urbandekay

we will only share tips if you share your photos.

 

yes it helps to clamp your block espesially if it is a bit on the light side.

no dont have it so i can rotate or you will find the log will try to turn when you are cutting. and finally use the saw however you want. if it workd for you then do it just watch out for kick backs. using the side of the bar is another good technique for removing a small amount of wood. on an upward stroke make contact with the bottom chain and on a downward strock use the top chain a bit like icing a cake with a pallet knife.

 

tom

So, how do you clamp it?

we will only share tips if you share your photos.

 

yes it helps to clamp your block espesially if it is a bit on the light side.

no dont have it so i can rotate or you will find the log will try to turn when you are cutting. and finally use the saw however you want. if it workd for you then do it just watch out for kick backs. using the side of the bar is another good technique for removing a small amount of wood. on an upward stroke make contact with the bottom chain and on a downward strock use the top chain a bit like icing a cake with a pallet knife.

 

tom

Oh no, had hoped to avoid sharing pics but here goes, not finished and probably won't be

Think I have uploaded pics

Haha well yes we use it in a proper way. There are techniques that the saw is used in a different manor to say logging up ie your rasping but at the end of the day use it how you want if it creates the effect you want then that's sweet. Just respect the kickback zone and where the correct ppe.

What where you carving?

What saw where you using?

I was trying to carve a fox, ambitious perhaps but in at the deep end. Used by beautiful 268xp (Yes I'm long in the tooth) to cut to rough shape and then MS200T for detail

Oh dear, tried my hand at carving today, far from an unmitigated attempt, so have a few questions of those with more expertise in the matter

1, When carving a block, not a stump, do you use something to hold the block down

2. Would it be better to use something to hold the block that swivelled to address block from different angles

3. Do you always use the chainsaw in a 'proper' manner or do you use it like a rasp, moving it sideways across the surface?

Any tool i've spent two hours looking for only to remember some one has borrowed and not returned it.

Yer, that's the way of it, tools that go walkabout

I never understood the reasoning behind the DMF Shane.

Had mine swapped to a solid in my Tranny last year and the gear change is as smooth as ever.

The DMF disintegrated after 65k.

 

Cross head screws are indeed the devils work.

 

I also have a hatred of cheap and nasty ratchet straps.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

Ratchet straps? What's wrong with dolly knots?

Any and every saw that won't start. And any stihl fitted with them fool new petrol caps

Not the case

 

Ultimately the owner of the tree is liable, subject to reasonable foreseeability unless he has placed reliance on advice from another party.

 

The TO should advise on what they would consider acceptable under the TPO, its up to the tree owner to get his own expert opinion.

Yes, imagine though if the owner had acted on the advise of a TP officer who advised he make a formal application but the tree fell before the application could be made. Then it could be argued that the owner had acted on advice of the TP officer and thus the office was liable.

That the owner in this case didn't choose to act on that advice would make the owner liable BUT if the tree fell before a formal application could reasonably be expected to have been processed, then surely the owner could claim that had he acted on the advice of the TP officer then he would be in the same predicament and that the TP officer should have allowed immediate removal

Sounds like an overwhelming thumbs down then

If the tree fell before a formal application could reasonable be regarded to have completed then I believe the TP officer is liable, if not the householder

Interested to hear what people think of Husky's Trio-brake system?

On the injection pump there may be an excess fuel lever which you need to rotate clockwise and push forward, makes starting a whole bunch easier!

Not really a good idea, thinks I because of the weight of the axe would make it less wieldy

i started with an electric, was a B&Q own-brand. standard bar, worked fine. had to give it a chance to cool down but did a lot of early stuff with it

problem is, they are less powerful and the chain runs slower than a petrol saw and that, ultimately, is why petrol is better unless you need to work indoors or quietly

Thanks, knew nothing about electric saws

Anyone carved with an electric saw? Are they up to it? Can they take a dime bar?

What about laurel, makes great mallets

The last few posters mention cordwood. What on earth is it? I always thought a cord was an US measurement of volume. Am I being thick?

A cord as a measure of stacked wood is common in USA but as its first recorded use is 1610 it probably originated in UK

got one of these???

 

Makita 16-5/16" Circular Saw 15AMP 5402NA | eBay

No but got a fairly large Maffel

whats the depth of the tenons?

Minimum 3" anywhere up to potential 12" for through tenon

I would say a Alaskan mini mill would work with a saw or a big circular saw. Or a radial arm saw. I would get a makita chain mortiser too.

Thanks, know nothing about mills

A big circular saw. That way you can set accurate depth stops and angles and not have to do any tidying up.

Yep ot a big plunge circular saw but you can never have too many tools

A house

stuff chains.

 

use a big drill, big chisel, big hammer and big muscles...

Intend to finish with framing chisels and slick but unfortunately the last requirement you cite I lack

Ms150 backhandle

Ms181

Ms201 backhandle

 

All good saws and the first two have a small kerf

 

Cheers dan

I am wondering why 181 not 180 and should the chain be ground to a different angle?

Hi there, have an old husky 61 practica (rancher?) ebay purchase in excellent condition

 

Runs really well after a new carb - but doesnt feel half as eager as my 268xp.

 

To finish it off i need a suitable bar thats not going to sap too much power.

 

Can anyone recommend a decent quality bar - i guess you wouldnt want to run more than 20" on this model?

 

Cheers

 

Jon

I'm not surprised, I have a 61 (not practica or rancher) and a 268xp, rare though the xp version is (Is it more common stateside?) and I am impressed every time I use it. Revs so freely and always has more power than I expect, even pulling a 24" bar. The 61 is a good saw but pick up is slow and power not a patch on 268xp, in my humble opinion