MarshallArb

The US ms260 has less hp than the UK model though? Just muffle mod it and retune it and you should be somewhere or there abouts at least anyway!

yeah thats the case with the ms660. the us is 0.1 hp less than the uk version.

odd that its a different way around with the husqvanas especialy if its to do with the H&S regs youd have thaught that they all would have more hp in us.

You should be able to give your dealer the numbers and they will order them for you.

 

I managed to get the complete pump that was described as an AUS pump. Could be the same as the US one but not sure.

 

I have been and looked for the part number but cant find it. However, if you want me to do, I can find the part number for the complete pump from my dealer. It should still be on my records with them.

 

I believe the complete pump was just over £30 when i got mine but I think the dealer supplied it free as I kicked up so much about it at the time! The parts listed above come to around £20-25 but obviously you have to strip the pump to fit them.

 

Let us know how you get on.

cheers mate great help will be at my dealer tomorrow so will ask them about parts

Cant seem to find the thread I was looking for, but found this one. Its quite old but some useful bits in there.

 

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/1114-ms-660-problems.html

 

Also, this is one i started that is definately worth a read through if you want to prolong the 660's life!

 

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/8589-ms660-ms460-air-filter-upgrades.html

 

If you have trouble finding part numbers, i should be able to find the number for the australian pump i got for mine. It is a much higher output and cured the problem.

 

Have a read of the thread first though and get back to me if you need it as it will take a bit of digging out.

 

Happy reading, Pete.

thanks mate yeah had noticed its inaility to filter air will be ordering upgrade tomorrow!

intereresting air filter video link below. i found it interesting how husqvanas seem to filter a lot more before the air gets to the filter! i know my 357xp needs cleaning far less often than my works ms 260.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rztm0HM9XzE&feature=share]YouTube - Chainsaw Air Injection Demonstration Husqvarna/Stihl[/ame]

thanks again

where do i get them from?

on previous thread you said they are only available in the us

is this so or can i get them for my dealer?

thanks mate

glad to help.

baught an ms 660 chainsaw at apf cos it was a bargain its a great saw but when i am running it on big hardwoods it seems to be not oiling enough.

oiling is turned up high

saw is fine on all wood on 20'' bar -just bad on big hardwoods on 30'' bar fine on softwoods

both bars are clean and both chains are new ish and the oil is coming out and into the bar and there are no leakages.

was using oregon chain oil tried using stihl which made it a little better (as its a little thinner perhaps?)

not used to stihls is this a common problem?

starting to wish id waited and baught a husquvana 395xp!

Pocket diagnostics-a brilliant tool

many of you probably know about these but for those that dont-try them!

ive been using for a while now to back up what i suspect when i see symptoms on customers trees.

tests for all strains/spp. of Phytopthora so usefull on Horse chestnut, oak, larch etc

See Link:

Products

I have been trying this setup for a while but no sprocket available in 3/8th. Tried running 325 on 16" quarter tip but kept snapping chain. Have not found a solution as yet. If you come across anything let me know.

it seems that you can only run a husq 346xp on a 1/4 chain. tavistock chainsaws can suply a new sprocket to suit meaning you can run a quater or a dime cannon bar.

i.e. if your husqvana runs on a rim and spline sprocket they can suply just a new 1/4 catridge. not sure what older/non pro husqvana saws run on a rim and spline but they would be able to supply for those to i guess.

all other husqys can only run .325 on a quater tip with the problem you mention. as ther are no 1/4 spur spockets available.

hard graft and aptitude are all thats important.

you'll probably spend a fair while feeding a chipper and moving logwood until you earn your stripes as it were but even then a lot of the job is more mundane. its not all about swinging about in trees as some people wrongfully percieve.

i would mebe do your cs30 and cs38 first then do your work experience as you will then be able to ground for a climber and leave off doing your 31/39 untill later on as you can always do this work if supervised at work. you wont instantly be able to climb with a chainsaw or fell a tree for a start in the first place cos even with the tickets you wont have enough experience. you never know your future employer may pay for them.

go get some experience of the job. dont get me wrong i love forestry and tree surgery (i do both) but it is hard work and often in bad weather. its not for everyone. dont waste a load of money doing all your tickets only to find out you dont like it(about 50%of the lads i went to colege with have ended up doing other stuff after qualifying cos they couldnt hack doing it).

as for your uni qualifications it can only be an advantage having a more i depth understanding of related subjects.

best of luck

yeah ive contacted them will let you know in the next couple of days.

as regards snapping chains i believe thats why most carving chains are 1/4 rather than .325

for sale 1 britpart winch bumper (no winch) and a champion steering guard.

both taken off a p reg disco i.e. a discovery 1 so will fit a 200tdi or a 300tdi.

location N. Yorks nr Bedale.

delivery can be arranged.

email [email protected]

open to offers

is it possible to fit a carving bar to a 435?

i know i can get a husqvana carving bar (cannon) and chain but am struggling to find a 1/4 pitch sprocket to fit the 435.

if there is no such thing can i buy a rim and spline sprocket for the 435 in standard .325 and then swap the catridge outer for a 1/4 drive from another sprocket ie are all husqvana splines the same?

would welcome any advice as would like to start carving and this is the only chainsaw i can spare from tree surgery!

thanks

anyone know of any courses around for carving?

have carved a few simple things but would like a few pointers on more elaborate carving techniques.

whenever i try more elaborate things they always end up as firewood.

as with anything im sure it is all practice makes perfect!

if you went to the apf you will have seen the new husqvana that will replace the 338xpt next year sometime and that looked like it may be better. but for the time being the 200t is king!

yes there is more cc on a husquvana 338xpt but you would think it was the other way around.

in my experience the 200t is by far the better machine i.e. starts eisier, balances better and cuts better. this of course is my own personal opinion.

im not saying this because i am an out and out stihl user because i run mainly husqvanas.

if you want a budget top handled Fr jones sell ama saw which, while only small (25cc and 10" bar) i have heard good reports of. they cost £150 so don't expect great performance but what more do you want for 150? good backup saw i reccon?

Alfie Pattern, The 13 yr old dad has just joined 'fathers for justice'. in an interveiw he said it makes sense as i've already got the spiderman outfit

Wrong. Utility companies (if you mean energy providers) are highly regulated in everything they do, including tree work. Utility arb. companies are equally regulated and have to meet the same compliances as regular arb companies, probably more so due to the nature of the work.

i realise they have regs to abide by.

its just you see said coumpanies not just energy providers that do tree work that is not entirly best practice. for instance a company that shall remain nameless that was clearing powerlines on my bosses estate halved a row or scots pines leaving only dead branches on a totem pole leaving what in future will become a safety hazard.

not only that they flatened fences letting stock into a woodland that contained poisonous plats such as laurel. upon ringing said coumpany they said they had the right to enter the land and do the work as they had informed us they would.

im sure the majority of utilitie coumpanies out there are very profesional but some seem to be worse than some of the cowboys in normal tree surgery.

altough i agree that cheep stuff is normaly a waste of time. there are some mid grounds such as AMA, Shindaiwa, Makita that are better than realy cheap makes and would be perfect for the occasional user.

dont think it will be the low/idle jet on the carb as it only realy affects the tickover rate this jet is fed in to the carb after the throtle valve. the high/main jet is what feeds the saw at anything above tickover which i gather is when the problem occurs.

altering the idle jet will only put more fuel into the engine overall which may appear to solve the problem but should not be veiwed as a long term solution as it will cause wear on your chain brake and clutch due to the higher tickover rate.

cheap saws are never worth it. sounds like it may have a fuel pick up or carb problem.

utility companies are a law unto them sleves

funny i always thaught that the forman was there to make the real workers lifes as difficult as possible.

looking for some groundsman work in Yorkshire preferably N.yorkshire. Got climbing certs and am competent but want to do grounding work. will Have ND in forestry and arb by june looking for work from july.

buy 2nd hand 110 and get back fabricated to your own needs.........a whole lot cheeper! Landrovers are after all a big meccano kit for big boys. too easy to nick nor my liking.............as i found out.

personaly i like the hiflex due to the genorous fit but most of my work mates swear by the strech airs cos they are thiner in build. which ever you can get for area resonable discount.