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Wooden platter


Dean Lofthouse
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Hi tc

As much as I said quarter sawn boards show the grain better, all good chopping boards used by top chefs and a lot of home chefs are cut from end grain.

To answer your question the top and bottom of a plank or block of wood is the end grain, the reason end grain is better is that it doesn't blunt your a good cutting knifes so quickly as cutting across the grain (its easier to split a log than cut across it).

Chopping boards you find made up of small squares are ok but also still blunt knifes quicker because of the glue holding them together.

Besides recucing knife wear, cutting into end grain doesnt mark the board so much and if you have an expensive teak board or the like it will last much longer.

Anyway why worry too much about what a Star rated Michelin chef does, a lot of people would go ahead and cut their board and when it wears out go cut another one.

Anyway I am biased the round ones are best, ha ha.

kraftinwood

Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

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Best timed thread ever.I am absolutly swamped with requests to make chopping boards.I have few big lumps of oak aswell.But have absolute zero knowledge of how to make one.

Alot of customers have asked for round ones.

Could anybody please guide me thru steps of how to make one as simple as possible,I'm a numpty newbie to woodworking.But I realize money can be made from them.So any help would be massively appreciated guys.

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Hi Yeti, to answer your question and after reading the above you will already know that end grain boards are preferable for chopping boards.

If you are a woodworker then I need not bore you with the bit about using dry timber, but must emphasize that if its green its no good.

I bandsaw my wood and then fix it to a face plate, alternatively you could glue on a tenon and then put it into the chuck, or put it between centres and turn your own tenon. Once turned you can sand with abrasives starting at say 180 grit to say 400grit which is enough for a choppingboard, if its Beech or sycamore there's no real need to apply a finish just leave it.

If you do apply finish then remember it must be food safe, * CARE * no walnut oil or the like as you may end up killing someone or making them very ill if they have a nut allergy

Danish oil after it has dried ( max normally 24 hours) is food safe albeit I still wouldn't apply a finish.

You mention Oak that's fine but I wouldnt use it, my advice is to stick with Beech, Sycamore or Maple they are a lot more hygienic and will stand up to washing and not crack up like Oak may.

Now if you havent got a lathe thats a problem but you could cut the discs (end grain) with a bandsaw and sand with a machine, the result will not be as good as making on a lathe but give it a try.

Hope that helps

Kraftinwood

Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

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