Stihl 024 air leak

[ihatesaws]

If by any chance there are others out there crazy enough to want to take apart (or more importantly put back together) the stihl 024/026 there is an eight part series here on how to do it:

TheInfoworks's channel - YouTube

 

It is only a shame I found it today. It would have been really useful for me starting out. I suppose an even more useful video though would be how to do the ms290

[ihatesaws]

I put oil first on the flywheel side and instead of the vacuum going from 0.5 to 0.4 bar it went to around 0.45. I then turned it over and put the oil on the clutch side and brought the pump back to 0.5 bar. After 15 seconds of turning it didn't drop. Then I kept on turning and after a bit I could hear the oil being sucked in and the gauge needle dropped dramatically.

 

When I bought the new carburetor I remember reading their recommendation to replace the crank seals as well in order to be able to adjust the saw correctly. I bought them at the time but the old seals seemed to pass the pressure/vac test and it seemed an awful ordeal to replace them.

 

I don't have expensive pullers. Does this mean I am going to be drilling holes and sticking in screws so I can pull them out or am I going to put the crankcase in the oven so it expands allowing the seals to be easily removed?

 

At least we seem to be getting somewhere at last (apart from the asylum).

[spudulike]

If by any chance there are others out there crazy enough to want to take apart (or more importantly put back together) the stihl 024/026 there is an eight part series here on how to do it:

TheInfoworks's channel - YouTube

 

It is only a shame I found it today. It would have been really useful for me starting out. I suppose an even more useful video though would be how to do the ms290

 

Yes - that would be a three hour vid then:001_rolleyes:

[spudulike]

I put oil first on the flywheel side and instead of the vacuum going from 0.5 to 0.4 bar it went to around 0.45. I then turned it over and put the oil on the clutch side and brought the pump back to 0.5 bar. After 15 seconds of turning it didn't drop. Then I kept on turning and after a bit I could hear the oil being sucked in and the gauge needle dropped dramatically.

 

When I bought the new carburetor I remember reading their recommendation to replace the crank seals as well in order to be able to adjust the saw correctly. I bought them at the time but the old seals seemed to pass the pressure/vac test and it seemed an awful ordeal to replace them.

 

I don't have expensive pullers. Does this mean I am going to be drilling holes and sticking in screws so I can pull them out or am I going to put the crankcase in the oven so it expands allowing the seals to be easily removed?

 

At least we seem to be getting somewhere at last (apart from the asylum).

 

Lever the little buggers out, just make sure that you dont damage the seat or the crank surface, I have drilled them before but you may well get debris in the bearing, you can puncture them with an awl and lever them upwards using a suitable fulcrum pivot.

 

Sorry - I've got the Stihl tool, just pulled the seals on a MS460 in around 15 mins:001_tt2:

 

Photo is of my 357 earlier this year:thumbup:

[ihatesaws]

I was able to get the clutch side seal out easily enough with something i made to resemble a paint can opener but the the flywheel side has me stumped. It is too small to fit the tool in I used on the other side and any smaller version I make is too weak as the metal is so thin itjust bends when I pull. I've been trying with an awl I made out of a screwdriver. At this stage the rubber near the crankshaft is in bits with all the puncture holes. I am able to get the awl in under the metal part of the seal in a few places but even if I pul upwards with all my might the seal won't budge. The metal part is stuck to the crankcase. I've sprayed wd40 in to try and loosen it up but no effect so far. I'm reluctant to try and squeeze something down between crankcase and seal as I would be scratching the case. Is there some kind of stuff that would be good for disolving whatever sealant is between the case and the seal?

 

I've been reading elsewhere on the internet that this particular seal was the one that convinced them to buy pullers.

[spudulike]

I was able to get the clutch side seal out easily enough with something i made to resemble a paint can opener but the the flywheel side has me stumped. It is too small to fit the tool in I used on the other side and any smaller version I make is too weak as the metal is so thin itjust bends when I pull. I've been trying with an awl I made out of a screwdriver. At this stage the rubber near the crankshaft is in bits with all the puncture holes. I am able to get the awl in under the metal part of the seal in a few places but even if I pul upwards with all my might the seal won't budge. The metal part is stuck to the crankcase. I've sprayed wd40 in to try and loosen it up but no effect so far. I'm reluctant to try and squeeze something down between crankcase and seal as I would be scratching the case. Is there some kind of stuff that would be good for disolving whatever sealant is between the case and the seal?

 

I've been reading elsewhere on the internet that this particular seal was the one that convinced them to buy pullers.

 

Mmmm the joys of working on saws:lol: One thing may put you off the pullers - the £100+ price tag they come with - Got mine off the bay for half of that for the reason that I got fed up with pissin about in my workshop for hours on something as simple as removing a bloody seal:thumbdown:

 

The one on the flywheel side is a small little critter to be sure - the seals will be a push fit and have no sealing compound to loosen so are just an interferance fit to the crankcase.

 

You could try mashing the thing up to get it out but don't damage the seat or crankshaft - if you do that it will leak through the damage! A pair of quality pliers may just haul it out or a thin screwdriver - good luck with that one!

 

You could ask your local dealer and buy him a drink!

 

Thats why I invested in the pullers - putting some tools and money back in to what I do! Burrell liked them - did his 076 free of charge:thumbup:

[spudulike]

Havent heard from "Ihatesaws" for a while, hope the saw is well on the way to being mended??

[ihatesaws]

I wasn't able to get the seal out. Maybe you would like to taunt me with yet another photo of the pullers?

 

I was already beginning to scrape the edge of the crater in which the seal sits with what I was using to try and lever it out. I was only going to cause more damage so I gave up. I am waiting for a hook and pick set like this one before trying again:

http://www.mxsouth.com/bikemaster/bikemaster-other-tools-tool-packs-wraps-4-peice-mini-hook-and-pick-set_1.jpg

 

I read about one guy hitting a kind of bushing down around the exterior of the seal crushing it inwards so it could be pulled out. I would be afraid of driving the seal further inwards and of scratching the crankcase but I suppose it is not as important to not damage the case as the crankshaft as the new seal will be static against the case and any scratches between them will be sealed with the hylomar applied to the outer diameter of the seal before insertion. I suppose I shouldn't hammer a screwdriver down between the case and the seal though

[spudulike]

I wasn't able to get the seal out. Maybe you would like to taunt me with yet another photo of the pullers?

 

I was already beginning to scrape the edge of the crater in which the seal sits with what I was using to try and lever it out. I was only going to cause more damage so I gave up. I am waiting for a hook and pick set like this one before trying again:

http://www.mxsouth.com/bikemaster/bikemaster-other-tools-tool-packs-wraps-4-peice-mini-hook-and-pick-set_1.jpg

 

I read about one guy hitting a kind of bushing down around the exterior of the seal crushing it inwards so it could be pulled out. I would be afraid of driving the seal further inwards and of scratching the crankcase but I suppose it is not as important to not damage the case as the crankshaft as the new seal will be static against the case and any scratches between them will be sealed with the hylomar applied to the outer diameter of the seal before insertion. I suppose I shouldn't hammer a screwdriver down between the case and the seal though

 

Glad you enjoyed those photos:thumbup:

 

Reckon those hooks should do it, those smaller seals are pigs, you are right about the seal to case damage being resealed and the crank damage being not good.

 

Thought you may have trouble, it isn't easy with the pullers sometimes!

 

It is possible to open out the top of the seal to weaken the wall and then knock a small screwdriver in between the seal and the crank case...carefully!

 

Hope that the new seals do the trick, knock them in with a long socket that catches the outer wall of the seal and get the damn thing in square:001_rolleyes:

 

Good luck - let us know if the issues are sorted out once this is done.

[burrell_]

oi thats my heap of scrap that white and orange thing

tryed milling to day first 2 cuts great then the same thing happend spud dies dont want to start till it cools down

fine cross cutting

dont like the mill me thinks like me hates hard worth