Essexlogman

17 minutes ago, Ratman said:

S3 final scene was a cracker!

Yea amazing did not see that one coming 

On 21/09/2019 at 20:48, RC0 said:

Something different. Might catch on in the UK

 

 

Stump removal looked a right crack back in the day too !

This should help

https://www.hsdirect.co.uk/product-information/risk-assessments/tree-surgery-risk-assessment.html

1 hour ago, jackbingham93 said:

Hi guys got an oldish 200t that started playing up yesterday. If I press the throttle it starts to rev and then drops, if i keep on the throttle it will cut out and require choking to start again. I’m  thinking it might be fuel related but I don’t know if anyone has had similar trouble, any help would be apreciated, 

cheers

jack 

Hello Jack had a similar thing happen to our oldish 200t thought it was maybe a fuel line spilt or something so did a bit of youtubeing tried a bit of carb adjustment to no avail then realised it was the fuel cap seal that had perished worth a look before you start  stripping

12 hours ago, Terjef said:

Ok, do you happen to know how it works on mine? Or how I could test?

Hello Terjef

We have had various similar issues on our TT85 over the years first port of call is forget the remote control for time being the hot wire method should let you know if you have a connection that is OK from memory the top or bottom pin will be up or down connected to the middle pin if this works then you have a remote connection or handset problem, if this fails then undo the two screws on the battery connectors cut and clean wire brush the wires and re attach to battery if this fails could be a solenoid problem in my humble opinion good luck Essexlogman!

On ‎14‎/‎09‎/‎2018 at 15:48, sandspider said:

Hi all

 

My ancient Yanmar YM1600 tractor seems to have an oil leak, which I think is coming from the rocker cover gasket. I'm struggling to find a new gasket in the UK, and postage from the US is 3x the cost of the gasket! Given that the rocker cover gasket doesn't have to resist huge pressure, I was wondering if liquid gasket / silicone sealer type stuff work work? Either to plug a hole in said gasket, or to remove the gasket altogether and create a new one using the liquid gasket / a bead of silicone.

 

If this is a sensible option, can anyone recommend a good brand of liquid gasket? There are several on ebay at different prices, but it would be nice to have a good one recommended that will resist warm oil, and last! (I do have high temp silicone sealant already to hand, but guessing there's probably a better product than this available...)

 

Cheers.

Heremetite used to be the order of the day, most of the motorcycles that we used to rag around back in the day were held together with this stuff do not know if it still exists all the best Essexlogman

1 hour ago, Coletti said:

 

Does anyone have one they can share or know where I can download one from? Can't seem to find the one on the AA website.

 

Thanks in advance

 

(Apologies for the duplicate post, put it in the wrong forum first time round)

 

Check these guys out just a few quid to buy hsdirect

https://www.hsdirect.co.uk/product-information/risk-assessments/tree-surgery-risk-assessment.html

Regards Essexlogman

two ashes.natural, not grafted. anyone seen this before?

Yes here love a quirky tree

Hello Steve

Not a burred bar? personally found a veering of was because of this good luck ! Essexlogman

I have bother the ms150 and also the battery topping saw running the Stihl 1/4 pitch chain. Aside from how finicky this tiny chain is to sharpen its basically a fantastic pruning chain leaving almost a silky finish.

 

However I keep getting a recurring problem when cutting. The saw seems to act as it would had the chain been sharpened one sided, the saw feels like its veering off and gets to a stage where the saw doesn't want to move any further. I'm pretty competent with my sharpening so didn't put the issue down to this, plus the fact it happens even on a relatively new chain which has had very few sharpens.

 

I was working with a new climber yesterday who was also running a 150, so I mentioned my issue with the chain and he has experienced the same, and thought it was just him. So i'm not the only one, yet not heard any other complaints here or elsewhere.

 

My own theory, if using the saw at a funny angle, the slight twist in your wrists is potentially enough to veer the fine chain off course giving this feeling that its not cutting straight. Keen to hear if anyone else has experienced this same thing and has any opinions on it

Save

Probably one for spud or someone with similar knowledge this one.had an echo 360 topper from new (about 2 years) always been a bit lazy oiling from new,if I blow it out (bar groove,oiler hole etc) it oils ok for a tank or two then stops,stripped it tonight and noticed it seems to be seeping a minute amount of oil from the base,has it split a gasket somewhere? Thanks in advance

We had this problem with ours (about the same age) we took it back to the supplier thinking bloody hell it can not need a new oil pump already and they informed that it was a blockage of the filter in the oil tank pipe feed we are always carefull in filtering oil into the tank but when you take the filter out the gauze is very fine as we have had the occasional blockage and cleared it ourselves easy fix as the plastic gauze filter just pulls of the brass attachment

Hope this helps regards Essexlogman

Thought the arbtalk police were coming for you at 1.30 for 1 handing the saw 🚔 😜

Yea I made it 1.23 though

What puzzles me a little about this whole thred having scand over it all again is that many people who have contributed care about doing a good job, presenting a professional image and trying to educate the public and in doing so get arb the recognition as a skilled profession that it deserves and in doing that hopefully get the public more willing to pay what we would realy like them to. But and it's a big but when someone is doing the opposite and presenting out industry badly for whatever reason it's the old ' not my problem ' attitude that comes out which is a real shame.

Just my opinion so let the abuse begin.

Yea I can really see the old Yin and Yan side of things coming out on this one but on a lighter note can well identify with this I would say you can get an excellent cut with the old Stick if used properly

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldwoodcutter View Post

And using a pole saw isn't against the law either, i have had very good contract climbers (and fellow arbtalkers) ask to send up the gypsy stick, to get the job done easier and safer and with cuts to a good standard.

.

Ouch. Were the blades the only thing damaged? Very lucky if they were

Alas not Steve it had damaged and bent the disc shaft so we had to replace listed/

One Disc

One anvil Large

one anvil Small

two new blades

two bearings plus labour £1056.96p later ouch!

Much of a noise as it did this?

Oh yes I was in the back garden when I heard "the noise" and thought that was a hard piece of wood!

A good sharpen and them blades will be as good as new!!!!!

Just thought I would reiterate how bad and expensive it is to put a ball hammer through your woodchipper!

This was hidden amongst a load of ivy on the last knockings of a sweet Friday job oh well s**t appens all sorted now and normal service is resumed, on a positive note though I like the way it sliced through the hammer!!!

Cheers Essexlogman!

I use wolf ones as well, the extending ones.

 

***POWER Cut Bypass Lopper

 

Big and chunky, a renault espace ran them over (when I left them in a stupid place) and it broke the very bottom of the handles (last inch or so) which doesn't have metal in it just plastic. Otherwise absolutley fine as long as you dont try to cut too big.

We use these as well if you are interested in saving 35% on rrp try here

Wolf Garden Tools: Wolf Garten Soil : Wolf Garten Multichange: Wolf Garden Lawn Mowers: World of Wolf

Regards Essexlogman

Hello aurelius wood try it this way we were told a couple of days ago and thought it was a right wind up at first but got home Wednesday and tried it and it works I can not guarantee it will cure your particular problem but may help you or other people who have similar issues "build your fire upside" down put all large logs at the bottom followed by smaller logs then your dry kindling then the paper held down with a small a few small pieces of kindling when you think about it does make sense, the paper warming the flue quickly igniting the kindling then working down to the larger logs as a fire burns from the surface saving the need to keep opening the log burner door to top up until up to temperature let me know how you get on

Cheers Essexlogman

Hi all,

Every now and then, I suffer a smokeout when trying to light the log burner (Clearview 400p) and I'm trying different methods to avoid ending up with the Windows open and being even colder!

I have good pine kindling, newspaper and natural freighters, plus the odd pine cone.

My theory was the flue is cold and consequently, there is no draw, so my latest theory was lighting a single firelighter to promote warm air rising before adding paper/kindling etc, but still getting mixed results.

I've watched every you tube video and read the odd book so I know I'm not do I'm not doing anything daft, and before anyone asks, yes my logs are seasoned ( 11% average)

It's quite random, the same technique will work on Monday, but Tuesday gets a smokeout. I'd be interested to know if anyone has perfected a technique to avoid said problem

I've noticed on some web sites that Echo sell a Tuning screwdriver which cost about £50!

 

What is it? and do you NEED if if you run an echo saw?

 

If you do need it it makes the saws a bit less competitively priced.

 

Only asking cos I'm thinking of getting a 360 at some point.

Hey Shane if you are thinking of getting a CS360TES you wont need a tuning screwdriver as the one I bought was ready to go straight out of the box! just got better and better as it bedded in over a few weeks use, cracking saw proper Japanese Karma in these

These ones fit the Echo's.

 

They also fit on the Sthil cans.

Excellent I have been having this problem myself with my cs360es its just not the same when you have to detach the nozzle and use a funnel !!! I shall be ordering one Cheers Ukulian

As long as there are no "right of way and access issues" eg ransom strip with regards to your planning application or the houses assuming you get permission you have had a good result and I would just put a line under the matter and put up a six foot fence right on the boundary of the hedging or just leave when you get permission for the new owners to maintain if they so wish, I can see your point though regarding your maintenance over the years though.

The land registry will be able to tell you if there is ownership title on the land just my opinion and hope this helps and it all works out OK for you

Echo CS360TES Had ours now for a few weeks a right little screaming demon love it!!! cheers Essexlogman

Hey Kentjames I am with you on that one when I work I want my equipment to do the same without fuss!

Recently I have got into refurbing old saws, so far I have got the CS8000 back up and running complete with a new 24" bar and chain combo, with a 242xp and an old pro mac 55 on the bench in pieces ready for sorting out.

 

BUT

 

For every day usage, work, earning me money. I use new saws with reliability and parts back up I know I can trust in.

 

I have no idea what im gonna do with the older saws but its a real pleasure to play in the work shop with them #greasemonkey

Got the same dilema with me trusted top handled been faultless for nigh on 4 years now and giving me a bit of grief had a look at it myself and have decided to bin it and buy a brand new one as it will pay for itself in the first couple of days work

Cheers Essexlogman!

Piston went in my 181, replaced at a cost if £140, then was having carb problems so all new diaphragms and rebuilt carb came to £60, saw was running lovely, warmed up through some small logs, bigger logs thn cut through a bit of oak with the whole 28 inch bar on and it conked out, my guy has stripped it down and it has seized te piston ring into te cylinder on the exhaust side, the guy is recommending I repair it but put a smaller bar on it, but 28 inches is fine on an 81cc saw unless ex has fitted the wrong size piston? May I add he does a lot if saws but more domestic and this is the biggest saw that he has worked on.

 

I'm in two minds to chuck it and buy a new 90cc saw say a 661 etc or pay another £140 and try my luck?

What would you do?

This post is probably difficult I read but it has been a long week!

Cheers