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mattplace

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Posts posted by mattplace

  1. I bolted a hitch on to my digger blade which worked quite welll as was only 2x M16 bolts to undo if it gets in the way.


    Ideally that's what I wanted to do but my blade has a boxed in structure behind the face of the blade so I can't get access behind to do the nuts up. On the plus side, it will provide more strength and stability for a socket to be welded into. [emoji106]
  2. Nice. Have you welded a hitch to the front of the blade? I thought about putting an American type receiver on the top of the blade so I can slot in a hitch when needed.

    Yes, for now I welded a bracket to the blade. I couldn't decide what height to put it so trialed it like this... And it's been on for 3 months!
    I will make a socket for it eventually as when it's on digging duties again, the hitch will get in the way.
  3. Mine's a Burley Brampton, and I find the airwash doesn't work very well - glass fogs up quite quickly. But a wipe with a damp cloth gets it off, nothing seems to be sinking into the glass - yet.
     
    One thing I have noticed recently is that the ash in the bottom of the stove is forming into solid lumps in parts - like lava, or boiler slag! It takes the poker to get it out of the stove (in lumps) at emptying time. Does this mean I'm over firing it or something? Too much moisture in the wood? Burley suggest wood less than 14% moisture, but that's quite hard to come by in Wales in winter, even kiln dried!


    That's how my glass starts, then it starts at the top left corner and slowly expands across.

    My Ash goes like that and I just assumed it's how it goes with good stoves. I probably empty it once a week with it being used every day. Unbelievable compared to my old inefficient stove which I had to empty every day!
  4. I never had any trouble with my old fire and my parents 7 yr old aga log burner glass is still like new.
    Mine is a Burley Holywell and I replace the glass every year.
    We both burn the same wood and no solid fuel has ever been near mine.
    I wonder if it's the more efficient stoves which are affected?

  5. Thanks Matt - What exact chain components are added to lengthen the chain?

    1 drive link I believe. I was trying to add a screenshot from chainsawbars website but says wrong file type.
    If you put the saw type into their website it tells you the chain length.

    Ive seen Northern arb supplies are now doing 1/4 chain really cheap. I've heard mixed reviews on their chain but at a third of the price, it's worth a punt!
  6. Well that's 2 hrs of my life I'm not getting back! [emoji23]

    Didn't work for me unfortunately. I tried 400 grit wet and dry by hand, then in a sander, and also tried glass polishing powder (cerium oxide powder). Still hazy and looks worse if anything.

    I think I'll stick to buying a new piece of glass every year! [emoji16]

  7. Does anyone know if you need an extra link in  the Stihl 10" chain - to fit the 2511 ?

    Yes you do. I made this mistake the other week and bought 3 chains. Instead of sending them back as I needed it the next day, I drilled an extra hole in the bar. At the moment I only drilled on the one edge as the opposite bar hole is the oil hole and I didn't know if drilling the extra hole there would make it leak through the redundant hole. At the moment there's around 1/3rd of the oil hole showing and sufficient oil is getting to the bar.

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