Gorkde

Grow up asshole!

I just asked for experience so I can make my decision if I send that Pulley bach and get the one I wanted in the first place. But sone people doesn't seem to get it. Anyway, thanks to the guys that helped me!

Oh many nice people in this forum...

I never said that.

It turns when rolling my finger on it but not "easy" it needs a bit of force not that much but some more than the one without ball bearing. For what I think a ball bearings bonus should be an easier spinning but this doesn't seem to be the case for suchhaving a seal in it. I don't need it to be spinning after the rope stopped but I think you got exactly what I meant. My normal HC turns easier than the one with ball bearing. So in essence the pulling rope is a bit harder even when probably nearly not noticeable in climbing I assume didn't try since I want to be able send it back. But since I tend anyway to send it back there would be no point in keeping it if the ball bearing makes it not easier to pull but even a bit harder. Sure it has other usages where this pulley would be better but I don't think I will ever use it for something other than for my knot. And longer lifetime also doesn't matter since I'm not climbing everday and my other HC did last for more than 5 years now. Just thought it would run better than the normal HC once its worked in some time. This would have been an argument for me to keep it even it differs from my other HC which I did want to buy a second one of. Just switched from Distel to VT and also got thicker rope for it. Pulling it is no longer problem now but as said its not what I initially wanted to buy and if there's no benefit from keeping it I will send it back to get a second one as thw one I already got. Thanks for your help!

I bought this product because of an error on the website. So in essence your Pulley does spin the same as when you got it first and it doesn't spin easier now after some work. Did I understand that correctly?

It's probably not defective but I did buy it cause I assumed to get the same I already have. So I would like to return it anyway. The only option to keep it would be if it turns easier than the normal HC. So if it won't even after some time of usage I will return it. Isn't there anyone who did use the Rapide quite some time who can tell me if it spins freely after some weeks of usage or if the resistance is still there?

Sure. I just use it with my climbing knot to pull rope. Therefore will it loosen up and turn more easy when worked in?

Hello, I did use a normal Hitchclimber since some time and it turns ok. Now I did order a second one and this time a Rapide. My problem is the Rapide should turn smoothly because of the ball bearings but isnt. My normal HC turns about 2-3 Times when I push it before it stops. The Rapide nit even turns 1/4 turn and stops nearly instantly. Will this change when worked in or is that normal and it will stay like that? Its supposed to turn better than the normal HC right?

I love that ladder or no Equip answers haha - If you would know why I laugh my ass off now you would not believe it! You where SOOOOO right! You would have to know the background to understand the joke you made without knowing but it was great! Made my day, thanks! :lol: (not laughing about you)

Ah ok, I supposed you used the sit/stand method. This did produce lots of force in my tests. Maybe the other methods are better then.

As far as I remember from far back then in scool this should work as butter (fat) should work as dissolvent for the resin. BUT I would never smear my rope with butter anyway I would assume washing should work good enough and you would need to wash the butter mess anyway

Glad to hear you are ok! I got 2 questions. Maybe I am wrong, so please correct me if: 1. You said you did choose SRT cause it does less movement. Why? Each time I did compare it I clearly saw much more movement in the rope and of the rope at the branch with SRT. This is why I personally do not like SRT at all. 2. You know the forces in SRT on the anchor (if you throw the rope over tie anchor and tie one end away from the anchor) are doubled right? So a anchor that would have been ok could have broken exactly cause you did choose that method. You get doubled force anyway and if you load dynamic force (movement) I assume it quadruples right (not sure)? Therefore even much larger movement with DRT should have put less load on the anchor than small ones with SRT if I understood your description correctly. (Do not want to blame you, just like to mention/discuss cause that is the reason I personally do feel unsecure using SRT what causes me to avoid it).

It looks exactly as the teeths in the ascender or the pantin, so there should be not more or less damage than that. One could use a croll as well I think.

Maybe he expected it In the beginning of part one the "actors" are explained