wood burning rayburn

[twmarriott]

Well after 10 days of no cooker, hot water (other than electric kettle) or central heating other than an indoor bonfire we're getting a replacment rayburn tomorrow, took 5 days of swearing at rayburn to get them to send an engineer out, however he was great talked sence and immediatly found the faulty weld, theres been no quibbling from rayburn since and the wifes had a phone call today looks like there will be another arriving tomorrow morning bit short notice but i'm quietly impressed, just hope the new one is better built.

[Big J]

Good to hear that. As you say, fingers crossed that the new one is better.

 

As a relative Rayburn newbie, I've been told that running cooler water through the boiler is a likely cause of corrosion and laterly failure in boilers. Does the inhibitor in the system not prevent this?

[twmarriott]

well we have a new one, its still got to be comissioned, but massive difference in build quality too, this ones much better and interestingly has some bits in stainless the other had in mild steel. overall a much better machine and were happy with it...

i'm putting some more radiators on it swapping them from the heatstore indirect coil, to the cold side of the flow from the cylinder following a chat with the rayburn engineer he reconed we want to maintain a better gradient between hot and cold side of the boiler flows, we had a 8kw leak on the cylinder but he thought it worth making it bigger and worth putting a temp/mixer valve to try maintain a steady temp across the boiler.

Fernox is the stuff to use and make sure you put enough in, i asked about boiler corrosion (off record he rated the stainless boilers from goddard engineering) but it was negligable looking through the pipe holes in ours but as we have a 450 ltr cylinder it was suggested we use more than one bottle of fernox (not a domestic sized cylinder system).

theres a low limit switch for the pump so that should stop the pump if its not up to temp (60 deg).

we had quite a long chat about making the rayburn last the longest possible....

suggestions like don't burn wet wood (makes cresote) don't burn taybrite, and don't burn treated joists as the treatment when burned is corrosive, but also don't burn briquettes came as a supprise, apparently the binding agents are bad when burned too...? he rated the welsh dry steam coal we'd got here...

that said i suspect theyre covering their arse not wanting another boiler failure....with us...its cost them 1 rayburn already!

[Spruce]

suggestions like don't burn wet wood (makes cresote) don't burn taybrite, and don't burn treated joists as the treatment when burned is corrosive, but also don't burn briquettes came as a supprise, apparently the binding agents are bad when burned too...? he rated the welsh dry steam coal we'd got here...

that said i suspect theyre covering their arse not wanting another boiler failure....with us...its cost them 1 rayburn already!

 

I *think* that briquettes made in a proper briquette press don't have anything added, the lignin in the wood sticks it all together. The need for additives comes when the press doesn't apply enough pressure.