Cleaning the 020/200T oil system

[Mesterh]

Not an indepth or very techy way but one that works.

 

I also take no responsibility for you doing something stupid and getting injured, I'm not even going to mention that this should be done with a non running saw!

 

The quick emergency way.

 

Remove side casing bar chain etc.

 

Remove the clutch. A 13mm socket that is left handed nut so undone clockwise. Fast way is with an impact driver(dont blame me if you break your crank, I never have but its a warning) otherwise you need to lock the crank/piston so usually remove spark plug and insert piston locking tool(should of got one with saw black plastic thing)

 

Remove drive sprocket and needle bearing.

 

Remove white plastic oil pump drive sprocket, note it has the shape of drive sprocket to locate into when rebuilding.

 

Its a good idea if you have an airline to give everything a bit of a blow, the screws are usually hidden behind oily sawdust and can be hard to locate.

 

You then need to remove the 2 white plastic covers, they are held in with 3 star drive bolts.(stihl bolts from now on)

 

The pic below, the bolts are numbered 1 and the covers numbered 2.

 

[ATTACH]45649[/ATTACH]

 

The pump can now be seen, its the bit encasing the crank shaft and is held in by 2 stihl bolts(probably caked in more crap so give a good blast with the airline or get a small stiff brush in there).

 

Ok, remove the 2 bolts but notice on one side of the pump there is a pipe which is the pick up from the tank, on the other it pushes into a rubber bung that moves the oil up to the bar.

 

Disconnect the pickup pipe and maneuver the pump from the bung, or just half remove the pump then remove the pipe.

 

Now have a look at the pump where the pipe and bung where attached. If the saw hasn't been throwing any oil at all you will probably find that there is a little plug of oiled up fine sawdust particles blocking the the pump, you remove this by turning the worm screw by hand.

 

I cant remember which way you move it but you can figure it out as either the plug will come out or oil which allows you to see the pump bit inside turning as you move the worm screw.

 

Once that s cleared remove the pick up pipe by gently pulling and wiggling it, you can pry it out but be careful not to puncture it, pulling usually works fine.

 

Once the bung bit has pulled out you usually have to wiggle and jerk the pipe a bit:blushing: to get the filter out!

 

It can come first time or take ages.

 

Once out blow the crap out from the pump end back to the filter. then replace.

 

As per the haynes manual, assembly is the reversal of removal, or some garbage like that.

 

When reassembling remember to but a bit of oil on the needle bearing(dunno what your supposed to use but I just use chain oil) and make sure the drive sprocket locates onto the white plastic oil pump drive before you tighten down the clutch, which can be done handish tight as long as you only start it up with the bar chain on and whack the chain brake on quick.

 

The better way is to do the above but clean out the oil tank firs tby flushing it with parrafin/kerosene or just chain oil but the warmer/thinner the oil the better it gets the debris out.

 

TBH I have flushed the tanks out then stripped the saw down and there is still loads of bits in the tank, there are plenty of hiding places!

 

A good time to flush the tank out is when the saw is warm as the oil will be warm and flows a bit better.

 

Hope this helps and since I am doing this off the top of my head my I apologuise if Ive missed anything.

 

If I find I have missed something I will amend it or add to the post and please feel free to add if you have any better suggestions.

 

I have a disclaimer for these things so if you want to see it PM me and I'll show you where its kept!

[arbaholic]

Cheers again for that mester h. Ill be carryin out oill tank surgery very soon. Oh and if i do it with saw runnin and spill excessive oil im going to sue you for for a new patio.!

Edited August 28, 2010 by arbaholic