Brushcutter

11 hours ago, TreeDB said:

Thanks, that is a great help. I've been looking at the 583 on their website. Going to try get to one of their southern demo days in September and see what the craic is. 

Give them a ring and they have some good relationships with people and they can quite often arrange for you to go and see one nearish you. 

4 hours ago, TreeDB said:

Been having a look lately at buying a Botex after a quite a few years out of the game due to ill health.

 

What is everyone's opinions nowadays on the trailer / crane combo? Are they still as good as they used to be. I had an old 5050TL back in the day that I got second hand and was a gem to work with.

 

Also looking at their new Mantis product that for the pruning. Thoughts? Don't want one but seems to be getting a controversial opinion online. Some love, some hate. Not sure why the divided opinion myself. 

I think the newer botex cranes are much better than the old ones. Everything is just more polished and a lot more options than ever. I've used the 5050 the 560 on the roof and the trailer. 570 on the trailer and the 580 on a trailer. 

From the piano leavers on the 5050 to the pilot electro hydraulic on the 580tl. The lift capacity is still good and the build quality is nice.

For big timber I do like a botex but they are slow compared to a farms Kronos or any of the other scandi cranes.

Depending on what you plan on doing with it if you could find a used gen 2 farms 12 tonne or even a 9 it's probably a better forestry trailer. If you do big hardwoods the straight bolsters and near 3 tonne lift is hard to beat.

1 hour ago, adw said:

Yes it is, we did use it at the apf last but one show, drew a lot of people onto the stand.

There are only a few intact ones left apparently. I've never actually seen one before. 

On 21/07/2025 at 14:18, adw said:

254FG from the eighties, and my 42 special , plus very early chain spinner.

Is that the inflatable wedge,? 

Yes it's normal. Horrid things I don't know why Stihl still sells the things. 

PPE is the last line of defence something has gone very wrong if your cutting your trousers/ boots. A failure of many other steps. Mainly adminstrative thing like work breaks and welfare facilities to reduce fatigue, timescales and deadlines to prevent rushing. Operator refresher training and experience. Level of supervision for the operation adherence to best practice. The HSE would be all over this step well before they cared about the trousers rating. As FISA 301 states no  PPE Can give 100% protection against cuts with a chainsaw.

I did wear class 2 trousers for a few years just because they were on sale. They were ok. Not much less flexible than my gladiators. That I had before and after.. only ever worn Haix protector pro boots and they are class one. 

Mk 1 husky saws were bad on the restart when hot. They work better if you follow the hot start process of putting the choke on taking it off so it starts at half throttle. 

My MK1 was bad for it especially in the summer. Eventually it went in for repair and it has a new carb under warranty, which was the issue. What was wrong with it exactly I can't remember. 

Tank breather isn't blocked is it?

As far as I am aware there is no NPTC or Lantra award for milling in general. 

Your chainsaw mill would be covered by your chainsaw maintenance and cross cut as the power source.

I once did a band saw course which I got sent on and the guy who did it knew less about band saws than milling than I did. He was expecting a little workshop resaw as that's all he sees. A Robinson's resaw and a stenner 41 were too far out his comfort zone so I felt we showed him more than he showed us. So specific training for band saws and table saws exists.

As the PUWER requirement would be to show suitable training did you get any from the machinery suppliers. If not maybe see if they could do you something?

The other option if a local training provider would be willing to do a certificate of training. Then you have something to show people. 

2 hours ago, Tim Ashburner said:

If working on school grounds (outside), either remedial work or tree surveying,  what's the consensus about the need for a DBS either in term time or during school hols?

Depends on the school. One school I go to every contractor has to have an enhanced DBS. If you don't no work. Blanket policy. Some places they you have a minder.

If you need an enhanced DBS the school have to do it for you. It costs them rather a lot 250 quid I think. Once it's through you can sign up to the update service and it keeps it up to date for 38 quid a year. I do this so they can just check me if they need.

Way I see it if the staff need checking the contractor do too. You just charge accordingly don't you. 

Post code lottery. Having things like drive and garage make a difference.  

My insurance is sky high as nobody else around here bothers with it....

2 hours ago, AHPP said:

 

To what base product is marketing added to make that? I've just used petrol and brushes before.

Disodium Metasilicate

1 hour ago, Oldfeller said:

well it turned up this afternoon, well what a piece of crap! it was probably a decent saw before he got his hands on it! chain is junk,as is the bar,sprocket,chain brake is broken, and the whole thing is encased in baked on oil and sawdust that looks as old as the saw itself, you have to keep it in a bucket there is so much oil leaking from it! I didn't even start it, you can tell the guy wasn't that hot on cleaning or any form of maintenance by the state of the car he arrived in, which broke down yesterday hence the arrival today, and only just started after about 5 minutes of cranking it over when he left,, he seemed quite put out the local dealer had said he didn't really want it as a trade in, but would knock a tenner off a new one. it was obvious why once you saw it.

346/357 leaked chain oil like it was free. It's just a little seal on the pump that's normally the issue.

Seems like your going to have to spend some money putting new bits on it. Bit of Stihl varioclean should clean up the outside.

A very good saw. Had the option of running .325 or 3/8 chain you just had to change the sprocket and the plastic bit that went in the worm gear that the sprocket sits in.

Didn't really suffer with spitting out exhaust bolts the way the 346 did,.or at least that was my experience. Although replaced by the 560 the 550 feels more like it's direct comparison. 

Price wise modern saws are silly money. Second hand saws are also silly money. I think at it's youngest it's going to be nearly 15 years old I think! I wouldn't want to pay more than £200 quid for it but I think £300 would be a more realistic figure nowadays 

Check Amazon. I recently picked up a triple pack of 14" Oregon 3/8p 1.3.guage 91vx I think l. For just 18 quid. So at £6 each I can't argue. Just come in a Oregon branded bag in a cardboard box of 3.

Thought about a BCS? serious money but seriously flexible. You can change between a rotary and flail mower and other bits. Downside the flail is only 80cm. 

I've got a little Aldi chain grinder. It's ok. Cheap and cheerful for how often I use it. It looks like a cheap copy of the basic Oregon grinder.

I've used the fancy Oregon one with hydraulic chain clamping. It's the one to have in the Oregon line up.the Stihl one is also very good but once you've added on all the extra bits it's very expensive. But these things do last forever so and you can charge people to sharpen their crap chains and blades.

Of course you could always import a simington grinder from the US and get a mess about converting it to run of 230v vat import duty shipping. It will make all the other grinders look cheap. 

13 hours ago, handymidi said:

Hi what insurance do I need for Tree Felling and Groundwork? 

 

I know it will be Public Liability but are there any prerequisites? 

 

Do I need Chainsaw Qualifications or anything else to get insured? 

 

I have a Climber for bringing down trees. 

 

But I want to be insured for felling trees, ground work and clearing. 

 

Thanks 

 

You need employers which is the only legally required insurance for the climber that works under your instructions.

Public liability is optional but you would be a fool not to have it. Most insurance companies will do a combined el/pl policy. Worth having tools insurance depending on how much you own. 

As for certs of competence I had to provide the company all my certs. And I have to hold a copy of my subbies certs just in case.

On 17/05/2025 at 08:14, Alasdairs said:

I have a 240 I took the drain plug out 2 years ago with no problems (probably never been out before that) put in a new compression washer and refitted the plug with no problems.

A couple of months ago noticed another leak and this time the internal part in the tank now spins. I had hoped to get another tank but they are no longer available from Timberwolf.

Did you get any further with your leak?

If theses guys. Are close 

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They have plastic welded quite a few leaky spray tanks for me over the years 

If you don't do a lot a combi unit is great and some weird tools only fit on a combi. If you do a lot then purpose built tools are a lot better.

When I first got one it got used loads as a tiny strimmer and a long reach hedgecutter. But what happened was I then worked out I needed those two tools and it just because a pole saw.  On the petrol ones the vibration is higher than the purpose built equivalent.

I've got a husky combi which came with the little strimmer which is great. I also have the edger and the power brush. Very uelseful bits of kit that only go on a combi.

With the Stihl ones I think all the old petrol attachments fit on the new battery combi. 

On 08/05/2025 at 21:47, Mark_Skyland said:

Ha, you could be correct there. I tried to order some 564XP saws and I couldnt! Ill speak to our rep and see if we can get a decent ETA.

 

APF '27

Forestry days are better paced than Arb days. If I'm felling trees I know how many to the fuel tank how long that is.

I'm not diabetic but I've always worked on the assumption if the saw is thirsty/hungry I am too. So rather than stopping for lunches and breaks throughout the day. I stop every tank of fuel eat something drink something quick pass with a file and crack on. Next tank might be 5 trees and then you eat and drink again. 

Natural foods like fruits especially banana is good for work foods as are nuts. Try to avoid fizzy drinks, but I love a fizzy pop or two through the day. 

23 hours ago, 5thelement said:

I have four 550’s running either 13” or 15” bars on narrow kerf, 18” runs fine if sharp, I certainly wouldn’t go any bigger. 
Looking forward to the new fuel injected Husqvarna 564xp which is currently being demoed at the show in Germany, the weight of a 50cc but the power of a 70cc.

I've now seen enough husky saw launches to not get excited. How many shows did the 540 592 go to before anybody actually got one? Must of about 2 years from the apf with the 540mk 3 rear handle before anybody saw one, in this country at least. I want the 550ixp and the 564 I'm sure it will a while before we can get our hands on one. Lo

I wouldn't put bigger than an 18" on a 550. I only use a 15 on mine. I have an 18" on my 560. Using an 18" on a 550 won't kill it but it is a little slow and sad same can be said for 20. But if you use your 20 blunt it will kill it quicker. I'd be tempted to run 1.3mm guage rather than 1.5 to keep the power up.

Is it the same spec hydraulic oil. Iso 32 46 etc. I once changed the oil in a chipper and used the tractor UTO. It didn't work very well. 

The arborist 150 is also a good chipper. Not as good as the Evo. I quite like them especially the vertical rollers. The downside is only one roller moves so feeding on the static side is a pain.  I think I'd have the 230 over the green mech arborist 150. But the evo165 over the 230. 

Get a demo on the 165 you won't be disappointed.