Dilz

as for residual risk of the high stem falling over - the client has already been informed about this, but considering the load its carrying now and it hasn't already fallen, the risk of it falling if its cut in half will be drastically reduced for a number of years and if done so in a way that it won't damage property if it does fall then its not so much of an issue.. A factor that I have to take into account is that this tree is of extreme sentimental value to the client. It having been planeted by her grandfather on the family farm so she is quite desperate to save something especially as its partner was removed in the winter (and I planked up and is now drying in their barn)

and the current motion is towards cutting it down to a height that means if it does fail it won't hit the building.

No stress about that - I have already given the report with the - its not my problem / no guarantees jargon. Seem to recall an English Canadian guy wrote a whole book on such..cant recall his name of the top of my head..decent chap - did my ISA risk assessment course with him.

- Just going to throw this on here to see what other think. Client has a large walnut with a very heavy lean towards a new built pool house. Tree was crown reduced as much as possible in terms of tree care 2 years ago. The roots on the back side of the tree have been damaged by builders during building work There is what appears to be an old sheer plane crack that has healed over some years ago but is giving a sound indicating hollowness when assessing the stem with a mallet A sonic topography survey was carried out indicating a reduction of strength on the tensile side (back of the lean ) Another walnut that was taken down next to this one had some basal decay and internal cracks on the sheer plane. Client has wished to retain at least something of the tree. Further crown reduction whilst remaining in the realms of tree care standards would have a negligible effect. The lean has not noticeably increased recently but did shift some years ago according to the client. If it were to fail as it currently is its going on the pool house and would cause extensive damage to it. We are currently discussing options of trying to support the tree but it would be quite a project. Another option discussed with the client is to cut back the crown to some smaller branches lower down ( essentially leaving a high stem with a few green bits and using the the stem as a structure for climbing plants ) so that if it were then to fail it would not reach the building. Curious as to what others think in this situation - are there more options that could be considered?

Ordered one - picking it up tomorrow from ICA - only place I found selling it close to me was in Denmark .

I use merino glove lines - merino polyester blend are best. Try and have two pairs. Then wear what ever thin grippy glove I have. Use some thicker water roof ones and thicker pfanner gloves but tbh I don't notice that much better heat retention and they get in the way. Ground work I'll have some decent think gloves on but still the glove lines underneath. Tennis Elbow this time round - Physio - wrist brace, and the arm band thing and 10 days of anti inflammation drugs, a couple simple daily exercises and told to rest -- also told i could expect to be needing the wrist brace and should stay of work for several months - day after spent the morning drilling out some rusted bolts ..this was very stupid - so then put myself on strict rest - all Christmas drinking with me left hand - least I had a good excuse when I missed me mouth. Kept a diary of pain and exercise, started using some magnesium oil after scanning posts arbtalk. Noticed my right shoulder had rolled forward and had a restriction in movement seemingly from the front of chest, traps and shoulder. Ended up getting recommended a Bicep wall stretch...this clearly hit something - very uncomfortable stretch at first but hit lots of points in the arms shoulder and neck. after 3 days of doing this several times I literally felt my shoulder pull back and sit right and got much better movement. Today went for dry needling to get some of the deep trigger points released - couldn't turn the keys with my right hand after to start the van, Back on the tools next week so will see how it goes.

Currently taking a pause from work due to tennis elbow / ligament pain in the forearm. Won't be climbing for at least month from now and only if the current treatments work which so far it seems to so that's pretty much under control. Wondering if using a thicker diameter climbing rope could help as it may be easier to grip or will the extra friction when slack tending cancel out any benefit? Any experience on this / feedback much appreciated.

Client wants a single piece 7 - 10m board from a walnut we felled. (as long as possible) I usually use ladders for my first cuts, but don't have a ladder that long - 3.5m I think. Any tips for getting the first cut on such a long stem?

Seriously considering the Jo Beau B24-100 as my next grinder. Any one have any experience with the machine?

Thanks! 'Tjär och asfaltsborttagare' is what we call that round these Scandinavian parts

Thanks! Excuse the ignorance - but what is rtf cleaner? Is it just a multipurpose cleaner?

So my "Shandong Honest Machine Company" saw mill I accidentally bought at auction (Same as Kellfri electric saw mill) is almost ready for its first logs. Just waiting on some decent ripper blades to replace the one it came with which I can tell is made out of old baked bean cans. The instructions are a bit lacking and more so my knowledge. It has a water tank with a drip meant for cooling the blade. My question is - Is this supposed to drip water onto the blade before or after the cut - makes more sense for it to be cooling after the cut but just want to check. It says just use water but should I consider using anything else? Also - when the mill is not in use between the days / weeks in-between milling days should I slacken off the blade tension a little?

will only be running one machine at a time - so just a single 8kw motor - any more info than that id have to look up.

That's not really an option. My patch is about 25m away from the main building. There's 3 outlets on the outer wall.

PCE 9436422 CEE Adapter 32A-16A WWW.THOMANN.DE CEE Adapter 32A - 16A Mobile plastic distributor, type St. Anton-2f IP44 with bracket, 1x CEE connector 32 A 5p 400V... Using one of these seems a legit way to go about it. Would it make sense to pull this in to the 32A outlet and then run a 16A cable to the machine or would a 32a cable be best to run from the outlet? Going to need about 30 - 35m of cable I reckon.

I would hazard a guess that yes they do. Im going to check with the owner and get access to the main building and check what fuse box he has running on the outlet.

Recently started hiring a bit of land. Have access to electricity via a 32A 3 phase outlet. Got a mill and a splitter that have 16A sockets. Is it fine to just use a simple adapter to go from the 32A to the 16A sized connector or does the 16A adapter need its own fuse / circuit breaker?

i recommended hornbeam at the original consultation - they went with beech - the trees were ordered and delivered n Thursday - digging started on Friday. last site visit i did was 6 weeks ago and water level didn't appear to be an issue

Already got planned with the client about installing an automated irrigation system once they get mains water connected (told then to wait but they want it all and now 🤔)- the biggest concern when i meet them in the summer was drought and the fact they live abroad so we discussed installing a watering computer with moisture sensors for the hedge and trees

Can you enlighten a bit more on this. This isn't my usual game to be honest

that's a sound idea - just need to work out the extra costs and present it to the client

the. issue i think with a soak away is that the water table is so high on the property just now it's just going to be a sump but at the high end of the property there isn't water filling the planting trench or tree pits. Current thinking after a bit of a nap is plant up the top end with beech and give the client the choice of buying hornbeam vs getting some big toys in to sort the drainage properly vs giving it a go with the beech that's already been bought but knowledgeable of the high risk of morality rates being high. If they go with hornbeam i either plant the remaining beech elsewhere on their property or try and sell it or decide if i want any beech hedge on my property...at least with them being in containers rather than bare root i have a good time window to get a solution.

was toying with that idea but I'm no expert on such matters... at the furthest - lowest end of the trench i started digging a pit at the end of the day and will have a look tomorrow but tbh the whole property is going to need some serious drainage sorting as the water table is so high over a large area. Its the first time locally is been an issue - usually locally your lucky to have 6" of topsoil before getting nothing but rocks and sand

and yes the client wants basically near instant hedge effect - so its 175cm high plants in 7.5ltr pots - they plan to camp on the plot next summer to get a feel for the site but want a bit of privacy 🤔

yeah its tricky really - in hindsight bare root would have been a better option but when buying treasurer plants i usually recommend container just to give more time for planting and it is what it is i guess as the plants are delivered. I think a big issue is the water table has risen as the trees have been removed as i never saw standing water until today and I've been on the site several times since January but it has been exceptionally wet late summer / earthy autumn. The trench sides are smeared by the bucket as the trench was dug side on (long story) but the site isn't actually heavily compacted. Inspection pits were dug but earlier in the year and when i noted clay that's when i recommended the hornbeam.. we also usually have more of an issue with drought in the area.. the most water in the trench is at the lowest part of the property / area - no ditches nearby to lay a pipe