oakman
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I have been climbing with this system on and off since January. For canopies with a dense crown it works really well. For long limb walks getting back in can pose a problem that can be easily fixed. Before walking out install an additional prussic and revolver on the climbing line, and then feed the tail end of the rope through to act as a mechanical advantage. Simply pull on the tail end to tend your friction hitch as you come back in. I have been using a DMM Heart attack figure 8 with the revolver and had no wear issues. The length of the split tail is critical to ensure it grabs every time. Redirects are a cinch simply belt in and direct the rope F8 in the direction you want to go and re clip in. You can get creative by using a throw line to pull the climbing line into the position you want to go prior to ascending. This I used to good effect on weeping willows. The main drawback I see with this system is what are the forces being created on the branches as you redirect the climbing line through the tree? This is definitely a system for an advanced climber but has tremendous potential as it evolves.
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Looks good Drew, the only thing you may want to include is a requirement for the crew to discuss how a rescue would be performed i.e. SRT or DRT technique, this rules out any confusion should a rescue be required. We have taken this one step further and have an in house document that describes the various climbing and climbing /rescue techniques know as our " climbing policy and procedure document " Which we require every climber to sign off on. Should an accident occur this document provides Workers Compensation with detailed documentation that every worker has received proper training and understands the companies policy This shows due diligence on behalf of the company owners. This may sound like a bunch of bureaucracy but Worker Comp is all about documentation Hope this helps; Oakman
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Hi Rob Murph: I really like the look of this system but how do you put the chest harness together and prevent the mini triaxion from bunching under your chin? A chest roller has a fixed plate to pevent this but costs $120 plus dollars and has to remain in place as you climb or be removed and lowered to the ground. Thanks ; Oakman
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I would tend to agree with Drew, 10mm is really for the big US lines 13mm+
For the likes or Blaze (MM) and the Euro lines 11-MM the MM is best in the Amour Pris con fig. It tend to bit well enough but not too much.
I also like the tapering of the cover and letting it milk down with the core when doing a type II splice. I think this gives it a good finish. You should always lock stitch your splice as well.
Have fun but remember that this splice is the most critical, if it lets go you are in all sorts of trouble so unless you are confident in your splice, don't climb on it.
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ive tried the 10mm but personally i dont like it. all my lines are either 11mm or 12mm and once the 10mm hitch is spliced, it makes it bigger than my climbing line. Sorry for my confusing messages regarding the splicing but i find it REALLY hard explaining what i mean regarding the splice. hope you having luck with it.
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hey mate, when i do a eye to eye splice i dont actually taper the core so that they meet up. there is a discernable difference between the diameter in the middle and towards the ends. I have a space of about 10cm in the middle that is 8mm, this helps the coils on my vt stay tight and the ends are stiffer helping the legs stay open. does this make sense? i run a short vt and it gets real hard putting in a eye to eye splice-i wrecked quite a few to start with and actually started doing burys of only 100mm (this still beat the fishermans in strength testing). I spliced some yesterday using the class 1 splice and to be honest im starting to think this might be the easier way to do things, i know this is opposite to what you first asked me so really sorry about that.
For the class II outer to inner final bury(instead of whipping it down) i taper the outer as per the class I instructions and pull it through using a wire fid.
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Hi Drew B
I had a bash at splicing 8 mm armour prus today and was able to splice a single eye using a class two double braid splice. This worked but I found the rope was stiff after the core on core bury. I then tried an eye and eye split tail and managed to screw things up.
Any advice on how to tapper the inner core and do you make the bury half way down the rope on either end so that the finished split tail has an even tapper. I think things went sideways for me because the eyes were too small. I have spliced most Samson braids & Yale braids but the inner core on the armour prus is very different.
Thanks for any help you can give me
Oakman
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Oakman,
The product is actually a Class II product as the core is stronger than the cover so you should use a class II splice. You may want to check with Drew but I think you would be OK using a Class I as well as the cover is also very strong and this would make a better finish splice. The product is way over rated for its use.
I will check with Jamie as he may have some pointers
