Chain/bar throwing sparks

[Eddy_t]

Stuff buying a stihl ms170/171/181! Buy a husky 236/240 or a 135/140, much better saws IMO, better built for maintenance

 

 

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[SteamedTomatoes]

Wow, a lot of posts here now!

First of all, I've not yet been able to properly check to see if the problem is fixed yet since I've been bogged down in college assignments, plus the weather hasn't been that great so I've been hiding away indoors lately. I did clean it up though, checked the bar for burrs again etc etc, then put the saw back together and found the oil was coming out fine, but not on to the bar any more thanks to the incredible build quality of the slipper plate which I think had bent out of shape or something, so I made a cardboard gasket and fixed that (touch wood).

 

Yeah, the saw wouldn't be worth the cost of a new chain/bar. I took a look briefly when I got it and it looks like I could get £30+ for it on Ebay, which isn't too bad really for something I wouldn't pay 10p for. (It's 33CC but weighs as much as a 346xp, and for all intents and purposes, it's 100% plastic)

 

and some loon will buy it

 

I take it you are sharpening it between rocks? not just hammering on with a blunt chain otherwise sparks will be the least of your troubles, get yourself on a cs 30 course it will give you a good grounding in understanding whats goes wrong, why and how to fix it

 

p.s your pic is scary

 

I had actually just been hammering the chain since I don't actually have a sharpening kit yet. Infact I think at the point I made this thread I hadn't even been taught how to sharpen a chain. And anyway, the saw cost me nothing so I figured it doesn't really matter if it ends up knackered, plus I've got that spare chain (which I'm now using. Much nicer than one with anti-kickback links in it).

I am aware that that's very bad for the saw, though I should probably at the very least for the time being pick up a CS30 book from somewhere and get myself properly clued up on stuff.

(Regarding the picture, I've had several comments before on it being creepy, and yeah I guess it kinda is! It's a combination of the Fonz and the MSN duck)

 

Regarding getting a different saw, I'm watching Ebay at the moment in the hope of grabbing an 017 or MS170 listed as for spares or repairs. Failing that perhaps an MS180 if it's nice and cheap. I'm aware that buying a saw from Ebay without being able to look at it is risky, but I'm willing to take that risk, and I'm not going to spend masses of money on a single item either. As for repairing a saw, it's something I've never done before (aside from replacing a recoil spring once) and as such would be a useful learning experience; half the reason for getting a broken saw.

 

Stuff buying a stihl ms170/171/181! Buy a husky 236/240 or a 135/140, much better saws IMO, better built for maintenance

 

 

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What is the general take on things regarding which make of saw to get for what? I've heard from one person that Stihl is better for constant day in, day out use, but that Huskys are better in some other way?

I'm very new to looking at chainsaws in any real detail, so I'm also only just learning how the naming of them works too.

I'll be getting a Husky 140 (if memory serves) from my uncle some time soon. Just need to arrange some way of getting it from Cumbria down to Kent... Maybe when/if I go to CANW Weekend in the Woods this year?

As far as MS170s go, I've used an 017 so I've got an idea what they're like.

 

Alright I think that's enough rambling from me right now. I think I've covered everything there.

[joshscott]

Stop hitting stones and mud with it...... That should help.

[Eddy_t]

Generally the homeowner huskys are larger engined, more powerful and lighter, price is generally cheaper too, the husky range starts at the same price, but the cc is about level with the ms211. The k095 mount used by husky is also the most common one, so finding bars and chains is easy too!

 

 

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