Thinking of having another go with the woodmiser

[gensetsteve]

Would appreciate some advice from some seasoned millers. Used our wood miser LT15 for about an hour and give up. I need to plank up poplar to put through our automatic up cut saw then through the kindlet. I give up due to the waste and time taken about a year ago . I am thinking of going for larger buts say 15-20" and using the slab wood as well. We tend to make neat kindling with no bark content but pop the bark drops off when seasoned. My upcut saw takes about 250mm x 70mm max but in 4m lengths is that too heavy to be efficent to lift about. How would you go about carving up the butt considering accuracy does not matter and what size would you make the planks.

[agg221]

I haven't tried to do what you are doing, but my initial thought is as follows:

 

I would start by separating out on size. Up to 15" as one grade, over 15" as the other.

 

On the smaller grade I would calculate my first cut by measuring the base diameter, then subtract 10" and divide the remainder in half. I would skim this much off the log, then roll it by 180degrees so the skimmed side was face down, and skim the same off again, leaving it 10" thick. I would roll this by 90deg, then slice off 70mm slabs ready for processing.

 

 

On the larger grade, I would measure the base diameter and split them in half. Anything over 20" I would skim off one side only, down to 20". I wouldn't bother rolling as they're that much heavier and also, being a larger diameter, it's less wasteful as the curvature is less. I would then take a 10" slice off, leaving another 10" slice behind. I would take each 'half' in turn, stand it up on edge and take 70mm slices off, as above.

 

I would make sure that the band was really decent, and in good condition. It might dull and start to wander quicker than it should, due to grit in the bark, but if you're getting your wood fresh enough it may pay off to de-bark with a spud before milling, as then the band should go on virtually forever in poplar.

 

As to weight, I would keep the section as full as possible, try a full 4m length and if you find it's too much, take the length down to what you can handle and then just cut all logs at that - it will take too much time fiddling about deciding what log length you could manage from every individual possibility.

 

A starter for ten...?

 

Alec

Edited October 12, 2013 by agg221

[gensetsteve]

Thanks for taking the time to write that I know how long it takes to put a post like that together. I think I have a good understanding of what your thinking. I think I understand enough about the mechanics of the machine to stay safe and not damage anything. Just need to make it efficent. What is a spud ?. I will get a few butts on this week and give it a try.

[agg221]

Thanks for taking the time to write that I know how long it takes to put a post like that together. I think I have a good understanding of what your thinking. I think I understand enough about the mechanics of the machine to stay safe and not damage anything. Just need to make it efficent. What is a spud ?. I will get a few butts on this week and give it a try.

 

Hi Steve, you're welcome:001_smile:

 

A barking spud is a thing like a giant slick type socket chisel with a 6" wide blade. Oschenkopf make them and they can still be bought new in the UK, without the handle - there are several videos on youtube of people using them but basically it's about scraping along the line of the bark to peel it off in big strips. When the bark is loose you can peel over a foot width in a pass, which could reduce it to a few minutes on your logs. You would have to see whether it is quicker to do this beforehand, or to pick the bits of bark out afterwards when they fall off. It should also significantly increase band life.

 

Alec

[gensetsteve]

Hi Alec

 

I see what you mean about the spud good idea especially if it keeps the bands sharp longer. I have been messing around with different samples of pop and found older larger butts grown in forest have less knots and are more willing to let the bark go in some cases it just falls off. I think the bark falls of larch ok as well. Apart from the bark problem other species like douglas, western red cedar etc I think would be just as good.

 

Steve

[agg221]

Just had a look, Clark Forest do a Bahco spud for £23 inc. handle. Not as elegant as the various Oshenkopf models, but should do the job.

 

Debarking Iron | Logging Hooks and Tongs | Clark Forest

 

Alec

[Rhob the Log]

I looked into these debarkers. They used to sell them on green shopping apparently. Anyway, found these 2 spuds here:

Muller Debarking Spade | Woodsmith Experience | Woodsmith Experience. For specialist, handmade, woodworking tools.

Bark Spud | Woodsmith Experience. For specialist, handmade, woodworking tools.

 

The 2nd only has an 1 3/4" head which seems a little small. The 1st is 5". The one Ben Law uses is a lot longer and wider in the head from the looks of it. Still £59 for a long duck-billed chisel...

 

You wouldn't have the debark the whole log gensetsteve, only where the bands travelling so hoik onto the bed then debark from the end opposite the powerhead. I always use a yard brush on any logs loaded onto the mill. It's not perfect but it gets the worst muck off.

[gensetsteve]

Thanks for posting those links I feel new toy maybe this week. I have a few loads of this pop too small for the mizer and some of it a bit spongy. I was thinking of pressure washing it but the neighbours think I am mad already.

[gensetsteve]

I have some nice big butts of pop in about 8ft long. Some of them taper out to more than 2ft which is the max for my WM lt15. How would you reduce them I am thinking of chainsawing them free hand to get them past the frame or am I mad. Will post some pics soon should be good for a laugh.