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Posts posted by Ben scott
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What species are the 90cm diameter logs… would they be any good for milling… l
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looking for weekend work in the oxford area (potentially also Wednesday and Friday)
I have cs30 ticket and have a lot of experience running saws in a sawmill setup
I also have own ppe and saws if needed
I am hard working and will always show up on time and looking to build experience up
Ben scott
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Hi weedee
I do milling in Armagh when I am back seeing family… can’t guarantee anything about when I will be back up but if you can’t find anyone I may be of assistance at some point in the future… -
Watched a couple of the axminster sell on ebay for crazy money and id have to collect.
Can buy a new one interest free over two years, delivered in 48 hours.
I have plenty of space for the said saw. Just can't leave it in the middle of workshop when not in use. I have a big 3 phase spindle moulder which I can't move but everything else except the lathe is on a trolley and stored against the wall.
Never used a charnwood and wondered what people's opinions of them are.
I would consider myself a light trade user so get hammered for a couple of days then not used for a month. I'm expecting crap plastic handles that will break but happy to make necessary up grades my self.
Makes sense
You may be more likely to get an awnser form a Charnwood owner on ukworkshop forum
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On 11/04/2021 at 16:01, muttley9050 said:
Hi all.
Any opinions on this table saw? I'm in need of a new one and the second hand market is crazy. There is also very little availability in the new market right now. Alot is stuff on back order.
Up for suggestions of something better in a similar price point and capacity.
As much as I would love a big old cast machine unfortunately it will have to be on trolley base as space is limited.
Onions welcomed.
Cheers
if space is limited is a sliding table a good idea? Charnwood mention a minimum floor are of 2500mmx3100mm
as a training furniture maker with limited space i manged to find an imported Harvey hw110lge-30 which has been a really solid saw there now sold by Axminister for way more than i payed for it! they also sell a smaller one that is closer to your price range. they have sling tables and other accessory's which might suit but as you say there on backorder so no good for you
I've also had some good experace with the sip ones but they seem to be on backorder till mid may...
everything I've said you probably already know but now you know my opinion... or should i say onion
Axminster Trade AT254TS Table Saw Workstation | Axminster Tools
This is a smart 254mm blade table saw with a very high build quality, and some features normally only found on much... -
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Burn it in a big pile with lashings of Red Diesel. [emoji3]
I'll build a Sawdust Stove when I build myself a workshop, but that will only account for a fraction of whats produced.
If Im milling Oak or Cherry then I keep a bagful back for the Smoker.
I throw a wheelbarrow full in with the Chickens now and again.
Can you burn wet (as in fresh cut) sawdust with a sawdust stove?
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What does everyone do with sawdust?
Is there any good uses (except for extremely difficult jigsaws)
I’ve got quite a pile building up!
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Alasdair,
Can I suggest that you stop and think about something. What do you actually want to achieve?
It reads as though you are on a crusade against lo-pro, and against Rob D.
You asked a question as to whether other people have had problems with lo-pro. It's a fair question and you have had answers. Some were positive, others were negative but you appear to be focussed only on the negative answers. You give the impression that you weren't really asking the question, but were trying to gather evidence against the equipment Rob sells. If all experiences had been negative then there would be a good reason to consider the equipment unsuitable, but they are not, so clearly it is not.
It is clear that different people have different experiences with lo-pro. In that regard it is definitely more sensitive to the approach of the user than heavier chain. This is not surprising - look at the build. It is clearly much closer to the limits and you would expect that to be more challenging the higher the torque of the saw, but it works for some, who get benefits from using it. If you wanted to find out why, you would ask what they had been milling, how they use it, look at videos etc. to try and get to the bottom of it. I have not seen any questions of that nature. Perhaps that would be a constructive direction to go in for everyone?
Rob D has commented on your thread and you appear to have taken exception to this. This is an internet forum and responses are open to all. You would particularly expect the subject of the thread to want to reply, and you would expect him not to agree with you. Do you not feel he is entitled to express his response to your comments?
In the end, you have experimented with lo-pro and have found it is not for you and have bought something else which you are happy with. You have been refunded. What more do you actually want someone to do?
Alec
Well said Alec
Personally had a really good experience with Rob
Will be buying from him again (when he gets some .404 bars back in stock )
It’s all a learning experience in the end!
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Yeah I did just that, went to an awsome guy in Tavistock who completely agreed that lo Pro had no business being used on big saws or bars. I am now getting through two cube of oak a day with no issues at all. Damn my lack of experience.
What you running now then
As you might guess I’m in the market for a new milling bar!
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5 hours ago, Macpherson said:
That's a right nice piece of kit you've got there, just googled Peterson mills and got a good video of one of their mills being demoed.
Junior Peterson - Small Sawmill with Big Features by Peterson Sawmills
PETERSONSAWMILLS.COM
The Junior Peterson is small portable sawmill manufactured by Peterson Portable Sawmills and is with big features and...Great piece of kit! I have a WPF with a ten inch cut and it’s great for making standard bourd which is what I want as a furniture maker also removes the need for a first cut when using a chainsaw mill as I can cut the top and bottom of the logs into bourds and use the wider center sections as slabs
I’ve attached a few photos of what is capable.. the mill will cut about 2m3 an hour including time for manual log handling.
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turned some mulberry bowls at one stage
wood movement was extreme but It didn't crack...
good luck 😀
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On 08/03/2021 at 19:16, Rough Hewn said:
how much iron was there to cause that much staining?
looks great though I've got s load of stained oak that ill have t use at some point
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On 08/03/2021 at 07:26, Stihl123 said:
sorry if someone has already asked, but anyone have these issues with running lopro on a 661 or not?
as am looking into replacing my 36 with a lopro
for occasional use only!!
another question would be has anyone had issues with the 36" or just the 48"?
would the extra resistance of the 48 causing the sprocket to break?
as for the use with a 660
the 660 has 7.1 hp and the 880 at 8.6
the 880 lasted at 20 mins of cutting with the last sprocket we had
so i cant imagine that the 660 lasting a very long time even with the less power
i could be wrong
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I have workshop full ben
Awesome,
Starting to fill my workshop up
Only thing about those old machines is the dust
Do you have any setup for dust extraction?
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That's more or less my setup but I don't do it for a living, the GB tip just looks too wee, it would be interesting to know it's hardness as a clue to whether it's deforming and fatiguing or just snapping, cheers.
I’m far from doing it for a living too
I’m still in remote school and milling in my breaks and study lessons
As for the harness not sure how I would test for that.- 1
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Be surprised if its works left outside like that and you say its rusting which is never a good sign.
Those old machine tools generally made with a lot less tolerance and adjustments on the ways. I’ve seen them recovered form a hell of a worse state
The major thing I’d be worried about is the reason it was outside electrical issues are normally easily fixed. Cracked castings is what I’d be worrying about -
On 05/03/2021 at 22:45, openspaceman said:
where is this located?
thanks
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Just not enough material between the ID and the root of the teeth, I noticed from Ben Scott's pictures that the GB bar is only about half the width at the tip compared to the Stihl so it will have much more teeth and more material to the sprocket.
I know that my Stihl 36" bar is an option with a ' Y ' suffix which denotes 1 or 2 extra teeth 12 in total I think, can't remember which..... how many tips have you gone through ?
That’s my third tip gone
I milled for ages with a 066 and a 36” Stilhl bar and never had any problems- 2
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another one bites the dust
this was the quickest death of a nose sprocket yet
it had one cut on a 3000mm long and 1000mm wide wellingtonia (redwood) which was very soft and was just to finish the job started buy the last nose sprocket
and one and a half cuts on a sycamore crotch 1500mm long and up to 1000mm wide where it worked perfect for one cut and got half way though though the next and blew out
as usual I've been using correct chain tension, extra oiler, wedges and letting the saw pull itself though the cut
fed up this this lo pro... .404 is the way to go in my opinion if your running an 880
have attached photos of the shagged sprocket
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Just got off the phone with GB in Australia.
No problems with the nose sprockets or chains.
It’s precision kit, highly refined.
Leaves a clean finish.
[emoji106]
Precision is questionable
When I first got my gb bar the paint on mounting slot was so thick that it wouldn’t fit
I got sent spare nose sprockets and one had four rivets the other had three and one mouse poop (or whatever Australian animal poops like a mouse)
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On 01/03/2021 at 21:05, Macpherson said:
Good point ..if you've got a f*^%&" one, drill out the rivets and put up some pics of the sprocket and it's bearing, just from your pics it's easy to see that it has a much reduced diameter so therefore far less material that must equal less robust, cheers.
I've attached some photos of the broken sprockets that I've had
these sprockets have got bearings in them but i doubt that there worn out as the nose bearings were only a couple of hours of use in them. the first time it broke i found the shrapnel of the sprocket half way down the bar jammed in the slot of the bar. the second time is as shown in the photos it was all bunched up underneath. i will drill out the rivets on the broken one tomorrow though see if there's anything else to learn. i don't think it was due to improper lubrication though as i have a spryer bottle full of chain oil as well as the saws oiler running in the chain
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i too have had issues with the tis on my gb bars (48 inch lo pro) I've blown 2 tips in a short amount of time on my 880
i am far from an expert at anything to do with chainsaws but the nose sprocket seems very narrow on the gb bars... especially compared to something like a .404 36" bar... and with the tension that a 880 would exert on a small radius there's no wonder why it fails...
also i there a chance that the sprocket is too hard and therefore brittle?
i could be absolutely barking up the wrong tree
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looking for band resaw
in Milling Forum
Posted
hiya
looking for band resaw wondering if anyone has one taking up space in there yard
something like a forester 900? preferably PTO powered...
looking for something to cut feather edge cladding, cutting smaller offcuts into useable stock and cutting firewood.
don't know if anyone else had any other suggestions of machines that might fit that brief?
always open to suggestions of better ways to deal with offcuts as well. always seem to be left with the annoying little pieces that clog up the yard that are too small for the firewood processor and too big to get put strait in to firewood always end up cutting them with the 16 inch bandsaw but its not made for it really.
thanks in advance guys