Rob Stringer

Thanks for the replies, i've cut them to 8 ft so the slabs fit in my trailer and I like 3" slabs for benches which would be hard for me to lift if much longer:biggrin: . Its roadside and mostly pretty clean and straight (the rest having long since been logged up), i've got something to go on now so i'll do some adding up..

hello all, I have some oak sawlogs from work I carried out last year and someone has expressed an interest in buying some of them. They are all cut to 8 ft length and vary from 12-24" diameter, i'd spared them being split into logs so I can mill them into slabs for furniture making etc. I'm happy to sell some of them as sawlogs but have no idea of the value as I dont usually do this. Was wondering if anyone had any pointers? Thanks, Rob Stringer

Yes, the forestry commission administer the woodland grant scheme which includes grants for bringing neglected coppice into rotation, deer fencing, track improvements etc. Details are on their website or contact their local office.

If the growth is too small for firewood it would do no harm to leave it for the time being if you've no use for it. Having said that, if the stool survived being coppiced after a long time theres no reason why it wouldnt survive a second cut a few years later (hazel is typically cut every 7 years), though I cant guarantee it:biggrin:.

I've been making hazel hurdles in the recent cold weather. No major problems, the biggest issue I had was that my hands were numb which made twisting the round rods a bit more difficult (and I snapped the odd one).

hi Matt I'd be interested in the non-leather boots too, keep me in the loop cheers

(though my current boots wont need replacing for a while)

Thought just occurred to me, you aren't trying to undo it with it all still in place, are you? You have to undo the bolts next to the priming pump and lift it out first.

Could be, :blushing:i'll have a look in the morning, it didn't say that in the manual (just to undo the filter sensor underneath)..

hello all, thought i'd have a quiet day doing a bit of vehicle maintenance today. Was changing the fuel filter on my nissan terrano (2.7 td) and have found the old filter doesnt want to unscrew, i've tried different filter wrenches,wd40 etc. but ive only succeeded in scraping and denting the metal on the old filter which is probably unusable now. Nightmare!!!! It was on there when I bought the vehicle earlier this year so I guess it could have been on there for years. Anyone got any ideas or suggestions? Thanks, Rob S

Really?

 

 

 

It's simple really. If you want public services, which most people do, then they need to be paid for. That includes paying people to deliver them, and if you want them delivered properly then you need to pay a good enough wage to get good people to do them. Yes, there has been a lot of waste, some of which could have been avoided, but lumping everyone whose wages are paid by the state into one bracket is only possible if you are very uninformed, very bigoted, or gullible enough to believe government propaganda (any colour of government) or gutter press (any political persuasion).

 

Alec

:congrats:

Sounds like everyone would ditch pump petrol altogether if Aspen was a few quid less..... Come on Aspen, make it £13-£14 and sell ten times as much!

Thanks for the replies, can anyone recommend a supplier they've had good experience with regarding bag quality etc.?

This is what I wanted to hear! I've thought about trading my trailer in for a tipping trailer but a lot of my customers either dont have a driveway or want the logs unloaded into a shed, getting fed up of hand-loading into a wheel-barrow etc.

Hello all,I'm considering using vented barrow bags as a method of drying&delivering logs to reduce the amount of handling involved. Was wondering if anyone uses them and how they find them. Do they stand up to repeated use, exposure to sunlight etc. I dont have equipment for handling larger bags and the barrow bags look like a handy size for dragging off my trailer and moving around on a sack-barrow but I'm thinking they'll only be good value if they can be re-used quite a few times. Thanks, Rob S

Indeed, just been doing some google searching and found a solicitors website which says the small trailer exemption is only being abolished for 'standard' o-licence applications. Dont know much about this, but if true wouldnt most small arb/forestry operations be covered by the 'restricted' o-licence description so not affected (if the information is correct!).

wp30, I think the wp36 has a bit more power& slightly quicker but the splitting knives are the same. The wp36 will handle 15" cord but with a 6-way knife you'll be feeding stuff this size through more than once to produce standard size logs. Not necessarily a problem, just my personal preference to use an 11 ton splitter for material of this size.

Yes it is, I just find it can be simpler to split larger rings with a logsplitter as i've got more control of the results and theres more power to go through knots etc. Having said that with cord around 10" diameter the processor is very quick and easy to use, I wouldnt go back to chainsaw&logsplitter or axe for this.

The log-lifter will lift anything that will go through the machine in my experience. Its not excessively guarded so clearing a jam from the splitter is easy enough. Only goes up to a 6-way blade as far as I know though, and I find anything over 10" or so you'll end up with big logs like slices of cake that'll need feeding through twice. Its very quick with smaller cordwood (less than 12") but with 12"+ stuff I find it easier to just use a chainsaw&splitter.

I

I've had a mill cutting fine (or so I thought) at the beginning of the log only to get near the end and have it jammed tight where the bar is pulling down in the cut.

 

Solution really is to get a new guide bar, new chain and new drive sprocket. Of course this is expensive but so's your time....

Sounds about right unfortunately.

thanks for the replies. Tried cutting with the saw unattached and it was hooking downwards so this could have been the problem (I packed up at this point!). Not using guide-rails, using a plank as a guide to start and then the sawn surface of the log. I also have an m7 which is much easier to use! Only got the lsg kit for slabbing logs which are too big to roll onto the m7, just want to make sure I get everything right next time as the guide-bars are expensive to replace. Really frustrating as, to start with, it looked like i'd get some nice oak boards cut but ran into problems very quickly.

hello all, took my big mill lsg out for the first time recently to mill some oak into slabs. Spent a lot of time fiddling about to set it up and then when I used it was having trouble with the press plate that holds the tip of the chainsaw guide bar in place. It was either not holding the bar in place so the tip was moving about or if I tightened it smoke was coming from the area:001_huh:. Was quite a disappointing day and all I had to show for it were a couple of rough boards and a knackered guide bar. Was wondering if anyone on here uses the big mill lsg sucessfully and could shed light on what i'm doing wrong (i've followed the instructions in the manual etc.)?

Bryant&Kesek, reasonable prices and they cover all the work I do (including employers liability for occasional days with helpers) rather than putting arbitrary restrictions on tree height (as mentioned above) .

bought it from riko (on the right) and theres videos on their website (ive made none of my own, just photos of log-piles like billy's above).

I also got a farmi processor earlier this year as i'd had enough of going through cordwood with log-splitter and chainsaw (billeting with splitter not too bad but sawing it up was tiring and hard on the chainsaw). It makes a dramatic difference, the controls are easy to use etc. its worth it if you've got a lot of under 12" cordwood to go through.

I have an 8' by 4' trailer with cage sides (around 3' high) and a ramp tailgate. So it holds up to around 3 cubic metres of logs, would it be feasible to use a load-handler with this set-up? Has anyone used it on anything similar?

Thanks for your replies, it has auto free-running hubs and two gear levers. I've got an owners manual which isnt that enlightening and havent yet been able to find a print workshop manual. Just hoping its something simple to fix!