IRONJACK

Like I said, NO hurry, IF your in the area, I'll do the work, you sit and watch. Circa £50 is not unreasonable.

Update: Fitted the new fuel pipe this arvo, (very fiddley) now running sweet as nut, very happy. Thanks again spud! I've set the carb screws to 1 full turn out each. Seems fine to an untrained ear, little puff of white smoke on reaching full revs, is this ok? Any basic tuning tips?

Got a large pile of brash in my Dads front garden, Church lane, Bishampton. Nothing in there over 3". Can't see it taking a commercial chipper more than an hour. (I'd love to help) Chips to be taken away. Is £50 fair? No massive hurry but within the next few weeks if your in the area?

Cool, cheers mate. Thanks again!

So the moral of the story is... Red wine and carb rebuilds don't mix! Thank you Arbtalk! And most of all thank you spudulike! Or should I say the saw whisperer?! I can believe you got the problem without even seeing the saw and just from a brief description. Your unreal mate! So it was the pumping membrane and spacer the wrong way round all along, no damage done. And the other great news, I found the leak! It was the cracked fuel line after all. 1 more question spud, where do you buy your spares? Locally or on line? Many thanks again to everyone who chipped in!

Welch plugs? The little metal domes? Didn't touch them, should I? So I might have destroyed it with the airline?

The gauze filter was spotless but I changed it anyway, as the carb kit had a spare.

I'm pretty sure the spacer and membrane are the way described, but you've planted a seed of doubt so I'll check tomorrow.

So start by replacing the cracked fuel line? With these symptoms, is it possible I've inadvertently blown (with the airline) some cack deep into the carb body? I didn't touch the inner valves, but have spares that came with the carb kit. As they're metal and saw has done little work I thought replacing them would be pointless, and tricky. Should I swap them out?

I'm not worried about the leaking fuel, it's VERY slow and I'll just empty the tank when I'm finished with it. If the fuel was flooding the crank case, wouldn't I have had the same problem before my masterful service? It's been leaking fuel since I've had it, but the issues started after I dicked about with carb. I'm pretty certain the new membranes and gaskets went on the right way round.

I have a 2002 MS250 that's probably done 20 hours from new. It lived in my Mums garage for years getting dusty. I've used it on several occasions now and it's been solid, apart from sometimes stalling when cold at idle. I was using it on Wednesday and after 10-15 mins it started cutting out and stalling at high revs, after a few more minutes it wouldn't start at all. After successfully changing the membranes on a 200T carb, I decided to get a carb kit and set to it. While taking it apart the following day, I went to take the plug out (to replace it) only to discover it was very loose. As I already had the carb off I thought it would still benefit from a service, so I took it to my local garage to borrow an airline to blow it out on the way GHS to get the new plug and carb kit. I also took the opportunity to give the saw a good blow out. Once home, I changed the membranes and put the saw back together. Now it won't run properly. Symptoms; 1 pull on full choke - will give the normal fire and die. 3 pulls on half choke - fires, revs up to about 75% then stalls. 10K+ pulls on no choke occasionally produces a stutter, lots swearing and a very sore arm! Other info; It slowly leaks fuel, 1/2 a tank over 3 days, but I can't see where from. (I think it must be ninja fuel) The fuel line is a bit cracked but doesn't appear to be breached. The fuel is actually fresh, with precisely mixed Stihl 2 stroke oil. Since the amazing service I gave it, it has reved up fully and it ran well for around 90 seconds ish. I did put a new, correct plug in it. The carb was still at factory settings, I measured screwing them in 1 full turn each, then tried them screwed out 3/4 turn each but same symptoms. They are now back at 1 full out. The idle screw has been tried in numerous positions, but I think it about where it should be now. I took off some plastic and rubber parts and soaked them in washing up liquid. I cleaned and dried them thoroughly. Whilst starting this thread I had a brainwave, perhaps the breather pipe and/or valve was blocked with water and was creating a vacuum in the tank? So I went outside and pulled it off the tank. My arm is sore again, and the symptoms are consistent with yesterdays. I'm sure if I'd just replaced or even just tightened up the plug it would be running fine now. Anyone seen anything like this before? Or have any bright ideas? Many thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Cheers Tom!

Are dogs aloud?

Going to the Arb fair at Cirencester tomorrow and just wondered if it's ok to take the hound?

Angle grinder worked a treat. Went slow and only took a tiny amount off, a took care to retain original shape. Very sharp now. Really could do with tree gaffs though. Where is cheapest? Had a quote for £53 so far...

I'm just about to have a go at a pair of dull Klein pole gaffs. Going to 'carefully' use a 4' angle grinder with a sanding pad.

Many thanks to Mike and Charlie for a days forestry experience in the woods today. Very enjoyable and fun. See you both soon.

Wow, really? No one interested in free help? Any advise then? Anyone?!

I'm very interested in getting into the business and have been strongly advised to spend some time working with a season pro. So, I live in Worcester, I'm free most Wednesdays and Thursdays. I've got my own transport and some kit. Anyone interested in free labour?

Thanks again. Decided to go it alone last night. Taking the carb off was easier than I thought! (thanks to a handy YouTube video) I took off the 2 sides to inspect and the fuel filter was clean as a whistle. The membranes were both intact with clean seals, a little baggy, but without new ones to compare to they looked ok to me. The fuel filter in the tank was also clean, so I'm stumped. Any ideas?

Many thanks for all the advice guys. There is a seller on eBay that will repair a carb of said problem, set it up on a working saw and post it back for £25. Does that sound reasonable? Does anyone know who it is? Are they on here? I probably could do it myself, but with a carb kit costing £10-£15 and the risk of eFing it up a loosing some tiny component and not even realising... I've stripped the chain brake assembly and recoil assembly so far, think I'll advance to scary stuff like carbs and piston rings at a later date!

I'm having a few running issues with 2006 200t, I suspect it to be the usual carb problem. My question is; Are all 020t/200t carbs interchangeable? If so, can I get hold of a new 020t carb? Or would a new/latest 200t carb be better?