1d10t
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I would but i'm not from UK sadly probably would cost more than that in postage EDIT: would be great for the case as well since brake handle mount is broken 🥲
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Thanks, will disassemble again. Ground was attached last time I checked. I'm still somewhat hoping it's not the coil as supposedly it should be hard to start too afterwards, but it's one pull start everytime after dying.
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Worth looking into tank vent too? I did additionally have issues with fuel pumping which wasn't solved by new fuel lines and purge bulb. Basically sometimes the purge bulb would just stop working and just pump air.
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Regarding spark plug: the cylinder in the picture (original cylinder) had it's spark plug thread stripped. Bought a new cylinder and the same shutoff issue was still present, but it eventually got a piston ring caught in the rough port edges (twice). Rethreaded the original cylinder for a bigger spark plug after, which is the one in the picture. Had to also grind down the nut on the spark plug to make it possible to tighten. Since the issue was happening with two cylinders and three different plugs, i can PROBABLY eliminate a spark plug problem. I'll check out the cables first, then I'll disconnect the kill switch and tape over connectors. I won't be changing the coil as it's too expensive.
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Or I could try to check carb wires too if I can find them, but those shouldn't be damaged since they're hidden.
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Starts back instantly yes. If it's coil or carb, I can't do anything either, both are way too expensive to buy for this saw, no point spending 200 euros on something that might or might not fix the issue. If it was a non autotune saw, I could just swap over a different coil to test, but here... If I understand it right, it needs to be fitted and coded by the dealer, I can't even find any replacement coil online.
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Had some more trees to cut today and the problem reappeared when the saw was decently hot. Didn't even need to turn it to the side, it just cuts out instantly sometimes (for example when putting it into wood). Won't be putting anymore money into it, it will just be a secondary saw for occasional limbing. Almost looks like compression is so bad that it just doesn't have enough when hot. When measured (though my compression tester is a budget one) it was only 85 psi, compared to new 365 xt's 120 psi (assuming tester shows like 20-30 psi lower than it should).
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I was only able to cut about three 50cm stumps and some smaller (10-15cm) logs before dark, but it seems to be working fine now, there is no stalling at all and I was rotating it every possible way every minute or so. Unless there really is an oil tank leak and it doesn't happen with full tank. Will see once I have more (and bigger) wood to cut, but then I'll probably be using a 365 for that.
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I will recheck the cylinder again to see if there are any markings, but I THINK it was mahle. The ground wire is secured, I checked it when vac testing about 2 weeks ago. The switch is assembled fine too and works as intended, choke, high idle and removes high idle when throttle is pressed. I'll talk to my dad about the cylinder again, he assured me that only piston was changed at the dealer, the only other cylinder was the amazon one which I now have in the basement and was fitted couple months ago (and got a piston ring caught in one of the very nicely cast ports...). As for the spark plug, it should be mostly the same, no? it is the same length as the original. it was either that or a new oem cylinder which is worth more than the saw currently and the stalling issue will remain since it was the same on both cylinders. The saw actually runs and starts fine (1 pull from cold today), the only issue is stalling whewn hot. As I said, I'll see if spark plug insulation helped when I can get into the woods again.
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As for the fuel lines, the one most damaged was fuel return line which I think was rubbing on throttle cable, that could've been due to improper installation or maybe it slipped out of clips some day. But the spark plug wire was definitely damaged by being squished between top cover and cylinder. I cut a part of the top fin off now so it shouldn't rub anymore.
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I think cylinder is Mahle which should be the original OEM part. If different parts were used, then it was funny dealer business, because they were the only ones to touch the saw except my dad and I. Was told that piston was replaced in first 2 weeks after new, but warranty was declined due to bad fuel apparently (which I still don't believe was the cause). Originally I thought that whole cylinder was replaced. Everything else should be the original except the stuff I mentioned (filters, lines). Haven't had the chance to try out the saw after the fix yet as we have some bad weather now, hoping for a test run in a week or so. I was hoping to take a look at coil-carb wires too, but I can't find out where they go, they're not in the same place as mk2 and they're not between fuel tank and crankcase, seems they are INSIDE the crankcase??? I read somewhere that they were prone to grounding on the crankcase and in future revisions were modified with extra insulation. Since the saw was bought in early 2014, I think it's one of the first batches made so probably had some issues. But i'm not sure when they were first made.
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It is kinda weird though, spark plug cable is chafed in at least 5 points, both old fuel lines were also chafed almost through in several places... The saw is old but it's not like it was used through the year every year... I know it was used for about 3 months in 2014 (several hours every day) but otherwise it's on average of 1-2 months a year and not every day of those either. Certainly not enough to explain all this damage? Maybe these molded lines are just too soft.
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As far as I know that's the original cylinder. It was replaced this year because the original had stripped spark plug thread, but the replacement turned out to be kinda crappy and so we just rethreaded this one and put a bigger spark plug in. Otherwise everything except fuel lines, gas and air filter, primer bulb, piston and gasket is original. As for top damage, I don't think there is anything else that could've caused it other than spark plug cable. The cover basically squishes the cable to the cylinder. The shutoff issue was happening for couple years now.
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So I checked out the wires and as you can see in the picture, the edge of the top fin is actually damaged due to spark plug cable chafing on it. The cable itself was chafed almost (but not quite) down to the wire. I suppose it could be causing a misfire when hot and pressed to the cylinder? I have put some heat resistant insulator tape on it and will see if it fixes the issue. Is it safe to cut a part of the top fin off to prevent future chafing or will it trigger overheating problems? The rest of the cable is chaffed almost to the wire in other places too (clips that hold it), but there is only plastic around elsewhere.
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I only checked for scoring on exhaust side though. Also, the saw now starts great every time even right after shutoff. Cold start is like 3 pulls with choke on, then 1 pull most of the time. Right after shutoff issue it's always 1 pull so I assume it's not flooding? If there was scoring I assume it also wouldn't start at all when hot.
