muldonach

Why are hedges OK??, IME Hawthorne and Blackthorn are for worse to deal with than barbwire.

Hedges are good because they offer shelter to domestic stock and habitat to wildlife. We rejuvenate them bu cutting back and fencing to protect the regrowth, hopefully able to lay in a few years time

Cheers

mac

Blimey, ok, believe it or not, I was wondering what to do with all the rushes in my garden. seriously, the lawn is being taken over by them. I tried digging them up even wondered about herbicide which I hate.

I guess I'd need to make some kind of underconstruction from switches or something?

Improve the drainage in your lawn or garden, apply a good dose of lime at max 2t/acre, apply a high nitrogen fertiliser in spring / early summer and cut the damn things regularly.

Digging is a waste of time, herbicide is expensive and needs a weed-wiper if you want to target the chemical, neither treats the root cause of the rashes:blushing:

If you are looking for high quality thatch we have a few acres of norfolk reed you could try:thumbup1: - but you will need a good pair of wellies!

Well you know I have to admit that although I can remember watching my grandad and some of the old boys thatching ricks when we still used binders and threshing mills I had a bit of a problem taking notes:-

I had not actually learned to write at that time:blushing:

So while I think you are right that you will need a sub frame - I will have to hope that there is someone more knowledgeable than me on the subject to offer detailed advice.

Cheers

mac

In the Netherlands, barbed wire for stockfencing is not allowed. As a consequence leather from Dutch cows is exported at a premium price to mainly Italy for pretty bags and such. It commands a (much) higher price due to the lack of scarring from barbed wire or "them flies what lay eggs in boils in cows skin".

 

In Australia the fence what most of us would consider quite large areas with just plain wire, but then I suppose over there "the grass is just as brown....":biggrin:

 

 

I had to shoot a horse once after it had caught it's mane in a barbed wire, got distressed, got more stuck, more distressed, panicked and freaked out and broke 2 legs in addition to the horrible (but superficial) skin and flesh-wounds. Now it probably was not the best fence, or the smartest horse but without that barbed wire there it would not have happened.

 

 

There is just no need for it, it can cause animals harm and distress and there are perfectly fine alternatives:confused1:

I dont have much experience of the Netherlands other than the area between Rotterdam and Amsterdam but most of the field divisions I have noted have been wide deep ditches in pretty flat ground, there may be plain posts and wire between them but I have not noticed it. That ground is not similar to much of the UK and certainly not similar to my little patch.

We have had one wire incident caused by a cow getting tangled in a plain wire and ending up in a ditch. It ended up with a dead cow.

Not seeking to be contentious but we are not in the business of putting stock at needless risk. We use barbed wire because we see it as the best tool for the job we need to do.

Cheers

mac

I don't have a Campbell problem myself. It's the culturally disabled dinosaur bawbag whiskey drinkers that seem to hate them to pieces.

 

Anyway, back to firewood piles. I'm not really happy with my solution with topping them off. I'm trying to think of something waterproof that folks chuck out. I don't really wanna spend any money on it, especially not since I became a Scot anyway.

Cut some rashes and thatch 'em - ticks every box - plentiful, natural, sustainable, recyclable:confused1:free (if you have the right ground you may even get a grant for cutting them!)

Sorted or what jimmy??

I have been a member of the forum for just under a year now and have picked up a few good ideas, because, although I have been cutting firewood for myself and family for over 45 years, (God, is it really that long?) you are never too old to learn something new, especially about handling and storage. I started with the Fergie saw, moved on to the chainsaw and axe, and now have the tractors and logsplitter, evolution you might say.

 

I have never posted anything before, mainly because I've never had anything useful to contribute to the firewood forum. Until now.

 

I have never, for a long, long time read such utter racist rubbish as the following:

 

 

 

For a start, I have been a Scottish Nationalist all my life. So that makes me a "whiskey drenched racist Dinosaur bawbags who wanna splurt nationalism"[/I]?

 

Scottish Nationalists believe that Scots should determine their own fate. Simples. Now, we may make a mistake or two along the way, but they will our mistakes and up to us to rectify. When we do make mistakes, you can laugh by all means. But we will learn from those mistakes and move on.

 

Even if he could actually change his nationality, he never will be Scottish. Why on earth would he want to change his nationality? Ashamed of your own nationality? Residence does not determine your nationality. I could live in England for 30 years, but I would never become English, I would always be a Scot.

 

"some pockets of ancient Caledonian (non crap) forest I could show you if you don't mind spending a day getting there in a canoe" Well, I can take him in my car a few miles, open the door, walk a couple of paces and touch a Scots pine. Why would he get into a canoe? Maybe we are so backward that's the only mode of transport we can use?

 

"A fair portion of the Highlands remains "Frontier country" even in this day and age. You can still stub your ribs on a dumped tractors steering column diving into a Loch." By the way, no crofter dumps a tractor in a loch. If it can be driven to a loch, then it can still be used. You will find them rusting away in fields, usually because they have been used as a donor tractor for spares. It's called recycling, yes, even in the "Frontier country". I'm sure the locals would love the description.

 

Oh, and if you really want to be Scots, Mr Baker, then do try to spell whisky properly. And one further thing, I am a Campbell, and very proud of it.

 

Sorry for taking the post off track.

Well for a first post it was worth waiting on - dummy is most certainly oot!!

Cosmiccrofter - don't come back as a trout!

Pick your pathway through, identify the large local bramble rootstocks, chop-em then do a spot application of amonium sulphamate:confused1:

Is Sulphate of Ammonia not a straight nitrogen fertiliser? I seem to recall reading somewhere that applying round-up at a higher than normal concentration is effective on briars but obviously you need to force or chop a pathway first before you can walk along with the sprayer. Still once you opened a pathway it would keep things open. We had a similar problem but regular use of the tractor and now a once a month pass with a quad mower keeps things clear and we have nothing like the slope you have.

Don't even think about goats unless you have a good rifle

Pigs would do the job I believe but would clear everything else as well - and probably do that first! I assume you have fences?

If you put sheep in they will not leave a bramble leaf they can reach - they love 'em - but you would need to wait till after they are sheared before you put them in.

Get yourself a hook and work away at it a little and often

Cheers

mac

We put barb as the top strand to stop cattle from rubbing on it, any unprotected post particularly strainers is rapidly adopted as a scratching post and will not last long under such treatment.

I claim no vast experience but wire injuries around here result from slack wire or occasionally some half daft beast jumping (normally within 10 yards of an open gate!). It does wind me up when people leave old fences in and discard rolls and lengths of wire in hedge bottoms etc.

Hedges - sorry but useless in terms of stockproofing and nowadays of decorative / wildlife value only. There is no hedge in the shire that does not have a fence or drystone dyke to back it up that I am aware of. I am not disputing that they can be made stockproof but they cannot be maintained stockproof on a sensible timescale without regular hand maintenance, sheep in particular will happily eat the bottom out of them. We have rejuvenated old hedges as part of RSS in the past and it a condition that they are fitted with a stockproof fence on both sides.

Our standard fence consists of 800mm mesh with the large mesh at the bottom so the pheasants etc can get through but charlie cannot and two strands of barb, one stapled at the top of the mesh and one 6 inches higher. We dont put any gap between the mesh and the first barb so that any animal jumping and putting a foot through does not twist the hoof between the two strands and hang the beast by the back leg - normally a roe.

It costs £6.60 per metre to supply and erect a good tight fence in these parts, and we have not had a wire injury caused by a tight wire in the last 10 years so it would take a bit of persuasion to convince me that we are doing much wrong!

Cheers

mac

I reckon Treemon is quite correct not to disclose his trading figures on a public internet forum.

 

The data he's given is a good indication of the scale of his business, the figures should only be disclosed in private to those genuinely interested in buying his business.

 

Otherwise, for example, his existing customers may decide his margin's too great and go elswhere, his competitors may find a way to underbid him;

and as to what happens if his wife finds out the real figures........

Quite right and fully agree - I would not put actual figures up either but an indication of the health of the business and the way it is headed would be essential in considering its value.

e.g. there is mention of I think 200 customers if that is the same as or more than it was last year it denotes a healthy business, if it is half of what it was last year then it is a different matter altogether.

In days gone past we have looked at other businesses and it is reasonably common to see a comment like:-

"Sales up 10% year on year over last 3 years, gross profit margin 8% (steady over last 3 years".

Cheers

mac

What is it you are actually proposing to sell? You have listed a series of individual assets which I am sure with a little research you could put an individual and cumulative value on.

What you do not mention is the business as a whole - is turnover / profit margin / customer base growing or shrinking over the last 3 years?

Sorry if I am being dense but are you looking to sell a going concern or are you looking to shut up shop and break the business up?

Cheers

mac

The resulting development project (coded Romulus) produced the 300Tdi engine. Although externally very similar to the Discovery/Range Rover version of its predecessor, 208 changes were made. These included modifications to the block, cylinder head, fuel injector system and ancillary systems. The crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods were significantly altered over the 200Tdi.[69] The most obvious external changes were the fitting of a rubber acoustic cover over the engine to reduce noise and the change to a single serpentine belt to drive the ancillaries instead of the multiple V-belts of the older engines.

From Wikipedia

Cheers

mac

 

 

''''A purchaser will be asked to enter into an overage agreement where 50% of any uplift in value on granting of planning approval and where the land is either sold or developed will be due to the vendor, this to last for a period of 25 years.'''''

 

 

Riverside Wood, Rowlands Gill, Gateshead, Tyne and Wear | Northern England | Forests.co.uk

As others have already said that is what the vendor is asking for (bit cheeky if you ask me) - what you offer does not have to be the same.

But make very sure that you and your solicitor fully understand one another when you submit a formal offer.

regards

mac

How much £?

With apologies for the belated response I think we would be talking in the region of £500, cash on collection and VAT receipt provided if desired.

Cheers

mac

I took a seized 346 into a dealer who works with both brands- his opinion is that the 346 is crap!

He's got one customer with a 346 who is now on 4th piston and our one has had a flywheel let go after 50hrs.

never used the 260

Cheers

mac

Single drum 3 tonne norse winch propping up one of our shed walls if you are interested. Not been used in a while but was working fine.

Butt plate is removable and the top of the frame is notched to take skidding chains.

Winch is not fitted with a brake but has non - return pawl and ratchet arrangement.

No photos at the mo but can arrange if there is interest

I would suggest that he puts it out to tender

cheers

mac

If you need a land rover there is nothing better:thumbup:

If you don't need one you certainly don't want one!

Cheers

mac

now on third landy and unlikely to change anytime soon!

Got called out to deal with a tree this morning (Sunday) that part of the crown had fallen onto a roof in high winds last night.

 

Had to take down the whole tree as was dangerous but now I need some idea as what to charge.

 

Do I add extra for emergency call out and working Sunday?

 

Client will be claiming on her insurance, so any ideas would be helpful. Not used to invoicing without quoting.

Make out an invoice for a good but not excessive normal rate, detail all your time & costs etc.

Double it - either a straight multiplier (double time or call out charge plus time and a half etc etc.)

Call round and see your client and deliver invoice by hand, if it is an insurance claim the insurance company will have a fair idea of emergency call out rates.

It sounds like your action has probably limited the damage to your clients house so it is unlikely that the insurance will quibble, if they do they will probably appoint an independent assessor who will be conversant with working rates.

I am not advocating that you overcharge the insurance but you should certainly charge them a fair market rate with an easy conscience and double rates for an unplanned sunday call out does not seem to me to be unreasonable. If they are unhappy with the rate they will query it - they will certainly not increase it.

Make sure your client understands that the invoice is prepared on the basis that the insurance will pay, you may well find that they will wish to discuss the deductible with you.

In the event that the insurance refuse or contest your invoice you can always discount it to your client.

Cheers

mac

It's not that unusual to tow 3.5 tonnes with a Defender is it?

No it isn't but you will most certainly know that you have a fair load behind you and it is sore on the land-rover. We have changed the rear cross member in all the land-rovers we have had as they start to pull out after prolonged heavy towing.

It is perfectly feasible but not something you want to be doing all day every day

Cheers

mac

What price do you value a leg at?

You can buy the cheap ones as long as your girl is good with a needle and does not mind mending them because the stitching will fall apart in short order, or you can spend more money and get a pair that will not actually fall apart the first time you wear them.

Stretch Airs get my vote - never touched with a needle yet (2 yrs old)

Cheers

mac

Any other ideas - I was speaking to a Husq dealer today as I handed in a seized 346 for diagnosis.

I have priced a 560 from them but mentioned this thread and I am assured that the problem is due to a faulty autotune system!

Looks like there is more than one theory around.

Cheers

mac

You guys must have better eyesight than I have - I have really struggled to read the articles they have printed on the DPM backgrounds and lost patience with that one in particular.

Cheers

mac

Hi all,

 

I know its not quite a firewood query, but I figured someone may know something about Biomass in general...

I did some work on a dairy farm last year, and by way of an experiment we used Miscanthus grass as bedding for the cattle (it was being sold cheap because the biomass plant that was meant to use it broke down).

this got me thinking, since Reeds (or to some people rushes) are the bane of every small sheep farmers life, is there any way that reeds could be used as a source of biomass fuel the same as Miscanthus is? if so is it worth cutting, drying like hay, and baling them up?

 

there is a field next door to us, 4 foot tall with reeds and I'm sure if I offered to take them away the farmer would be delighted!

 

Picture below to see the sort of plant I mean, so theres no confusion.

 

P.s. ignore the sheep .

He certainly would be delighted, the plant you are talking about is juncus (soft rush) it can be baled for bedding but before taking it on you may want to check the price of putting double wheels on your tractor, have a good chain and a second tractor readily available and make sure that you have a good low ground pressure trailer available. They do not normally grow in good firm well drained ground.

You may also consider taking a look at the stone outcrops in your photo and considering the effect of hitting one with a running mower.

The answer to your question is yes it can be cut and baled like hay - it makes decent bedding - biomass - no reason why it should not work in a straw bale boiler - but straw bales are normally easier to get!

Cheers

mac

The FC do exactly that except that the purchaser has to arrange haulage - ask the enquirer if they are experienced in chainsaw operations and quote them a price.

Get the money up front - the FC do!

hi guys in market for forestry tractor, apart form jas,wilson ,any other suggestions?

talk to your local agricultural dealers - Wilsons are not the cheapest place in the world to buy tractors