TheGingerMan

9 minutes ago, HuntingHicap said:

I had a couple of CT's I think they were, managed to find a website in the US selling NOS parts, however its not a saw you would want to be using very often if you want to avoid carpal tunnel.

Was gonna use it for milling

I acquired this saw, complete. I'm wondering if anyone has any parts I could buy from them. Online searches lead me to believe it shares parts with other saws in the CC series, I think maybe the 109. The sprocket needs replaced. Maybe someone has a link to a compatible sprocket?

Thank you!

On 23/03/2021 at 21:22, spudulike said:

No idea on the tank housing, have you pushed the AV annular buffers in fully? On the screw holes -  I would look at the holes they are going in to and measure the depth if blind holes and fit the screws that won't bottom out. You have to make sure that the screws won't bottom out or puncture the material behind the screw which can lead to issues or damage to the saw.

It is possible a numb nuts has fitted the incorrect screws. Some saws have a cylinder base of different thicknesses front to rear - like the 395XP and the longer ones go to the rear as the cylinder base is thicker to the rear of the cylinder.

 

Aye looks like some daftys fitted a screw on bolt wi a washer on to the annular buffer, bought the torq head threaded screw and the retainer for it which is the parts meant for it but still no luck in it screwing in

16 minutes ago, Pete Mctree said:

Hard question - what is your local dealer selling? How strong are you? What are you cutting? Etc etc

 

For me - My local husky dealers are crap so I run Stihl 

I am strong enough to run a bigger saw if needed, so my choice increases 

I am cutting medium sized ash trees predominantly at the moment and running 70cc class saws with either an 18” or 20” bar

 

I you can use the training centre’s saws it might give you an insight into makes, models and how then feel in your hand. Helps to make an informed decision.
 

Remember people’s favourite saws might not be the best choice in the woods and an arborist is usually not the best person to ask. Good luck!

I reckon 60cc would be max for me. Not because I've trialled and tested above that but more so not being over confident and ended up with salami face afterwards.

I'm 6'1, not a bulky guy but with some mad deeply seated under the surface ginger strength. Entry level so aye, no a big saw required.

9 minutes ago, JaySmith said:

 

I brought a stihl 151t from Mowers2go during lockdown as my local dealer couldn’t get any stock. Transaction was all good, kept me informed when it was going to arrive and turned up when they said it would. I was a bit apprehensive about them but a mate buys a load of landscaping gear off of them and rates them and my experience was positive. They are a stihl dealer in Norwich which operates under Acle Garden Machinery Limited.

 

Thanks man! Needed to hear something about em, their prices are whoorea low! I never really trust on site reviews

12 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Personally I love my ms261cm, great on the ground and if you can handle a saw then it will bury the full 18 bar. You can make good size cuts when up on spikes and fell good size stuff on the ground. 

I've had mine 3 years now and not had a single issue with it. I grease the sprocket bearing regularly and just look after it. 

 

I'd say the 362 is just heavy without gaining much in power. I would rather be nimble with a 261 than just power through things with a 362 

Good to hear! Steering towards a 261 at this point

Has anyone ever bought off the website mowers2go? Àre they legit? They've got saws selling for what seems the cheapest on the net

17 minutes ago, spuddog0507 said:

Dont know weather your a Husky or stihl fan ? for me its Stihl and in my opinion you cant go wrong with a 261, there nice to use, plenty of power and  seem to have the balls to sort bigger timber out as well, if this is the rout you go down look after it, keep the needle bearing greased and it will last you a long time, some one is going to post that the 261s are crap but they more than likely just bought one and used it with out doing any maintainance on it, and we all know that any machinery that does not get maitained from day one it will reflect later on in its working, and we have all heard the saying, prevention is better than cure, and them words are very true, 

Good words from you!  Thanks! Aye I'm right keen on stihls, considered a 362 but was no sure that was taking the piss a bit

So I'm gearing up to get my tickets. What's the best starter pro saw in your opinion folks?

1 hour ago, spudulike said:

From the IPL, it doesn't look like there should be a buffer there - 

http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Stihl 028AV IPL.pdf

 

odd, wonder why the tank housing and crankcase isn't fitting together like it did,
Another query i have is the cylinder bolts are different sizes, 2 long and 2 short. is it small at the back of the cylinder and long at the front?

Another thing is what is the name of the black rubber in this video? It's at the front of the tank housing on the inner side, when I fully separated the saw and put it back together it didn't fit like it had done before, as if the saw is out of line, not straight anymore and doesn't give the same snug fit like it had done. I wonder if it has perished in taking the saw apart and that's what's stopping it from fitting so well. Also to note it seems like its caused trying to tighten the screw into the annular buffer to not happen, it won't bite

That gap under the end there

@spudulike got any tips for getting an impulse line on? Struggling to get the ridge on the line at the carburettor end into the entry hole

2 hours ago, spudulike said:

No, as soon as you start the saw, it will burn off very quickly and the saw will be much easier to pull over after that.

All the oil is doing is seeping around the rings and piston making it seal extremely well rather than allowing a bit of leakage as it will do once burnt off.

 

This is good info man! Thank you so much!

2 hours ago, spudulike said:

Is the saw easy to pull over with the plug out? It is probably the oil you put in the bore on reassembly that has increased the compression to a point it gets very difficult to pull over.

 

Aye pulls easy! That shouldn't bugger the saw with increased compression?

14 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

It’s a great saw if you can get it to work properly.

Hope I do!

Ok yeah, one handed but with both hands I can get the rings to meet on the locating pins but they never stay intact, I've tried with a cut off piece from a silicone tube but nay joy

3 minutes ago, Wonky said:

This may help you 

http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Stihl 028AV IPL.pdf

Been referencing parts diagrams from L&S Engineers

14 minutes ago, peatff said:

 

Did you keep the rings on the locating pin on the piston, did the cylinder go back easily

The cylinder went back on easy enough with being gentle doing it but the rings expanded when the cylinder came off, they didn't dismount and actually come off so tryna get em back on under the pins was a ballache. Maybe not on proper

44 minutes ago, gand said:

I think we've got one at the shop at moment. I will have a look to see if the s/n is something similar. Looking at the parts diagram a lot of parts are 1118. What parts do you need? 

Need a carb cover and sprocket cover. Not sure if I need a new piston and cylinder, took the cylinder off to check the piston, put it back on and now the pull of the pull cord is stiff

3 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Well it doesn't look in bad condition. Check out the top end, carb refurb, check the clutch drum and springs, pressure and vac check and should cut your firewood. It will be 1977 - circa 1987.....so only some 40 years old!

Got it second hand the other week, the part numbers are all 1118 but didnae think that accounted for the serial number. It needs some work like and I'm a novice. Would really appreciate some guidance here and there if any of yous can spare 

On 16/03/2021 at 20:05, spudulike said:

What sort of saw is that? It cant have been manufactured in the last 30 years or so!

Stihl 028 super

So i took the cylinder off the piston head to check out what was going on in there and after putting it back on the pull i get from the pull cord is really pretty stiff, before i took it off it was doing all right for compression. Now when i do the compression test of holding the pull cord and letting the saw drop it doesn't even really drop, drops once and then no more thereafter. Any ideas?