Stihl 038 AVS Replacing Elbow Connector

[Charles Ekin]

Hello

 

I'd really appreciate your help and advice.

This is a great saw but the engine on mine has begun dying on a felling cut. Cuts perfectly well when cutting downwards (vertically) but I am supposing there is some kind of air intake that is upsetting the mix.

 

To date I have replaced the carb diaphragms, the fuel filter and pipe, the tank breather and the main carb gasket. It's still doing it. Is there anything left apart from the elbow connector that could be causing an air intake, or am I maybe overlooking something else?

 

If you agree that it could be the elbow connector, which of the two ways of accessing it would you say requires the least effort: removing the cylinder and going in that way, or to remove the four AV mountings and swinging the whole tank housing section away from the engine?

 

Thanks very much

 

Charlie

[spudulike]

Hello

 

I'd really appreciate your help and advice.

This is a great saw but the engine on mine has begun dying on a felling cut. Cuts perfectly well when cutting downwards (vertically) but I am supposing there is some kind of air intake that is upsetting the mix.

 

To date I have replaced the carb diaphragms, the fuel filter and pipe, the tank breather and the main carb gasket. It's still doing it. Is there anything left apart from the elbow connector that could be causing an air intake, or am I maybe overlooking something else?

 

If you agree that it could be the elbow connector, which of the two ways of accessing it would you say requires the least effort: removing the cylinder and going in that way, or to remove the four AV mountings and swinging the whole tank housing section away from the engine?

 

Thanks very much

 

Charlie

Not sure what your elbow connector is but you may have an airleak in either your carb boot or impulse line, probably your impulse line. Both you should be able to change without stripping down the engine, pressure checking the engine would help lots.

[Al Smith]

What usually causes the carb boot to tear is a faulty left hand side rear av mount going bad .

 

However with the description you could have a faulty clutch side crankcase seal .

 

To the original question it's not a big deal to change the carb boot .Either way by removing all the av mounts or just the rear two and swinging the engine .You remove the metal ring and fold the boot and shove it through .To install use a piece of string to pull the folded boot back through the hole .Easy as falling off a log .

[Ricbob]

Hi all, new to the forum so thanks for having me.

 

After having a similar problem with my 028 super (practically the same saw) i think i can help.

 

For me, the problem was the crank oil seals, replacing these had a dramatic and instant effect. I then decided the replace everything rubber with the exception of the carb boot as they tend to be expensive and mine was in good shape.

 

unfortunately replacing the oil seal means a total strip but having done it i can tell you its not as complicated as you may think.

 

My 028 avs now runs like a beast!

im also thinking of getting a 038 super as my next saw and doing it all again

[spudulike]

Hi all, new to the forum so thanks for having me.

 

After having a similar problem with my 028 super (practically the same saw) i think i can help.

 

For me, the problem was the crank oil seals, replacing these had a dramatic and instant effect. I then decided the replace everything rubber with the exception of the carb boot as they tend to be expensive and mine was in good shape.

 

unfortunately replacing the oil seal means a total strip but having done it i can tell you its not as complicated as you may think.

 

My 028 avs now runs like a beast!

im also thinking of getting a 038 super as my next saw and doing it all again

 

Generally the seals can be removed without splitting the crankcases, like this -

[Old WoodChip]

With the right tools and know how, anything is possible:thumbup:

Like your new avatar pic Spud, looks like a little screamer:001_tt2:

[spudulike]

With the right tools and know how, anything is possible:thumbup:

Like your new avatar pic Spud, looks like a little screamer:001_tt2:

 

It is - video of it courtesy of Burrell on "Boys day out" thread, it really rips!

[Al Smith]

There's another method if you don't own a seal extracter .Drive a small drywall screw through the metal portion of the seal and withdraw it that way .

 

Now don't go drilling a hole to start the screw because just one tiny sliver of metal chip caught in the race of a bearing could hang it up ,not good .Use a sharp narrow prick punch or an ice pick if need be to make a starter hole .Only engage the screw a few threads and it should come out .

[spudulike]

Thats sort of what I used to do until I saw this bit of kit - like to get a few tools in now and then for those tricky jobs - it was half price and brand new:thumbup:

[Al Smith]

Oh no doubt they have some neat gadgetry ,seal pullers ,case splitters etc .

 

I'd probabley get into some if I repaired small engines for a living which I don't .If a gent was handy in the machine shop you could make a lot of them which I have done .Sometimes a good deal like half price is more simple than a couple of hours on a lathe and universal milling machine though .