Soeren

Hi Jase, received the replacement belt and wanted to make the replacement. Looked like a more easy thing, but after removing the two large 16mm bolts, the twin pump does not really move. I can make it move around some 1cm in each direction, but moving it away from the motor does not seem to work. It appears to me, some more fixtures are in place, it just feels like something is blocking it to get away in direction of the infeed chute. Noticed there is some rubber "thing" around the shaft, not sure what is used for, so I'm tempted to remove this one as well. Just a foto attached: Blue should be the motor shaft, yellow the "rubber thing" and red where the 16mm bolts sat. Thanks, Soeren

Hi Jase, yes, this makes sense, thanks! I just looked into the motor room a couple of minutes ago, but this makes sense. My wording was likely wrong: The small pump's pulley is free (which is likely the hydraulic pump for the rollers?) and the larger twin pump's shaft is in the way of exchanging the belt (so this is the track's pump?). Just noticed the same action would be required, once I'd need to exchange the two flywheel belts as again the twin pump's shaft is in the way. You're defintilely faster with your answer then my spare parts provider 😀 Thanks, Soeren

Hi, this morning my Arbtrak's pump V-belt blew off. From the manual and what I can identify on the belt it's type is SPA 1030, which should be okay to get (even here in Spain ,-)). However, it looks a little tricky to get it on again, the pump and/or it's shaft seems to be in the way, at least "some" parts need to removed temporarily. But not sure about this. Is there a simple step-by-step description available? I checked the training videos but nothing in this direction. Would be nice, if someone could provide hints to this before fiddling around for this the next hours ,-) Thanks, Soeren

Hi Stubby, "oil" just comes up after some time when the motor dies, but not directly after starting. Tank vent could be one thing, I'll loosen the cap tomorrow while running so I can check for a possible ventilation problem. ? Hi Jase, thanks for joining ? I bought the machine with ~720 hours. We agreed to have all fluids and filters changed, that was about 80 running hours ago, or end of January this year. Hydraulic and motor oil was fully leveled and I must beleive, they have exchanged it with fresh filters. However, checking for the spare parts binder I just noticed that the fuel guaze filter is not installed at all. Is this a nice-to-have item or would you highly recommend it? I will in any case check inline and main filter for dirt and also check that the solenoid does work as proposed. Fuses are okay, but applying some contact spray might make sure they are perfectly. Will also check the fixed roller from underneath as recommended. So thanks a lot, quite a number of hints and checks for tomorrow - will be back what helped! Best, Soeren PS: The 190 op manual states there is a "track manual" and "engine manual", I don't have them nor did I find them on the Greenmech website. Can you send them me via PM or email? Thx.

Hi spaceman, thanks for the hint, a blocked filter would cause problems right from the start, right (see below)? Bu will check fuel filter tomorrow morning first thing ? When you say "oil", does this refer to motor or hydraulic oil? Hydraulic oil has a full level and medium temperature all the time following the gauge on the tank. The motor oil seemed to be leveled full this morning, but I cannot say anything about the temperature of course. Had to work some other stuff some hours around noon so let the arbtrak cool down for some 3 hours. I started again with my email in mind and tried to correlate the issue somehow more narrowing the actions: There seems to be no relation towards "has tracked just before or not", manual gas yes/no or any other described action. The machine chipped like hell but I noticed that after some 90~100 minute the issue started to rise again. RPM began to oscillate up and down first by 150~200 RPM, minutes later even more and finally it went out ("0.L" or "oil" if that's the thing). It was barely not possible to continue work after some more 15 minutes, because RPM went down finally always after some seconds when reaching max so I stopped for the day. Remembering this morning it also started after some 110~120 minutes (it was 5 degree cooler this morning), so something temperature related would make sense. Regards. Soeren

After performing some part replacements, which went well du to Jase's comment (sill thanks for that!), I am facing a new problem which also came up, rarely, before I had the serveral weeks stopped due to parts replacement. Symptom is as follwing: The RPM builds up to full (which is 1620/1630) and after some minutes just goes down. Sometimes slightly to 1500 sometimes to 800 and sometimes it went down more and more until the moter went off. It is a little erratic, but happened this morning about 15 times at least. Things I tried out: Can happen in tracking mode, but because I do it rarely in the moment, I see it mostly in chpping mode Rotating speed of rollers does not seem to have any impact Durating since starting (i.e. motor/ oil temperature) has no impact I usally work with the slow/fast button on the RDS, but tried with the manual throttle in a final step (just before my lunch break). This seamed to help, but I will confirm this. Such spin down can come down just one after the other or with minutes or half hour in between. In the first place I had the impression it was more the minutes directly after tracking, but this might be a very subjective perception I also noticed that the fixed roller seems to stop now and then very shortly and might stop when feeding in larger portions of branches or trunks. But not that big, that it would block normally, maybe just 8cm diameter. The sliding roller (which I just exchanged to a brand new) always rotates well. In general I noticed that when turning the roller speed knob to "slow" the rollers really, really craw very slowly, but don't know if this is normal (or what is "normal") When the motor halts, the display will always show "0.L", see attached foto and the RDS starts to beep. Of course I checked all the regular stuff, oil, fuel, hydraulic oil, cooling, fuses etc., all good. Also everything was very clean, well greased and the flywheel can rotate very nicely. Maybe I can first get a hint of the message (didn't find it in the manual) in order to circle the problem. I suppose it has something to do with the hydraulics, my best guess is maybe a loos connection with a detector or something, but just guessing. Thanks, Soeren

No worries, next time I'll have a 6:1 snatch block ready for that purpose, so it will be an easy turn to [dis]assemble the springs ,-) rgds, soeren

Hi Jase, more or less solved the issue: The limit stop of the housing, which actually stops the guide mounting plate, had quite a lot of really hardened dust on it, not allowing the plate to travel more to the right (right as on the photo). I noticed after crawling into the feeder chute and looking at the roller chamber - removed the dust which gave me another 6~8 mm. The gap is now below 10 mm which is absolutly okay for me. I was so happy to have the machine alltogether and running that I worked until dark today, got quite a lot of stuff shredded with all the new nice parts ,-) One advantage of disassembling is really, that one get a better understanding of the machine. I now agree that the failure of the guide mounting plate was likely the root cause of all problems, But I can only guess what has happened as it looks like the two outer screws have been lost, so the whole plate become bendable One final thing: When tightening the nuts of the spring eye bolts we required 2 men: One would pull the spring with extreme force so the bolt would come through the spring anchor plate by 2~3 mm, and one would wait for this moment and tighten the nut. Is there a more elegant way to solve this part of the assembly? We used a cord to pull one side of the spring into direction of the nut, not elegant, but works. But I assume in your factory you have a better way to solve this ? So thanks a lot for your help, very glad to have received your support, Jase! ?? Regards, Soeren

Hi Jase, the spare parts finally arrived at my dealer (wow, just 2 weeks this time ,-)) and I am right now putting everything together. The shaft required some punches to make it through into the final position but seems to be okay. The only thing is, that the rwo rollers seem to be a little too much apart in my opinion (see photo), roughly 15~20mm, but I don't know what "normal" distance is. As I had to exchange the spring anchor as well, which allowed the whole slide roller to move too much to the outside (causing all this muddle...) I am not sure what the distance should look like because this now changed geometry kind of. Due to this new parts also the spring eye bolts are not fiddling perfectly through the return spring, so I need to pull them with quite some force to get the nuts on the bolts. I should add that the springs are also just 50 hours old as they had been exchanged just before I bough the machine.

My last order of parts took 6 weeks to arrive at my local dealer - and it was finally the wrong part - very sad story, i was not really impressed...?. I'll post about this as well once all is done ? cheers, soeren

Hi Jase, I placed an order at my dealer with the relevant spare parts. Will post to this thread once I've applied them. This can however take some time, as I am located in Spain and clocks tick much slower here... Have a nice weekend, Soeren

Hi Jase, thanks for confirming the damage. Two hopefully better pictures included. The serial number of the chipper attached as well. Just looked at the parts drawings: If I see it correctly the feedroller's shaft has been really broken into two parts by force? If you recommend to change additional parts for security (wear etc.) like bearings, I'll order them as well. I suppose the feedroller ist the most expensive part for my parts order so any small parts are okay to be orderd as well. Hope I will not need to open and maintain for a longer time now ,-) Regards, Soeren

So here is what actually likely happened (sorry, I know my kids do better drawings then I, this is the best I can ,-)), members of the tragedy are: Pictured are the roller slide plate (black) with guide mounting plate below (also black) We find the four "wheels" or bearings rolling on the metal of the housing (blue) The left roller (filled light reddish) And finally the root couse, a damaged spring anchor (red) What happened likely was: The spring anchor should normally (red dotted line) limit the slide roller in leaving the machine on the right side (right as seen from the infeed chute) However, it was warped actually (solid red line) which allowed one wheel near the outside to kind of escape halfway The normally parallel slide roller now got angeled against the housing (blue) Because the roller itself is limited below by another piece of the housing (green), it stays vertical but now get's angeled with the slide roller As slide roller and roller ar connected via the gear's teeth, we see the wear of the roller's teeth .Why not the motor's gear teeth? I don't know, but I suppose the metal has higher hardness? Also the roller lifted or bent the right side of the guide mounting plate down, which is actually exactly what I noticed. In fact this was so strong, the two screws were gone and parts of the plate itself have bind virtually grinded away from the roller. So lessons learned: The spring anchor is damn important for the whole machine ,-) The machine was used when I bought it and following some old fotos it had the problem with the anchor plate already, but not bent that strong. I did not notice, unfortunately. Not sure about the damage of the roller plate, if this has just happened recently. One really has to dismantle the roller mechanics, which would be kind of creepy when buying a machine, however... So I need now to order some replacement parts, hopefully all is done then. Regards, Soeren

Hi Jase, okay, today I got some time and dismantled the roller slide almost completely, all done. I finally found the problem - and also likely the reason (more to this later). Actual some shearing appeared, the root cause was the spring anchor wich allowed the roler box to kind of leave the machine by about 2 cm. I found the guide mounting plate warped below the roller slide plate and even two screws gone. I tooke a foto of it - it's normally straight, right? ? The second foto shows the plate mounted as I found it. Also after pulling out the slide roller I noticed a lot of metal dust which I did not see before; this is likely from the metal gone from the roller bearing? What is the gear part named actually which is the counterpart to the motor shaft gear? The gear is in the 3rd foto, a little disfocussed but wear can be seen. I am also providing fotos of the roller shaft and the lower part of the plate. So just to ask, both parts look okay to me. What is your opinion? You might give a suggestion which parts are required as replacement, I suppose at least the following: 301030031: Guide mounting plate ??? : The counterpart gear to the motor shaft's gear Any other parts recommended? Also could you please confirm that the motor's gear shaft is okay, with an outer diameter of the dent's of 1 inch/25.4mm and the inner diameter is 21.8mm? Thanks in advance, Soeren

Hi Jase, That is exactly the case, it turns. Can you please elaborate more on "Is there evidence of oil on that motor shaft"? The shaft was greasy when I removed the motor, but I think that's okay? Hydraulic oil level in general is perfect, I neither have constant losses from the level meter nor did I spot any oil leakages. So I suppose the shaft seals would be okay. Anyhow I'll dismantle the roller shaft tomorrow and will send new photos. Thanks a lot! Soeren

Hi Jase, blades are exchanged, "smack with a hammer" was the key to get them out of the flywheel - thanks for that! I'll attache furthermore two pictures regarding the left feed roller. Regarding the motor The shaft spline looks okay for me, does not look sheared. The outer diameter is 1 inch/25.4mm, the inner diameter is 21.8mm Regarding the female spline attached to the roller Was not able to take exact measurements as the caliper is not long enough, but measurements seem to fit I did not spot any metallic dust or crumb BUT: Can you confirm if the feed roller is able to move when attached normally - or not? I tried to move the motor shaft only and this did not work. Inserting it in the feed roller I could move the roller - so the gear seems not to work in my eyes. ANOTHER BUT: I marked on the right side a sprocket where I noticed some kind of possible wear-off. But not sure if this is normal or not. My impression is, I have a wear off. Asked my friend who helped with chipping the last time before I did the anchor plate exchange and he mentioned that he had seen the left roller short time kind of slightly angled in the chute, so not perfectly alligned vertically. If this is now the point, what could be the possible reason and what would need to be exchanged as spare part? Thanks, Soeren

Hi Jase, thanks for the fast answers! Yes, exactly this one. Will examine as suggested and come back with pictures tomorrow. Maybe I already can spot the problem. And for the blades, will simply use more force and try again ,-) As due to the problems with the replacement part, possible problem with the left feedroller and wrongly used spacers it looks like the previous owner did not had that super-duper care he claimed. With the video about changing blades is clearly easy to see the step with applying grease, but yeah, will try it. Soeren

Hi, I've got a used ArbTrak190 with some 800 hours right now (bought it with 720, so some aspects are still new to me). I had a problem with the anchor plate, the weldseam was breaking loose. So yesterday I received my spare part and exchanged it today, that was the simple part, however... 1) As blades were running now about 70 hours I wanted to give them a 120 degree turn. I am quite impressed how little they seem to be used after feeding them so much, cool stuff ?. Removing the screws was easy, but the blades did not move a single bit afterwards. I tried some WD40 and also very slight knocks with a hammer and screwdriver from the downside to loosen them somehow, but that did not work either. I also noticed that the former owner (a renting company, throught they would do a more proper service) has used regular washers instead of the nordlock washers. Exchanged them to Nordlock ones and tightend again with 200 Nm after spraying a lot of WD40 on all of them. However, problem not solved, so what would be the best strategy to remove the blades, once they got kind of stuck? Screws and nut look pretty normal and not overdirty, so I suppose that's a problem that has arisen multiple times for other people as well? 2) The second issue is a real issue: After putting everything together I started the machine without any problems and found the left roller not moving anymore. Tried forward and backward, but nothing. I noticed that after turning the machine off, I can freely move the left roller, but not the right roler. Not sure if this anyhow normal, but I would suppose both should behave identical. Speed control is also working, but just on the right roller. Also I don't get any error code on the RDS. Haven't thought my maintenance day would end like this ? any help appreciated. Regards, Soeren

Hi Jase, thanks for helping out!? I will call you in a couple of days likely. I am currently waiting for a spare part to arrive from my local dealer (*that's* in fact a looong story on it's own, unfortunately not that nice...) and once the part arrives have a greater maintenance session with the machine, including the possible fix of the switch. I run it shortly yesterday, still had the the same issues but did not want to stress it too much without the replacement part. So for sure give you a call before I do the maintenance of the switch! Cheers, Soeren

Hi, not sure if somebody reads this thread as it is some days old. But this friday afternoon my ArbTrak 190 had exactly the same problem. The motor does not start any more and just displays exactly the same messages as posted in the first message. Was a little scrared as the arrow points to the "disc system problem" icon, but this thread gives hope it's just a small glitch ? Just for the records: I noticed on friday the first time that the RPM of the motor went down several times for a second or two while tracking (but not in chipping mode). So I suppose some kind of loose connection from the lid switch could really be the issue as I suppose the switch would also stop the motor whilst in trakking mode? Where is this switch located, which of the 3 lids does it check or are there 3 independent switches? Another big question towards Greenmech: Is there an "official guide" to the RDS display available? I bought mine used in UK (with ~700 hours) and exported it to Spain (we're 50 KM from Barcelona actually), where Greenmech is a very rare brand at all. So for most of the maintenance I'm on my own and would be happy to know if there is more than the regular manual available? Thank & regards, Soeren