canoehead

<p>steve, just wanted to say thanks for giving me the heads up about how to sort out my oiler issue with the ms660. managed to source a plastic dog bone, and took everything apart as per, and cleaned it with a can of carb clean i happened to have laying about, couldnt really see much gunk in the duct between the pick up hose and the outlet, but seems to be oiling ok now, not much spray forward of the bar thou, having said that i couldnt tell you how much there used to be. </p>

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<p>anyway thanks very much for helping, i really appreciate it, its another thing i've learnt how to do, and for me that is probably the best thing i could ask for from this forum. there seem to be a number of people on the forum, like yourself, who are tremendously helpful, and full of knowledge worth having, thank you for sharing it.</p>

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<p>rick</p>

<p>hi eddie, have you got any more detailed photos? and have you got any pictures of previous frames? oh and one more and, have you done any arch brace trusses, or crucks? </p>

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<p>thanks rick</p>

<p>thanks steve, will try that. i'm in the middle of portugal in the mountains and getting hold of things usually means having them imported, but there is a stihl dealer not far off, and if i cant do the recoil rope trick i will see if he has the plastic dog bone. thanks again, rick</p>

<p>hi alec,</p>

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<p>dont know if i asked you this already, but what did you cut your lath out of? were they riven out of squared sections you'd sawn? or split out of the round? and what sort of diameter rounds? i am still having trouble getting much out, a lot of waste, probably too many knots, and slight twist in grain doesnt help much. and did you do it with a billhook? or what?</p>

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<p>thanks</p>

<p>rick</p>

<p>hi,</p>

<p>re your advice to remove the clutch assmbly, on my ms660, to sort the oiler problem, just have another issue, dont have special tool no.1 the rubber bung to send down the barrel to stop the piston, any idea if i can use something else (weary of doing the coiled rope trick, and stuffing it thru the exhaust port severing it and scoring the barrel on start up. or are there really no alternatives? thanks rick</p>

similarly, i'm fairly keen to saw all my own shingles, its affordable and do-able, but appropriate for me as a woodsman and carpenter, and in keeping with the design of the house. we are trying to be self sufficient here, and i see manufacturing the house, as much of it as i possibly can as part and parcel of that process. i'm going to need more than 3500 shingles and i can't imagine cleaving them all, there has to be a more efficient way, namely sawing. having read that post someone else posted about shingles in the US i know there's no need for them to be gnarly and cleft to be waterproof. i would rather spend a couple of hundred quid on sawing my own roofing cover than over a grand on slate. i'm not trying to be cheap, although every penny counts right now, but resourceful, which is essential if you're trying to be self sufficient. i've seen shingle roofs in the states and canada and always wanted to do one. now seems the right time. how are you getting on with yours?

hi chris, wondered what conclusion you came to re sawing shingles? i'm trying to do essentially the same thing. build a timber frame post and beam house with my own timber. and as much of it in timber as i can/is appropriate. i bought a logosol M5 for that very reason. it has its up sides and downsides too. it needed a bigger saw than the one i started out with aswell. logosol recommend the stihl ms660 as a minimum. i had a husky 575xp, and it was okay on yellow pine, but not powerful enough on large lumps of hardwood, it ended up kerfing the cut too frequently. probably not helped by not having a support on the bar tip, a design flaw they now seem to be addressing. this isn't a problem with the stihl (i ended up buying one off ebay 2nd hand - one of the best things i've ever done, when the husky had 2 piston seizures one after the other) the stihl runs with the same bar as for cross cutting a 3/8ths pitch and the chain is a 75rd rip.