Speeds up...slows down...speeds up...slows down (Stihl 028).

[spudulike]

Yeah, that's great (and what I reckoned), thanks!

 

This impulse pipe replacement looks like it requires the entire saw in pieces! Assuming I can even find a replacement impulse hose...

 

Think I've bitten off more than I can chew maybe. That said, I hate quitting!

 

Not much point spending tens and tens of quids on a saw this old I guess...

 

 

No, it pushes on to a connector under the carb inlet boot and pushes through the rear of the air box cover - fairly simple job, give it a light spray of WD40 to ease it through!

[Adamam]

No, it pushes on to a connector under the carb inlet boot and pushes through the rear of the air box cover - fairly simple job, give it a light spray of WD40 to ease it through!

 

 

 

I think we're talking at cross-purposes. The tank vent look easy enough, but the impulse hose (split) looks impossible to even attempt without major disassembly, no?

 

Not that I can find a replacement online anyway, so the point is slightly moot!

 

 

Might just retire it to the long-term pile and buy something ready to go.

 

You don't have anything suitable/used for sale at the moment do you? Your reputation for used gear seems superb!

 

 

[GardenKit]

Impulse hose part number 1115 141 8600.

 

As spud says, easy enought to replace, but a little fiddly. Pulling the av,s may let the handle drop a little to increase space, but if you do that you will also have to push the manifold out. Put a loop of greased string around it to pull it back through

[Adamam]

Impulse hose part number 1115 141 8600.

 

As spud says, easy enought to replace, but a little fiddly. Pulling the av,s may let the handle drop a little to increase space, but if you do that you will also have to push the manifold out. Put a loop of greased string around it to pull it back through

 

Ok, brilliant!

 

So if I detach the AV joints (?) I should be able to separate the two main parts of the case enough to get in and attack the impulse line, is that right?

 

Thanks so much!

[GardenKit]

It will give a bit more space. Push the hose through from the carb side and pull from the back until it snaps into place in the backplate. Use some long, thin pliers to push it over the nipple if your fingers are too clumsy. Then ease the handle back over the boot, pulling the boot through with the slippery string which you have wrapped under the flange, so as not to damage the rubber. When its through gently unwrap the string.

Reassemble Avs and carb etc.

 

No kisses please:biggrin:

[spudulike]

It will give a bit more space. Push the hose through from the carb side and pull from the back until it snaps into place in the backplate. Use some long, thin pliers to push it over the nipple if your fingers are too clumsy. Then ease the handle back over the boot, pulling the boot through with the slippery string which you have wrapped under the flange, so as not to damage the rubber. When its through gently unwrap the string.

Reassemble Avs and carb etc.

 

No kisses please:biggrin:

 

If you know a gynacologist, borrow some of his tools:lol: It isn't too difficult, as Barrie says, flat head screwdriver to pop off the tube off the crank case connector, little bit of lube around where it pushes through the airbox and then push it through, retrieve and the opposite to fit the new one.

 

Long nose pliers are useful to help put make sure you don't damage the new tube on fitting - use the standard OEM part, fitting a "bit of tube" isn't a good idea as there is movement between the handle and crankcase.