1d10t
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I will recheck the cylinder again to see if there are any markings, but I THINK it was mahle. The ground wire is secured, I checked it when vac testing about 2 weeks ago. The switch is assembled fine too and works as intended, choke, high idle and removes high idle when throttle is pressed. I'll talk to my dad about the cylinder again, he assured me that only piston was changed at the dealer, the only other cylinder was the amazon one which I now have in the basement and was fitted couple months ago (and got a piston ring caught in one of the very nicely cast ports...). As for the spark plug, it should be mostly the same, no? it is the same length as the original. it was either that or a new oem cylinder which is worth more than the saw currently and the stalling issue will remain since it was the same on both cylinders. The saw actually runs and starts fine (1 pull from cold today), the only issue is stalling whewn hot. As I said, I'll see if spark plug insulation helped when I can get into the woods again.
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As for the fuel lines, the one most damaged was fuel return line which I think was rubbing on throttle cable, that could've been due to improper installation or maybe it slipped out of clips some day. But the spark plug wire was definitely damaged by being squished between top cover and cylinder. I cut a part of the top fin off now so it shouldn't rub anymore.
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I think cylinder is Mahle which should be the original OEM part. If different parts were used, then it was funny dealer business, because they were the only ones to touch the saw except my dad and I. Was told that piston was replaced in first 2 weeks after new, but warranty was declined due to bad fuel apparently (which I still don't believe was the cause). Originally I thought that whole cylinder was replaced. Everything else should be the original except the stuff I mentioned (filters, lines). Haven't had the chance to try out the saw after the fix yet as we have some bad weather now, hoping for a test run in a week or so. I was hoping to take a look at coil-carb wires too, but I can't find out where they go, they're not in the same place as mk2 and they're not between fuel tank and crankcase, seems they are INSIDE the crankcase??? I read somewhere that they were prone to grounding on the crankcase and in future revisions were modified with extra insulation. Since the saw was bought in early 2014, I think it's one of the first batches made so probably had some issues. But i'm not sure when they were first made.
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It is kinda weird though, spark plug cable is chafed in at least 5 points, both old fuel lines were also chafed almost through in several places... The saw is old but it's not like it was used through the year every year... I know it was used for about 3 months in 2014 (several hours every day) but otherwise it's on average of 1-2 months a year and not every day of those either. Certainly not enough to explain all this damage? Maybe these molded lines are just too soft.
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As far as I know that's the original cylinder. It was replaced this year because the original had stripped spark plug thread, but the replacement turned out to be kinda crappy and so we just rethreaded this one and put a bigger spark plug in. Otherwise everything except fuel lines, gas and air filter, primer bulb, piston and gasket is original. As for top damage, I don't think there is anything else that could've caused it other than spark plug cable. The cover basically squishes the cable to the cylinder. The shutoff issue was happening for couple years now.
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So I checked out the wires and as you can see in the picture, the edge of the top fin is actually damaged due to spark plug cable chafing on it. The cable itself was chafed almost (but not quite) down to the wire. I suppose it could be causing a misfire when hot and pressed to the cylinder? I have put some heat resistant insulator tape on it and will see if it fixes the issue. Is it safe to cut a part of the top fin off to prevent future chafing or will it trigger overheating problems? The rest of the cable is chaffed almost to the wire in other places too (clips that hold it), but there is only plastic around elsewhere.
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I only checked for scoring on exhaust side though. Also, the saw now starts great every time even right after shutoff. Cold start is like 3 pulls with choke on, then 1 pull most of the time. Right after shutoff issue it's always 1 pull so I assume it's not flooding? If there was scoring I assume it also wouldn't start at all when hot.
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I vac tested the saw with the intake boot off because I didnt have a way to block off strato and main ports well enough, but the test seemed fine except the gasket. I also replaced impulse and return lines along with the primer bulb (had issues with fuel too). The cylinder had no scoring yesterday, since the saw was run hard for couple hours for at least 3 days since I swapped the piston, I'd assume there'd be scoring if there was an air leak present. I'll try to just disconnect the off switch somehow and run it like that for a bit and see if it has shutoff issues again.
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For the carb cleaner, thats a no go, I already had air leak problems and replaced head gasket since then, doesn't seem to be anymore leaks. From what is happening (saw will just cut out instantly, as if it was turned off rather than flooded/leaned out and will also instantly start back if starter rope is pulled - no difficulty at all) it actually does seem like an electrical issue. This has actually been happening for some years or so I'm told (not my saw) but only when saw is hot. Also, how sensitive should the kill switch be? It's one of those push down to kill, up and out for choke, up and out and then back to normal position for high idle switches. Right now the switch needs only be touched and thee saw will shutoff. Could be that when hot, the metals will touch without pressing the switch?
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Mark 1, about 10 yrs old, 10 and a half I think.
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Would it be instant with bad seals? When it's hot and I tilt it, it's literally like I hit the off switch, the saw just dies in less than half a second. Must be a pretty bad leak then.
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Hello This has me stumped, I have a husqvarna 545 that starts and runs great (starts 1 pull everytime after warm). However, after getting hot (like after cutting down and trimming a pine tree, basically running hard for at least 5 minutes) it will start to instantly die when tilted forward or sometimes even when tilted to either side. It happens instantly when tilted and it still restarts 1 pull instantly afterwards. It happens with fuel and oil tanks full, so it's not the fuel pickup line (and the line is not pinched in the tank, I checked). I tried spraying at various points with a brake cleaner after warming it up at home (but it wasn't hot), at the gasket, side transfer ports, intake boot and even in oil tank, there was no hesitation. Any ideas on what could be the cause?
