18" Stihl MS 250 -blade or chain problem?-

[Ratman]

Post some pictures of all pieces of equipment, on and off the saw, pics win prizes!

[Rough Hewn]

Well, I've checked to make sure my chain pitch, etc. for both chains I bought and used are the same as are on the blade, but the other information about the drive sprocket is interesting and I will check that as soon as I have time, and before I go out to cut any wood. What would you think would cause a sprocket to damage  links in only a few places? 
I didn't check the chains before I put them on so I have no idea if they may have been rough when I purchased them, but that is also something I will keep in mind. Good input.
Thank you for that.

Tensioning the chain is simple.
Screw clockwise until the chain comes into full contact with the bar, then lift the nose of the bar, this should slacken it slightly.
Then tension again whilst holding the bar nose up.
Then tighten off.
The chain should run freely with a push if the hand and only slight resistance.
If it’s hard to move, it’s too tight.
If it sags, it’s too loose.

When a chain skips off the bar the sprocket continues turning.
This will peen or splay the bottom of the drive links. Normally a chain off rail will be stopped quickly by the chain catcher.
But a few links will be affected.

There are two main profiles of tooth for cutting.
Full chisel which is more aggressive and semi chisel which is less.
Semi chisel is slightly slower but less risk of kickback and easier to sharpen.
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