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cameroncrofter

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Posts posted by cameroncrofter

  1. 12 hours ago, spudulike said:

    I agree on this, the main trouble is finding someone who is pretty decent and knows what they are doing.

    Not pushing for the business as I am not doing much now.

    I guess resealing the crankcase upper to the engineered plastic lower and see how it goes. 

    Make sure the small impulse pipe is connected between the manifold clamp and the carb union and it that doesn't do it....take it to someone who knows their two stroke engines.

    The blowback through the carb concerns me still as the top end is good .....was the "new" carb an OEM Husqvarna brand new boxed one or secondhand one? 

     

    The carb was an oem walbrow boxed one o would take it to someone else but not many people if any work and saws on the island I live on 😞

  2. On 07/08/2022 at 09:47, spudulike said:

    If you fit a new piston...fit this one.....pretty much as good as OEM

    WWW.GARDENHIRESPARES.CO.UK

    Genuine Meteor part suitable for the following makes & models;Husqvarna51, 350, 351Jonsered2054 EPA, 2149, 2150 EPA, CS2150 EPAKit supplied with 44mm piston, ring, gudgeon...

     

    Thank you very much for the advice you have been a lot of help and I have learnt alot 😊😊😊 I have put a new genuine cylinder and piston also new oem inlet manifold and also second hand exhaust and tried oem new carb still not running right 😞 starts but revs high with carb screws 1 turn tired setting them in and out but nothing then when not running as you crank it exhaust gas /vapours come out of intake I never took off the bottom casting so probably going to do that next I did order extra head gasket and exhaust gaskets as I wanted to just try a new flying before opening up the bottom end 👍

  3. 7 hours ago, spudulike said:

    Not being funny but if the H screw is all the way in, you have shut off the high speed check valve and the only other way of getting fuel in to the engine is through the low speed jets and these won't support combustion past 1/3rd throttle. Could the carb casting be cracked?

    It is also possible you have two carbs with shot high speed check valves but it is extremely rare especially on a new carb. Can you try these carbs on another 350?

    When you take the choke off, is the choke valve completely horizontal in the carb bore? I have seen some carbs get stuck with the choke in a half closed position causing this sort of issue.

    One other thing on top of the air leak issues I have already mentioned...the rubber manifolds on these saws, as well as 346, 357 etc are often fitted badly and have a deformed or split impulse connector and will cause over revving. 

    Have you popped the muffler off to check the state of the piston? If it has seized but the ring is free, it is possible the inlet skirt is shot and that is causing free porting.

    BTW....I trust your comment above isn't being a bit glib....you have the benefit of the machine being in front of you!

     

     

    7 hours ago, spudulike said:

    Not being funny but if the H screw is all the way in, you have shut off the high speed check valve and the only other way of getting fuel in to the engine is through the low speed jets and these won't support combustion past 1/3rd throttle. Could the carb casting be cracked?

    It is also possible you have two carbs with shot high speed check valves but it is extremely rare especially on a new carb. Can you try these carbs on another 350?

    When you take the choke off, is the choke valve completely horizontal in the carb bore? I have seen some carbs get stuck with the choke in a half closed position causing this sort of issue.

    One other thing on top of the air leak issues I have already mentioned...the rubber manifolds on these saws, as well as 346, 357 etc are often fitted badly and have a deformed or split impulse connector and will cause over revving. 

    Have you popped the muffler off to check the state of the piston? If it has seized but the ring is free, it is possible the inlet skirt is shot and that is causing free porting.

    BTW....I trust your comment above isn't being a bit glib....you have the benefit of the machine being in front of you!

     

    Just took it apart and think I’m going to just put a new piston and cylinder on it 

     

    many advice on revoking old piston  are installing new one ? Thank you for or the help so far 🙏

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  4. 3 minutes ago, spudulike said:

    The back fire suggests the ignition timing is incorrect and that the flywheel has spun round on the crank and sheared the key but generally it wouldn't run when this happens. 

    It is however, worth pulling the flywheel off and checking the flywheel, especially if you can do that sort of work.

    The over revving - in your first video, the saw sounded pretty strangled and no sign of it over revving, when does this happen and if you turn the H screw anti clockwise, does it stop over revving?

    Over revving is generally caused by an air leak or an incorrect setting on the H screw....just so you know.

    The 350 is prone to leaking air between the lower engineering plastic cradle and the upper crankcase. This wouldn't cause the fuel to come out of the inlet but would cause over revving.

    Strange you have over fuelling and over revving together as too much fuel means lower revs as can be seen in the first vid.

    Put new flywheel on and still no luck not as much fuel now but still over reving 

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