hakki 1x37 easy problem

[firewoodman]

update:

 

have fitted a new jonsered bar

 

now works perfectly both with new chain and old chain

 

to my untrained eye there looks to be minimal damage to the old bar if any.

 

 

the damage is done when cutting the bigger diameter timber...the cut end falls into the chute then rebounds back up and strikes the the bar / chain

 

Steve.. I think with my model it would be hard to mis mount the bar as long as it is seated correctly and the two retaining bolts are secure. Although there is always a first time for everything!

 

woth regard to chain wear...after how many hours use do you notice the size difference? I have not noticed this myself but then 99% of what I cut is softwood

 

your eye might not notice the chain wear, but the cutting will, in time you will become one of the best chain sharpeners to avoid this problem.

 

you cant avoid the wear either, the head is just not flexible

 

glad your problems fixed:thumbup:

[mikey10]

I've also noticed that one of the three v belts that drives the saw has become twisted but not sure if this is affecting the above problem.

 

any advice anyone?

 

On the belt issue they will twist if you do not have the 3 top and bottom pulleys exactly in line as they can be adjusted sideways, Mike

[old hand]

When replacing the 3 belts on a Hakki Pilke 1x-37you need to fold up the discharge conveyor and remove the conveyor drive belt.

This is because the gearbox mounting plate gets pulled to the side when the conveyor is in the working position when the two tensioner bolts are loosened. When you have installed new belts check that top and bottom pulleys are aligned. You can do this by holding a straight edge ( eg the back of a hacksaw blade) against the side of the gearbox pulley.The belts should be parallel to the straight edge.If they are not move the gearbox mounting plate until they are. Tension the belts by winding up the bottom nuts on the tensioner bolts. To ensure that the gear box output shaft and the top shaft (hydraulic pump drive) are parallel sight between the bottom of the gearbox mounting plate and the bottom of the splitter slide channel and adjust the tensioners untill this is achieved. Tighten the top adjuster nuts. When the belt tension needs adjusting turn the adjuster nuts by the same of turns. Early machines were fitted with aluminium pulleys and these were prone to rapid wear, resulting in short belt life. Newer machines have Steel pulleys and these can be fitted to early machines. Sometimes belts can turn over if they are running loose and then there is a shock load I.e. splitting a knotty log.

[firewood]

When replacing the 3 belts on a Hakki Pilke 1x-37you need to fold up the discharge conveyor and remove the conveyor drive belt.

This is because the gearbox mounting plate gets pulled to the side when the conveyor is in the working position when the two tensioner bolts are loosened. When you have installed new belts check that top and bottom pulleys are aligned. You can do this by holding a straight edge ( eg the back of a hacksaw blade) against the side of the gearbox pulley.The belts should be parallel to the straight edge.If they are not move the gearbox mounting plate until they are. Tension the belts by winding up the bottom nuts on the tensioner bolts. To ensure that the gear box output shaft and the top shaft (hydraulic pump drive) are parallel sight between the bottom of the gearbox mounting plate and the bottom of the splitter slide channel and adjust the tensioners untill this is achieved. Tighten the top adjuster nuts. When the belt tension needs adjusting turn the adjuster nuts by the same of turns. Early machines were fitted with aluminium pulleys and these were prone to rapid wear, resulting in short belt life. Newer machines have Steel pulleys and these can be fitted to early machines. Sometimes belts can turn over if they are running loose and then there is a shock load I.e. splitting a knotty log.

 

 

 

shock is exactly what happened.

 

 

the ram jammed on a knotty piece and the old propshaft I was using snapped at the UJ

 

to correct the belt i got a small screwdriver in between the belt and the pulley and slowly pulled it round by hand using the other two belts.

 

the belt righted itself and all belts seem tight enough and in line