niftysteve

Steve

As this thread is about Arbtalk this has just appeared on my of screen

It's never happened before

these salso sell biocide ive just had to put in my mog as the filters were totally clogged

seems to have worked so far

Search Results for 'biocide' | Smith & Allan stock a wide range of oils and lubricants for car and motorcycle engines. Buy online now.

ive just put my 5 inch entec on ebay v twin kohler petrol engine

still runs and chips well

I'm sure someone a while back was talking about sucking heat out of their hot room (room with wood burner in!) and blowing it through insulated pipes in the loft to the bedrooms.

 

Anybody got any ideas on that subject? are there companies that make specific kits for that type of application?

 

reason i ask is that we have a bungalow, lounge gets boiling, bedrooms gets freezing so we still have to have central heating on to warm the bedrooms.

 

seams crazy when i have a shed load of wood!

 

getting a bigger wood burner with back boiler and re plumbing the house I'm sure would be prohibitively expensive.

i fitted a stove for friendswith a brand new eco house this has a whole house ventilation/heat recovery system of some sort fitted where it takes heat out of the say the kitchen when cooking filters the smells out and makes an even temp house

We've moved to the countryside and have what we were told is a wood burner. I think it might be a multi fuel as it has a riddle plate, bottom air slide and an ash tray which I didn't think you got on wood burners.

 

Is there anyway to tell for sure. It's also the one thing they didn't leave us a manual for

 

I'm happy if it is wood as we have enough for at least one winter, but would like to know if we can stick other stuff on, maybe got later on to try and keep it on overnight

you might find a data plate on the back of the stove if its fairly new if not get a pic on here im sure someone will be able to id it

Do you normally use vermiculite on an internal chimney? Apart from the insulation advantages presumably it will keep the liner steady when its swept.

if it is a large enough chimney then yes when putting a liner down an existing clay lined chimney its near on impossible as the liner fills most of it

you dont have to insulate but it can make the liner work better

if you dont use vermiculite but use a pot hanging cowl they have a small air gap allowing an un insulated lined chimney the vent

Incorrect, there are loads of 6" flue Defra approved Stoves, here is just one. Firefox 8.1 Cleanburn Multi-Fuel / Wood Burning Stove - DEFRA Approved - All Stoves - Stoves Are Us

 

Where do you get your info?

 

 

 

Hardin backer board IS suitable as a closure board, I never said it was suitable as a register plate so I'm missing the point of your post completely?

my info came from the guy teaching the hetas coarse 4 1/2 years ago

when fitting a stove you should use steelto close off the chimney (register plate) as if anything drops down the chimney it would break the hardi backer board and the use of a 5 inch liner is only permitted if using a defra stove with a 5 inch outlet if the stove has a 6 inch outlet defra or not it can only be used with a 6 inch flue

you cannot go from 6 inch out of the stove down to 5 inch liner

Im also a qualified HETAS installer and have never had any problems with stoves i have fitted when i have my yearly inspection

316 twin wall flue is perfectly fine and now comes with a lifetime guarantee from some places. The difference is quality of stainless steel, nothing else. My father had a 316 in for 18 years before it rotted through. He has an 18kw back boiler stove burning smokeless coal aswell as wood and any general rubbish he has. All his wood is self sourced generally unseasoned and usually conifer or some old bits of fencing, skirting etc. He doesn't have any other form of heating in the house so it's on 24hrs a day in the winter.

 

A register plate is for open chimneys in order to create a seal so the chimney has sufficient draw.

 

A closure board on a flued chimney will stop the heat going up and the crap coming down. Hardiebacker board is perfectly suitable from B&Q or Tilesrus for this purpose and is a concrete based waterproof board that is quite easy to cut.

 

All of these questions are answered in the Stove Fitters Manual online.

 

My building regs sign off cost nothing as he was already in inspecting for an extension.

hardie backer board is not suitable,register plate should be minimum 1.6mm thick galvanised steel

also when fitting the angle iron use the plugless concrete fixings (thunderbolts or similar )as the heat from the liner could melt a plastic plug

Yes 904, 904 twinwall is what you need for multifuels, 316 is just for gas. You need to install the liner and have a CO monitor now, it's part J of the building regulations and yes you do need a certificate and a plate to show the flue has been installed correctly,

 

HETAS registered installers can self certify this or you pay building control to pass it. HETAS installers cannot certify work done by others.

 

Also make sure a 6" (150mm) as even with a nominal 9" flue it can be a problem getting round corners. It's only the smallest burners (<5kW I think) that can use 125mm flexi pipe.

 

Also it's directional so make sure it's the right way up and only feed it down from above.

 

Alcydion will be along to quote the regs.

you can only use 5 inch flue if it is a defra approved stove

Hi

 

A quick question for those of you who sweep. What vacuum do you guys use?

 

Any recommendations would be appreciated

 

Many Thanks

the guy i fit stoves with is also a sweep i he uses one called a sturdy vac like the one on the left on this link

chimney_vacuums

Will having the same discussion at the moment.....

 

Me and my dad decided one evening that we would cut out our old fire place and guess what the liner was still installed from the old boiler!!

 

I have been told this can't be used and has to be stainless steel!!

 

A bit of magnet testing and it is stainless steel....

 

So went to the stove shop and asked the man can we use existing liner he said ohhhh no we have to fit it...

 

I wasn't too convinced so I downloaded the hetas install regulations and basically if the smoke test is acceptable it's double lined stainless steel then I think your good to go..

 

Going to get signed of by my local installer through.

 

Hetas guide lines below

 

http://www.hetas.co.uk/wp-content/mediauploads/BFCMA-General-Guidance-10-12-12.pdf

chances are that if it was fitted to a boiler it will be the wrong grade of liner probably single wall flexi ,this is not suitable for solid fuel, twin wall flexi liner either 316 or 904 is what you need as this is rated upto 650 degrees

It's funny reading all those figures. Buy a new Dodge Ram if your concerned about economy. Everybody laughed at me when I bought one but had them since 2009. Replaced it will a new one last year and get 17 mpg out of it all day long, it may drop to 16 if I tow 3 ton up the mway at 60 all day. 400hp of 5.7 litre hemi under the bonnet really doesn't struggle. She runs on lpg at cheaper than half the cost of petrol and depreciates less than you could imagine. Last one had 165'000 miles on in 5 years and depritiated 9 pence per mile. Compared to the last navara I bought in 2006 that lost 18 pence per mile. Only problem is you constantly get asked 'what do you get to the gallon mate?' Or where's the tanker? Following? Hahaha'. They normally shut up when you give them the facts or they look at their chelsie tractor and mutter something along the lines of loosing that when they drove of the forecourt.

Have you ever asked a navara or rodeo driver what they used to drive to be told ' a Dodge Ram, but this is better' nope thought not!

i can agree with you here i changed my 3 litre rodeo 2 years ago to a diesel dodge ram 2500heavy duty the last 2 years i have towed a 30ft trailer to southern germany the on board mpg gives a reading of 14

Acacia tree surgery

Acacia Tree Surgery

well we've got a 1999 Mitsubishi shogun V6 petrol with automatic gearbox , just recently the gearbox has developed a very noticeable whining once its warmed up that doesn't subside unless the vehicle comes to a stop , guess its going to be expensive or does anybody know of a cheap quick fix ? the gearbox oil is up to level and right colour .

theres a breakers i have used for parts for my shogun pinin that are pretty good at getting the parts out quick

look up MITZY BITz

heres a link

Mitzy Bitz

the guy i fit stoves with uses this system

Home

seems pretty good the rods even sweep some of the awkward set ups people have with AGAS

Based on the Renault master and the Vauxhall movano. 2.3 diesel. I think they do a 150 bhp version.

if its based on the renault all of the variants with the same engine and gearbox did have problems with power steering racks going faulty and also gearboxs breaking as they were fitted with a car box rather than a van one

4 steel road pins also work well

Want to put a couple of [grab] hooks on my loader bucket but cannot find anyone in the UK that seems to sell this type

 

I'm sure they must be available.... any ideas?

Buyers Products Weld-On Grab Hook-Fits 3/8in Chain #B2409W375 | eBay

nfu at bury st edmunds are helpful

Been asked to re gravel an area in front of a posh block of flats. I've measured the area but I'm useless at working out how much gravel is going to be needed. What is the best way of working it out

1 ton of 20mm stone will cover an area of 15 square metres at 35mm cover

i think ben burgess at norwich hire one out

Ben Burgess & Co - Horticultural and Garden Equipment Hire

these are a decent arc welder

ESAB Buddy Arc 180 Amp Inverter Stick / TIG Welder 240V | eBay

I have heard of izettle. What fee do they take? I'll take a look tomo...

the fee varies depending on how much you put through its 2% ish to start with

ive just got a card machine they take a percentage depending on how much you put through it

it does need an internet connection and juust plugs in the headphone socket on an i phone

check out

https://www.izettle.com/gb

There is always the 'mechanical option'; use a stump grinder and/or a decent mattock. I have dug out many stumps using both methods. No poisoning involved and if you dig deep enough you can replant straight after.

same here usually dig out with the digger and ripper tooth