Footlock strop / Brummel splice

[bob]

sorry dean meant to put splicing tools

I have a spare set of tools:thumbup:

and a spare set of instructions

[Dean Lofthouse]

sorry dean meant to put splicing tools

I have a spare set of tools:thumbup:

and a spare set of instructions

 

That sounds interesting

[BenR]

Would a brummel splice be ok for a Yale xtc 12 strand climbing rope too? looks a bit easier than some of the other splices i have seen on here.

[Dean Lofthouse]

Would a brummel splice be ok for a Yale xtc 12 strand climbing rope too? looks a bit easier than some of the other splices i have seen on here.

 

The brummel is mainly used on hollow braid I believe I'm only a beginner I'm sure someone will come along and explain

[BenR]

Yeah the xtc12 is a nubby hollowbraid too. I just wondered if it was a strong enough splice for the main rope because the stress is obviously shared between two splices on your footlocking sling. Its pretty interesting all this splicing stuff. Can see myself getting very addicted and spending lots of money on it! haha... bad!

[Jamie]

I've never spliced the XTC12 strands before. i'd imagine you could do a brummel but why should you. just do a straight bury...if Yale recommend splicing it.

 

i've seen some brummels on 16 strand ropes just to make it look pretty.

 

brummels come into their own when you may want to reduce the length of the buried tail.

 

There are two types of brummel, the one dean did is a locking brummel, the tail passes through the standing part and the standing part passes through the tail. on a (non locking) brummel the tail passes through the standing part twice. While a locking brummel is more secure than a standard splice there is a greater strength loss in the splice due to the locking procedure.

 

tree surfer thats a complex way to do it, the easiest way to do it is to pass the tail through the standing then the standing through teh tail, on a long rope this can be very labourios thats why the method you posted was developed.

 

does that make sense.

 

Jamie

[nod]

 

How short a bury can I get away with if I lockstitch the bury, I'm planning on a 5 or 6 inch bury which seems pretty long.

 

 

Hi Dean

 

Well done on completing your locked brummel. As you've shown in the images, it's not a particularly difficult splice to get your head around & if care is taken with the taper & stitch/whipping it can be a very strong splice.

 

I'd like to offer a few words in a general sense regarding the brummel variations, or rather working with these hollow braid 12 strand ropes & the material their made from. Here I'm thinking down the lines of tenex, yalex, nerex; the open type construction (often used to create slings in our work), as opposed to XTC12 type construction (often used for climbing & rigging in treework).

 

The strongest 12 strand splice is a tuck & bury - 42x rope diameter should be buried, of which 50% is tapered. This is not a brummel type splice.

 

The brummel requires a single pass before burying 21x rope diameter. The locked brummel passes through twice ( as already mentioned) before burying the same 21x diameter.

 

Over the years different retail companies have offered eye to eye slings/hip prussicks which have a bury that is roughly half the recommended 21x rope diameter. I've seen them as short as 8x rope diameter. The problem that I see here is unless you have an understanding of the morphology of different splices, as a climber, you won't necessarily perceive any difference. Kind of like, " It's just a sling & I use it in this or that fashion"! Another aspect to this is that on these short buries the stitch/whip is absolutely crucial to safe functioning of the splice. If the stitch/whip fails to do its job, what is holding the splice together? You then couple this with the alternating motion of being tight then slack that a friction hitch is subjected to & issues can arise quickly. This type of failure has happened.

 

Recommended measurements change for the type of fibre that the rope is made from. Fibre that ropes are made from have their own inherent qualities; strength, elongation, abrasion etc. This needs also to be borne in mind when heading into the realm of splicing or knotting rope. A good knot or splice for one rope is not necessarily equal when tied on a rope with the same construction but made of different fibre. For instance the technora that your Ice Tail is made from should have a bury of 63x rope diameter on a tuck & bury splice. This is because of the difference in its inherent qualities when compared with polyester, for instance.

 

I have followed this forum since before it became a web presence & believe that it is a great resource where we can interact on all sorts of levels & in different ways. And as many of you know, through reading here, attending workshops or having spoken with me at shows that splicing has become a part of what I do. I believe that it is something that we should do, as people who work with rope & cordage almost every day of our lives. We should at least try & understand what it is that we hang our lives on, surely? And learning to splice rope is a way in which we can begin to do this, in a way it ties us all the rope men that have gone before us & will come after.

 

I hope that the current interest in rope splicing continues to flourish because we can learn alot & maybe change the way standards are forced upon us without being questioned. But if we don't look deeply enough into the subject there are things that can happen without being able to understand why. Things that give strength to the argument that we should only use manufacturer produced splices. I can only urge those interested to consider whether or not this is the route to take.

 

Happy splicing

Cheers

Nod

[Dean Lofthouse]

Thanks for that Nod, very informative post and as per usual your input is very much appreciated and respected.