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Husqvarna King

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Posts posted by Husqvarna King

  1. I prefer not to top out a conifer thats staying.

     

    You don't normally have the room....and even when you do you could break one of the laterals that is supposed to be left....and it may ruin the shape.

     

    I tend to get as high as I can and dismantle the laterals.... then section/reduce the main stem to a decent lateral so tha it doesn't die back.

    Thats spot on:icon14:

  2. Where was the "no stress light" on the Mog or chipper?I understand some Tractors have a device that will increase the revs if the attached device draws the revs down underload.My Mog has none of that.

    Yeah,I'd say that the 1450/1500 rpm range is about what I'm currently running the CH160 on.What a titty system for adjusting the anvils.Spent ages fine tuning them the other day,only to have the anvils"modify" the leading edge on the blades...bugger.

     

    eah modern tractors have a device that not only adjusts the revs but also the injector pump to help keep the desired revs under load

  3. do you mean the rev counter on the mog dash? the mog could be/ should be doing more than 1000rpm engine speed to give 1000rpm at the PTO, like i said Flails/chippers on modern tractors require them to be pretty much flat out 2200/2300ish RPM, and they have a pto speed in the cab too

  4. I asked the same question when i worked on a farm, we had a 24 metre sprayer that wasnt classed as an ag vehicle but as a "special" this meant it could be driven on the motorway etc etc even though it only did 30mph:scared:....A unimog can fall in to the same category, my old forestry contracting boss had an old 1982 mog, we used to take it to Baddow/Hanningfield in Essex and always got our spares and there were several in there for breaking etc, the guy knew his stuff too

  5. I feel sick now:scared: Have no saw scars (as yet touch wood!!) but had to have a blackthorn cut from my calf a year or so again...that was deep, job to see the scar now though

  6. You can do a downward back cut AND leave a "conventional" hinge.

     

    I meant a conventional back cut....also on Leylandii re-growth the stems are thin, spear cuts are good for these too (as taught on NPTC)

  7. if the stem is that thin then you can cut and hold, or cut and snap, if it is too heavy then you should be able to bore cut and leave a conventional horizontal hinge, I dont see any need for a downwards back-cut, it is bad practice

  8. I used to use a Spearhead long reach flail for the guy i worked for before going self employed, i once managed to get a whole chainlink fence (that was rolled up and grown over) wrapped around the drum!!! was a total nightmare, bolt croppers and wire cutters would do nothin as it was so tight...but the gas axe worked a treat!:wave:

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