Giles Hill

I've had a bit of a play about with map maker and it seems fairly user friendly. My main question would be can the information be saved in an autocad format? The demo only allows it to be saved as an image file.

They're just drawing tools - they don't make any descisions for you. It's up to the person inputtng the information to decide whether or not an existing structure is likely to have formed a barrier to root growth. In terms of accuracy it should be spot on - it only needs to deal with the simple formulas required by the BS. If you give a stem diameter of 500mm, then it will calculate a Root Protection Area of 113m2. If you give the wrong stem dia, then it will give you the wrong RPA.

Here's another one: http://www.keyscape.co.uk/Products/KeyTREE/keytree.html

Have you seen this product for comparison Chris? http://www.chrisskellern.co.uk/arborcad_site/arborcad_main.htm I've been looking for something similar myself - I'm hoping for something that allows you to adjust the graphic output - tree survey drawings can be hard to read if you get the wrong blue or grey, or the line types aren't right. Also some 'add on' programmes seem to take longer or become more fiddly than doing it manually through AutoCAD.

Air spades combined with mulches and soil improvers of various kinds seemed to be the answer to everything! He did back up his points pretty convincingly... A few things I remember off the top of my head: 1. He was suggesting that HF could be controlled quite effectively, by using the air spade to break up the ground (and the HF). The open conditions create conditions that are quickly colonised by mycorrhizal fungi (I think these were introduced) and the HF takes a while to recover and compete with the MF. Also the tree grows vigorously and is less prone to attack. (This made more sense when he explained it) 2. He basically said that HF can be controlled up until the point the rhizomorphs entered the root collar - after that the battle is lost. 3. They had done controlled experiments in enclosed beds that suggested HF takes a long tome to recover from the air spade treatment. 4. He reckoned the base of the tree up for a distance of up to I think it was 4 x the DBH was particularly important - it actually contains a lot of feeder roots and treatment of this relatively small area can have a lot of benefits. 5. He demonstrated how pesticides and 'nutrients' could be injected into trees and how in particular they can erradicate horse chestnut leaf minor for 2 years with one treatment - there was an obvoius concern that the minor would adapt, but it seems to be very effective from the pictures he showed - also using similar techniques to improve HC resistance to bleeding canker. And then there was root barriers... How trees manage to stand up when a service trench has been excavated next to the stem... Failure analysis of root plates... There was lots more, but I won't try write it all here! I don't think he'd claim to have the answers to everything, but he seems to be working hard to get there and it was great to listen to his ideas and results.

They look a good idea for private areas, but you'd have to consider scrotes nicking / vandalising them in public areas.

Thanks, I've got it sorted now.

Following the other thread, I'd like to further inspect an oak tree in Suffolk, using some of the techniques that were discussed at a Glynn Percival seminar I went to. What I'd like to do is air spade the earth away from the butress roots and then measure any decay using suitable electronic means. Where I'd like some help is I have neither the kit, nor the experience to use it... Is there anyone local that'd be interested in helping, or can anyone recommend a company and give me an idea of costs? I'd need to get it agreed with the client, but I think the need can be justified. PM if you like, I haven't used the PMs yet, so leave a note on this thread if you send one.

I went to this free seminar at Barcham Trees and found it very interesting, he discussed amongst other things, trials and successes to do with the control of honey fungus and also guidleines on how to assess and measure root decay. If anyones interested, he's coming back in October: http://www.barcham.co.uk/node/394

Thanks for the reply - I was wondering more about the canopy, but having just done a bit of googling I get the impression that the vascular systems of oak cope quite well with the infection and so decay / visual evidenc is usually limited to the base of the tree? http://www.enspec.com/articles/ENSPEC%20Research%20Paper%20-%20Ganoderma%20on%20Trees.pdf

Were there any external visual signs suggesting the presence of the fungi Monkeyd? i.e. Apart from the big hole.

I wasn't trying to put you off - the maintenance is fairly straight forward, you just need to allow enough resources to it -i.e. make sure you're paid enough! Keeping them watered enough is usually the main problem, particularly if they're planted in an exposed location - this is probably best avoided. You need to keep an eye on them though - they do give a little bit of warning through the foliage, but if you miss it they can deterioate really quickly and once they've had a set back, it can take a while to get going again. They may need further looking after beyond the first year too.

Very little - until there's a drought! Aftercare is the crucial part of establishing moved trees. A transplanted tree can go from looking healthy to being dead in a matter of days. Lifting and planting them is quick and easy job by comparrison.

There seems to be room for both and it sounds like they're both valued. So long as its done to some kind of considered strategy, rather than randomly planting 'interesting' trees.

That's the one I meant. It's got most things you're likely to find, outside of specalist plant collections - or it should get you close enough at least.

Collins Field Guide is fairly usable - it dosen't have pictures of bark though. I guess there's only so much you can fit into a small book.

I'm guessing here, but I'd think it was a sign of immaturity - lots of fungi curve upwards as they mature, basically they are fruit bodies and they increase the surface area of their undersides to open up their pores / gills to release spores.

It looks exactly like the picture in my Collins Gem book, which also shows it on top of a stump.

I know assumption is a dangerous thing but... Assuming most of the bracket is missing and it wasn't at the bottom of the tree, it may well have been collected by a gastro... The three fungi mentioned are all edible but I don't think Polyporus is very popular... The remains don't look red or beefy so perhaps not Fistulina... So given the above and the fact that the remains look a bit yellowy, I'll guess at Laetiporus too.

David, try negotiating newbie pay, plus company helicopter.

Once it thickens up, I think the shape will look quite effective set against the buildings, particularly if it's managed as a kind of informal sculptural cushion topiary thing.

Thanks Monkeyd, I'm office based, so it was a choice between pikey lady or a picture of me sat on a swivel chair. Don't follow this link, if you don't want to see zander lady or trouty man: http://www.dazbert.co.uk/sites/health/gallery1.php

If they're for your own use, they dry out pretty quickly next to a stove - you can get a rota going with tomorrows logs drying on one side and tonight's logs on the other.

It has to be... AC/DC Let there be Rock! [ame] [/ame]