Oak milling questions

[Pltreesurgery]

You can order a mill of the website - but register on there first, then tell me and I can set a 10% discount on your account then.

 

 

I'd go for a 36" Alaskan mill, ripping chain and precision grinder and stones - sharp chain is everything with chainsaw milling.

 

 

You could have a go milling that branch but if I were you go and see Big J - he'll no doubt have some timber there you can practice on and the experience and info you'll get off him will be invaluable.

 

Cheers rob ! Will go on and have a look at the prices etc , will be in touch, picking the 066 up next week hopefully

Cheers again

Paul

[Big J]

Weekends are fine Paul - at this time of year, if the weather is reasonable, I am probably at work. I have about 30 odd tonnes of roundwood in the yard at the moment, so you are welcome to come and mill something here.

 

If you would like to PM me with contact details, we can go from there. This weekend and next are out, but after that I should be around.

 

Jonathan

[Pltreesurgery]

Pm sent Jonathan , cheers mate !

[agg221]

I agree with all the comments about the branch moving more than the main stem, but I've milled a fair number of heavy oak branches for crooks for boat frames and although they move it isn't excessive (maybe half an inch, usually twist, in six foot?) More suited to outdoor stuff than fine cabinetmaking, but the Alaskan doesn't exactly lend itself to making thin boards for the latter anyway. If it were me, I'd take up Jonathan's offer first, then go and have a go at the branch. I'd cut the straight, thick section, roll it so the bit that used to be the top was upwards and mill as close to the heart centre (middle of the growth rings) as possible first, then take boards off each half.

 

The curved bit I would only mill the two slabs closest to the heart (one off each side) if I wanted to use it. I'd roll it to present the flattest face possible upwards and hence get the maximum curve. Take a look at this thread for ideas what can be done with such pieces:

 

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/48742-bench-help.html

 

I used a 36" mill on a 36" bar, which by the time you've allowed for the clamp position inboard of the roller nose on one end and the dogs on the saw at the other only gives you 27-28". If you take the dogs off you can squeeze another bit, so an absolute maximum of 30" or so. I've run this through at full width and it was OK if slow. In theory this makes the 30" mill a better fit, but in practice you might as well get the 36" as you can then run it on a bigger saw if you ever get one.

 

Alec