
Not sure if there's a 1/4 sprocket option for titan, you may have to make one. -
I've carved mini Christmas trees from 1&1/2 - 2" diameter branches.
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Advice for a newbie
in Chainsaw Carving Forum
Posted
That aside, do check out www.chainsawbars.co.uk and if you're on Facebook join some of the chainsaw carving groups ,you'll get plenty of help there.