TaxusBaccata

Looking to finally leave the frenetic land of shouting and exasperated gesturing for the genteel and serene world of intercommed arb work. The issue I've got is that I sub for several firms, some of which use Sena and some of which use Stihl procom, so I need a kit which can connect to both. The internet says that the procom system can work with systems from other manufacturers which use a mesh 2.0. Unfortunately, the most common sena model in my sphere of the arb world is the 10R which is pre mesh. My first question then is for a confirmation from anyone who has tried to use procoms with sena 10R that they definitely don't work together? I decided the solution was to go with a more recent sena model with mesh connectivity, which could hopefully thus communicate with both procoms and the older 10R, so I bought the Sena 50S. However, after unboxing I realised that this is far less suitable for attaching to my petzl vertex vent helmet than the 10R, for the following reasons: - both earpieces come wired together as a single kit so cannot be threaded through the vents - the main unit is designed to clamp or glue on to the edge of the helmet, but this is impossible on the petzl vertex because of the thick lip. It could also be glued but the vertex has a flanged curve at the edge which prevents enough contact between helmet and the unit. - An extra issue is that the 50S unit is pretty bulky and has a pointy corner which looks destined to be forever getting caught in the tree. (This would not be a deal breaker in itself and would be the case for all other helmets). Second question: has anyone overcome these issues and managed to install the sena 50S or similar model on a petzl vertex or similar helmet? Assuming the answer to this is no, I'm thinking my best option is to resell the 50S and replace it with something else. But what? The other sena systems which have mesh connectivity (e.g. 30k) look like they face the same issues as the 50S. Question 3: is anyone aware of any other intercom systems which can connect with both the sena 10R and stihl procoms? Failing this, it seems my only options would be to replace my helmet with something else (anything but protos - had one but didn't get on with it at all) or do some highly inadvisable and intrusive surgery on my vertex in order to install the Sena 50S. Any relevant advice appreciated.

Been using the 2500T for 3ish years. Great saw, but several batteries (LBP-50-150) have now packed it in for me. Four in total now, with 2 in the last 2 months, hence my current frustration. Of the two faulty one's I have in front of me, one simply is flat and won't charge. The other won't charge, nor work in the saw for more than a second or two before cutting out, despite showing 2 bars of charge remaining. I was using the latter one yesterday and it definitly got a bit wet in light rain so maybe that has something to do with it. But they've been out in worse before, although I avoid them getting wet as best I can. And honestly, in the UK industry how the hell are we supposed to work with kit that can't handle being used in the rain? I'd be tempted by the new 3500t were there a way to solve the battery issue. What have others expereinces been? Similar accounts to provide solidarity? Differing accounts to restore some hope of a future with this saw? Or better still, any ideas how to fix the very expensive bits of trash I have sitting in front of me?

I was recently informed in no uncertain terms by an authority on the subject that removing rubbing branches is no longer considered good practice in tree work. The justification is that they provide natural bracing. I have subsequently tried to verify this information but come up blank. BS3998 (10.5.2) clearly states that rubbing branches should be prevented by means of pruning (or failing that by bracing) Gilman's 'An illustrated guide to pruning' (2nd ed) (p.205) also states removing rubbing branches as part of established tree maintenance (as well as crucial formative pruning) Whats going on here then? Two hypotheses are that (1) best practice guidelines have updated on this matter since the publication of these materials (2010 and 2002 respectively), or (2) best practice holds that branches which merely cross but do not abrasively rub should be kept (and I failed to glean this subtlety from this authority) - which seems plausible although I've not seen this written anywhere. Common sense seems to indicate to me that each case of crossing/rubbing branches be considered individually and a context-specific judgement be made which weighs up the relevant factors. It also seems logical that in cases where one branch rests upon another, there should, all else equal, be a general preference for removing the top branch since this is the one which was in receipt of the greatest support and is thus most likely to fail if suddenly alone. Can anyone shed any light on this? Ta

Where can I do Intermediate Tree Inspection in the South West? Ta

Hello mate, any updates on this after a years use? I'm planning to make something similar myself. Also wondering why it's necessary for the sling to be made rigid? is that just loads of tape, or is there a stick in there? Thanks!

Hi all Wondering if anyone has any tree-related books that they would like to sell? I am particularly keen to get hold of: Applied Tree Biology - Andrew Hirons and Peter Thomas An Illustrated Guide to Pruning - Edward Gilman Diagnosis of Ill-Health in Trees - Strouts and Winter The AA afiliated books on fungi or pests and dieseses Any arborists certification study guide Unfortunately I could by another chainsaw for less money than the cost of getting all these new, so hoping that there might be some copies sat around collecting dust that people would be willing to sell for less? Based in the Bristol area but would gladly pay postage from further affield. Cheers!

Hitch climber system (i.e. with an eye to eye prussik)

Climbing ropes vary in price a lot. How does quality / performance vary with price? ta