Wood cutting newbie question...

[Bolt]

This is an approach we have used with larger limbs.

 

However the main trunk is HUGE - > 1.5m in diameter. So probably close to 4x the length of the bar on my saw. So even if I cut all the way round to the full 15" depth of my bar (and manage to make the ends join up) then its still held on with a central plug of uncut wood.

 

Do I just need a bigger saw ?

 

A bigger saw and longer bar would help. But when you blunten that long ol' bar on the ground (and, no offence, you will at somepoint) you are going to find yourself spending hooooooooours sharpening.

 

you could, as chris sugessted, just cut blocks of the end. but if your saw is nacked already, you will surely be killing it shortly.

 

any chance of getting some mechanical assistance to get it up on blocks / off cut branches?

[Flyguy]

A bigger saw and longer bar would help. But when you blunten that long ol' bar on the ground (and, no offence, you will at somepoint) you are going to find yourself spending hooooooooours sharpening.

 

you could, as chris sugessted, just cut blocks of the end. but if your saw is nacked already, you will surely be killing it shortly.

 

any chance of getting some mechanical assistance to get it up on blocks / off cut branches?

 

 

I have had a go cutting blocks with limited success - but as you say - its killing the saw and takes an age to release a relatively small lump of wood. I was wondering if I had missed something.

 

Having got this far and invested so much effort into dismantling this tree I am reluctant to let it get the better of me.

 

I was wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a decent quality new saw that would run an 18" bar. Looking at the Stihl website it looks as if the MS 260 / MS261 are the smallest saws that will run an 18".

 

I bit pricy... but if it's robust and will last then it would probably be a good investment. I'm fed up of nursing this current saw...

[Chris Gagen]

have you any splitting wedges flyguy? aluminium wood grenades are good, see any good tool catalogue. then you can cut what you can on the top of log, then use wedges to split this section off from the end grain, giving you space to continue the cut and repeat.

 

so when you've finished giggling at my crude diagram,you'll see that you cut through as far as you can on the top of the log (the red line ((it is red i promise!))) then drive 2 or 3 wedges/ grenades in the end grain in line with the bottom of your cut (dotted line) to split off a portion. then repeat. choose where you place your wedges carefully though as you'll swear if you place them to low and get them stuck...

 

so, a big hammer solves the problem yet again!

[Yeti]

Not to sound horrid but if you can't figure out from the above descriptions how to cut with a 15" bar you want nothing with a more powerful saw.I don't want to read another accident thread dude.there no joke powerful saws,the 15" will get it do the cut roll and join the cuts again,then wedge it open with a wedge pop saw in and go for the little bit in middle.

I've had to do just as big with a 16" before when my main saw died

[Sam Thompson]

A Stihl/Husky etc will be better. But if your trunk is 1.5m (I think I read that right) across then an extra 3" of bar won't make a huge deal of difference. I would try and get a proffesional with a MS880 or similar out, or try and find a saw of that size (48" bar or more) to have a play with for a few days.

 

 

But hey ho, thats just me

 

 

Good luck to you, theres no better firewood than free firewood

 

Sam

[Farmer Tom]

Two Man Cross Cut Saw?

 

Bit cheaper and a bit more exercise than a Stihl....

 

Thomas Flinn & Co. Saws - Specialised Products inc. Two Man Crosscut Saws

[Andy Collins]

Beautiful saws there on that site cheers for the link:thumbup1:

[Flyguy]

have you any splitting wedges flyguy? aluminium wood grenades are good, see any good tool catalogue. then you can cut what you can on the top of log, then use wedges to split this section off from the end grain, giving you space to continue the cut and repeat.

 

so when you've finished giggling at my crude diagram,you'll see that you cut through as far as you can on the top of the log (the red line ((it is red i promise!))) then drive 2 or 3 wedges/ grenades in the end grain in line with the bottom of your cut (dotted line) to split off a portion. then repeat. choose where you place your wedges carefully though as you'll swear if you place them to low and get them stuck...

 

so, a big hammer solves the problem yet again!

 

 

Ah yes - I see. Good idea. As long as it splits reasonably straight that should do the trick. Will head out tomorrow and see if I can pick up a couple of extra wedges to give this a go.

 

Cheers.

[Bolt]

Ah yes - I see. Good idea. As long as it splits reasonably straight that should do the trick. Will head out tomorrow and see if I can pick up a couple of extra wedges to give this a go.

 

Cheers.

 

At least this way your saw will get plenty of rests .

 

..............I wonder if cutting what you can from the top and then getting straight in the end grain with an axe would work.............

[Chris Gagen]

At least this way your saw will get plenty of rests .

 

..............I wonder if cutting what you can from the top and then getting straight in the end grain with an axe would work.............

 

not sure id like to swing that axe, hell of a trunk for that