muldonach

Milling with an 084 today (and last couple of weeks) photos show a 4.9 oversize spruce being cut to 150 x 100 battens for bog mats

Seems fine to me but not running the biggest bar in the world at 30"

Cheers

mac

cheers guys - obliged

Got an old Stihl 084 for milling etc - need a recoil spring for the starter but not having much luck in finding anything online - can any of you knowledgeable chaps assist with either a spring or information on equivalent units?

TIA

mac

On 04/07/2020 at 13:24, Melton Martin said:

I am using braid on braid 10mm polyester rope as recommended by the manufacturer. Yes, I pulling(!) hard to get the friction on the drum, and I have been using the recommended number of turns, which is 3 to 4 wraps around the drum - However, I will try more, but with too many turns around the drum I find the rope jams under itself then locks.......

 

I'll give it another go tomorrow and let you know the result......

As with many things there is a wee knack to using a capstan or a winch barrel end - you need enough turns to get the friction you need, you need a lead to the cheek of the barrel and not the centre and you need to keep an eye on the lead and if you are going to get a riding turn as you describe then you simply surge (stop pulling) the rope for a second to allow the turns to re-align on the barrel

2 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

Not much more to say really, I'm not familiar with your specific requirements so tried to give a general concept of deploying a heat buffer tank in conjunction with a wood fired boiler.

 

You could increase the size and heat exchange efficiency of some of your radiators to be able to run down the heat store further as underfloor is not a possibility.

 

I've been out of the business for over 10 years now.

Appreciate your comments thanks - and good one on the radiators although to be honest most of the upstairs ones are throttled right in so would possibly just need TRVs at one end and the other end opened right up.

Would I be right in thinking bigger is better for the thermal store?

9 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

No it isn't a thing to retrofit. How hot is the water in your central heating circuit? If it is to be the same primary circuit water as the heat store this will limit how hot the heat store can get and in turn, with the radiators limiting the heat that can be extracted from the store, affects the size of the buffer tank.

 

Heating the tank becomes a dilemma as when you re light the stove(s) you want all the initial heat to go to the house and then, when house is up to temperature, just bleed off heat into the buffer tank but keep it stratified so the high temperature is at the top and it heats from top down and not waste heat by keeping the bottom of the tank tank hotter than necessary.

 

A laddermate type device that keeps the water in the stove boiler above about 60C in the same way a thermostat keeps an engine warm will prevent cold water from the store affecting the stove.

 

 

We are a little bit at cross purposes I think - the only components of the system that I would prefer not to change if possible is the piping to the radiators - everything else can be changed without too much hassle. So we are looking at a brand new install as far as major system compontents and control goes

The present stove has 4 ports so one pair services the DHW cylinder as I understand it and the other pair service the central heating circuit although both outlets are at same temp. There is a thermostat on the side of the DHW tank which switches on the central heating circ pump at a set temp (or rather there should be - it has not worked in years and is manually switched). I have no absolute temp available - but the circuit gets PBH to the extent that the stove needs to be shut in at times - so boiler outlet temp can reach into 90's no problem.

Not sure where you are coming from with comments on stove lighting etc - I would regard that as design detail - but yes it would need to be addressed. The house is permanently occupied so the system is not going to be started from total cold on many occasions.

Central heating is via radiators - no underfloor at present and would be pretty major surgery to fit.

We live in a detached rural property approx 80m2 ground footprint and on two levels so total 160m2 floor area. The property is reasonably well insulated - half of it is stone construction with an internal dry lining which has 4" insulation fitted, the other half is of block construction with internal cavity wall the loft has 6" insulation, the modern part is double glazed and the older part has secondary glazing so we are happy enough with that.

For the last 25 years we have heated it with a Hunter Midi 20 multifuel with wraparound boiler and a central heating system which has been fine. The stove is in the lounge and exhausts into an old stone chimney (unlined) via 2m of 6" stainless faired into the chimney with a weak mortar mix. A second chimney runs up alongside this (presently unused). There is no other heat source available i.e. no mains gas and no currently fitted stand-alone gas or oil tank. The only heat storage presently available is a domestic hot water tank - well insulated but low capacity and no real heat exchange capability to the central heating.

The stove is well past its normal life expectancy and due for a replacement and the weakness of the system is the lack of heat availability in the early morning or evening if we have been out all day (less of an issue) so I am planning to change the stove and rebuild the chimney to a modern standard.

I would also like to fit a buffer tank to allow heat storage and provide for early morning heating, there is no space in the existingchouse to fit a decent sized tank nor is the house presently engineered to accommodate it or get it into place.

I have my own supply of timber and plenty of kit to process transport and store firewood, although the present stove is multifuel it has not seen anything but timber since the kids believed in santa - more than 20 years. We do not have sufficient space available for a chip store and feed system

I have space to build a gable- end extension of about 5 x 5metres and have previously had PP to do so, I am intending to renew that permission and fit  a buffer tank in the new extension. I am pretty confident that a decent sized stove in the lounge would provide adequate heat for the entire house but I am not sure that this is the best option going forward - I have the option to install a gasification log burner in the extension and use that as a primary heat source with a much  smaller stove in the lounge as either a roomheater or as a secondary heat source to the buffer tank. The extension would be built as a workshop with a heating system in it rather than a living space

So - questions:-

1. Given that a nominal 20KW stove (and in practice a good bit less) has given satisfactory results I am confident that that rating is plenty and we should be looking a buffer tank of min 1000 ltr with a natural tendency to oversize a bit I would probably be looking at 1500ltr but would appreciate any comments on capacity requirements especially from comparable houses.

2. If I go for a stand- alone stove in the lounge does anyone have any recommendations in the 15-20Kw range?

3. Any recommendations (or otherwise) on gasification boilers? I would be looking at 20Kw size?

4. If I go with a boiler in the extension I would be looking at an approx 5Kw stove in lounge as roomheater or a larger stove with boiler hooked up to buffer. They would be serviced by separate chimneys, - comments welcome.

4. Does anyone have any experience of hooking up two fueled heat sources to a buffer tank - any problems to head off?

5. Anyone out there got a case study of any similar project?

4 minutes ago, Will76 said:

Thanks for your reply. I didn't quite follow your response. Are you saying a processor or a rocking beam circular saw would be very dangerous?

 

on point 2. Will a processor take quartered rounds?

what you are apparently looking for is something to cut a small amount of excess length off - processors and circular saws generally have an end stop that you butt the timber end up to and then push it against or activate the blade - in the example you give there will be 25cm of timber on one side and 5cm on the other - the snag is that that 5cm piece is where you (or the machine) would normally be holding or pushing the timber - you would be using the machine in a different manner to that intended and your hands are likely to be far to close to cutting implements.

2 - if it will go into the splitting chamber and engage with both ram and splitting knife it will be fine - but it is also a bit tedious.

3 hours ago, Will76 said:

Thanks for replying. It is arb waste, of all kinds of lengths and diameters.

 

I think I understand how I will deal with long lengths that have a diameter suitable for processor machine. That seems easy enough.

 

However a lot of the wood is in rounds of various lengths and diameters.

 

I guess I have two problems that are vexing me:

 

Let's assume I require logs that are 25cm long.

 

1. Rounds that are say 30cm long and have a diameter that fits in a woodcutta. Can something like a woodcutta take a series of 30cm long rounds and then cut to 25cm, for feeding into a splitta? 

 

2. Rounds that have a diameter too large for a woodcutta. How does one feed these into a woodcutta? Split them into quarters first? Will a firewood processor deal with quartered rounds?

 

Sorry we're newbies at this and doing some research before we invest in any way. Sorry for the dumb questions. I am sure there will be more!

 

 

 

 

1. You need a jig that one end of the log can sit against while you cut the excess length off - you can achieve this by using a rocking beam circular saw  or a processor - but it is a seriously bad idea and very dangerous in my view - make a jig you can throw your rounds on to with a length indication that will not get in the way of a chainsaw - don't put a lot of time into it because you will throw it away pretty quickly

2. Hit it with an axe or run a chainsaw through it

On 05/05/2020 at 10:29, blackeyeler said:

I'll take it that logs jamming in and against stumps during retrieval will also put undue tension /torsion on the rope?

Logs jamming against stumps will cause an increase in tension - but since your wire is sized for first layer pull it will not be undue unless you go at it bald headed - what it will do is cause a rip-down on the winch drum if there is loose laid wire to rip down into.

What will cause a sharp rise in tension is getting a log moving and horsing it into a stump with the winch flat out

The tension in the wire tries to straighten out the strands - if you put a swivel on the end this effect will be magnified as the swivel allows the wire to unlay.

On 05/05/2020 at 13:57, blackeyeler said:

I have found a reference to the rope  7x19 IWRC 103 metre from Rope Services direct. Is this suitable for Igland 55?

Yes - 7 strands - one as central core and the other 6 laid up around the independent wire rope core - each strand consisting of 19 sub-strands - good general purpose wire rope with good wear & deformation resistance

On 02/05/2020 at 10:38, blackeyeler said:

New member here. I am trying to find a reference in the forums to wire rope fouling , twisting and coiling. The kit is an Igland 55 winch and I am constantly having to cut lengths off the wire rope due to coiling. Any one able to point me to a discussion? All help gratefully received. Blackeyeler.

It's caused by pulling the wire through the sliders under tension and at sharp angles - i.e. slider a bit out of line / twisted - as others in the thread have said if you leave a few links of chain between log and slider you can mitigate it a bit,  when you set up your drag try to set it up so that it pulls logically and avoid back pulling if that makes sense - i.e the swage end should be at the furthest away log, second slider next one etc etc

Langs lay is just a bit more flexible than RHOL - the more fibre you have in a wire rope the more flexible it will be but conversely it will be more prone to deformation and damage and less hard wearing

Helps a bit if you do not overfill the winch drums - less prone to ripping down and overcrossing

On 28/04/2020 at 16:16, difflock said:

That eternal conondrum!

The machinery you need do do even a little, is generally also sufficient to do a lot, whether you want to or not.

Kinda like being "a bit pregnant!"

Cheers,

Marcus

You need to be real careful of woodburning stoves and firewood - you never know where you might end up

I am at work today and will be tomorrow and for the forseeable future .............

There is currently no way back from Saudi Arabia and no way for anyone to get in to relieve me so I guess I am staying for a while.

We have had mixed results with the bags - they let the logs dry ok but some of them really do not like UV and we have had several where we only get one use out of the bag which makes them pricy.

Moving to IBC cages as and when possible

As others have said use a pallet between each bag and don't make a tight stack - let the wind through

Yes no problem as long as you refer to SW Scotland - they are out at roadside

Here's one we did earlier - all extracted by quad over a bridge we built on site

I read through 30 pages of a pretty interesting thread (sad but not too much else to do at the moment)

And then got to the last page where it all went south, to go back to forestry here's some low impact stuff

For 15m3 a year a chainsaw and a decent axe are plenty good enough

19 hours ago, Mull said:

 

Yup, the same principle should apply to every “dirty” industry, no doubt about that.
Fish farming will continue as it is, it’s too valuable not to, yes they will try and clean it up, even the the measures for treatments etc creates hundreds of jobs.

My objection was to the suggestion it shouldn’t be happening because a few toffs weren’t coming on holiday.
I don’t have figures, but living and working here I can see the massive difference the industry has made to people and the economy of this area in the last 30 yrs.

The suggestion is not that it shouldn't be happening because a few toffs are not coming on holiday.

It should not be happening the way it has been allowed to happen because it has completely decimated the wild salmon and sea trout fishery of the entire west coast of Scotland. Open cage fish farming as presently practiced is vandalism on a grand scale.

It provides employment to approx 8000 people of whom 1450 are in primary production ( the farmers), and the remainder in processing and marketing. What effect it has had on angling tourism is not quantified.

Whats on my bench today?

560 - exhaust loose, thread damage on one bolt, heat shield blown, gasket gone

346 - not running well - looks over rich, new spark plug may be all that is needed

339 - not oiling, stops every time you touch the throttle from idle

Stihl 038 - just needs new chain & bar

141 - no start

not tried the 084 yet - may leave that until I get a running saw

On 02/01/2019 at 22:54, Mull said:

Toxic is toxic bikeguy! Whether that be a vehicle or a fish farm, employment and economics are fairly important, maybe even as important as us all having a vehicle? Infact.....

Give it up old son - fish farming is totally unsustainable in environmental terms - it needs to go to full containment - end of story.

Land farming has (quite rightly) been more and more held to account over both direct and diffuse pollution over the last 20-30 years the same principle needs to apply to fish farming.

Look Mate - we are going for a walk!!!!

Attack Spaniels on standby