Walnut

[Rhob the Log]

You reckon? 1.5" thick, Walnut downed 2 weeks ago. Figure they may take longer to dry.

 

But yes, nice for chopping boards I'm hoping!

 

Also, think my Oak stack of the same is case-hardened. Is it worth re-milling off the tops and bottoms (they're 2" thick) - have a friend with a Lumbermate - or could I thickness them off? Cheers Rob

[agg221]

 

Also, think my Oak stack of the same is case-hardened. Is it worth re-milling off the tops and bottoms (they're 2" thick) - have a friend with a Lumbermate - or could I thickness them off? Cheers Rob

 

What size is the oak, and what size do you want it to be?

 

If it's short lengths (i.e. chopping boards) it will dry OK through the ends. Not as quick, but still fine.

 

If it's too long for this, do you have a moisture meter? If so, you could take a board, measure the surface content, and then plane a bit off, re-measure etc. and see if you get a sudden jump. If so, case hardened, if fairly uniform once you've skimmed the first bit off, with a gradual profile, it's not.

 

If it is case hardened, whether to re-mill or plane would depend on the depth profile you see on the moisture content (tells you how much you need to take off). If it's a little and you want thick boards you could plane it. If it's a lot and you don't mind thin boards you could re-mill it (assuming they're long enough to fit the mill clamps).

 

Alec

[Rhob the Log]

What size is the oak, and what size do you want it to be?

 

If it's short lengths (i.e. chopping boards) it will dry OK through the ends. Not as quick, but still fine.

 

If it's too long for this, do you have a moisture meter? If so, you could take a board, measure the surface content, and then plane a bit off, re-measure etc. and see if you get a sudden jump. If so, case hardened, if fairly uniform once you've skimmed the first bit off, with a gradual profile, it's not.

Cheers Alec, sounds a good, scientific method. The Oak is in various sizes but for the most part 30" width and up to 50" lengths. Stack 1.2m

[Alycidon]

My wife's parents are in Northampton too, so I can appreciate how much nicer it must seem over there. Northampton itself is a special kind of dive!

 

I live near Northampton, like most towns a few dodgy areas agreed but most is ok. Spend a lot of evenings delivering logs there in the winter.

 

If thats a dive there are a whole lot that I have lived in that are worse, Luton for example.

 

A

[Rhob the Log]

What size is the oak, and what size do you want it to be?

 

If it's short lengths (i.e. chopping boards) it will dry OK through the ends. Not as quick, but still fine.

 

If it's too long for this, do you have a moisture meter? If so, you could take a board, measure the surface content, and then plane a bit off, re-measure etc. and see if you get a sudden jump. If so, case hardened, if fairly uniform once you've skimmed the first bit off, with a gradual profile, it's not.

 

If it is case hardened, whether to re-mill or plane would depend on the depth profile you see on the moisture content (tells you how much you need to take off). If it's a little and you want thick boards you could plane it. If it's a lot and you don't mind thin boards you could re-mill it (assuming they're long enough to fit the mill clamps).

 

Alec

 

Sorry, pressed send a little early. There's no waney edge on these boards so am going to try and router some interesting patterns to make them more attractive. Consequently I don't want thin boards. I'll try and plane a few back a touch rather than mill if possible. The MC is ~28 at the moment so it looks as if there's no case hardening in most. However, some are still at 40+ having only been extracted after 7 months from a sunny glade. These are the ones I'm not as sure of as the colour's gone a lighter shade and when I've trimmed them down they're a rich cherry red. Will see what happens and hope they dry down for now.

 

I don't have a thicknesser yet so would mean paying a joiner to use his. Ho-hum... Cheers for the info!