ThePecha7

4 hours ago, rapalaman said:

Pictures will help. Whichever option they choose, estimate how many loads of chip/logs then add 50% on top.

even the most experienced of us get caught out on conifers and the amount of waste.

It’s chip on site so not worried about the amount 👍🏻

5 hours ago, Mark Bolam said:

It would be price to fell or nothing for me.

Thanks, that’s what I’m leaning towards

5 hours ago, Mick Dempsey said:

Without wanting to sound arseholey, you must be quite new to the process.
 

These sound like 2 jobs that other firms have turned down because they are a nightmare.

 

Do the clients want to keep the screen of these hedges? 

If the answer is a firm yes then your problems are just beginning.

Been doing tree work for 5 years but only for myself about a year. Like I said, I usually have no trouble at all giving customers options but this one is hard because they want to keep the trees but I don’t want to top them.

 

And they are not hedge leylandi, these are mature trees.

I’ve got 2 jobs I’ve got clients asking me to do. Both involve a row of mature leylandi Cyprus. One is right next to a main road and the trees include many co dominant leaders (some with historical snap outs)

The other job has a row right next to neighbouring property. Not as many co dominant leaders here but these have all the growth/weight on the neighbouring property side because there are other cedar growing behind them. 
 

I usually have a good idea what to advise but this has me sort of stumped. All I can think to advise is to take them out completely or to top them and set up a maintenance schedule. But I really don’t want to advise topping them. 

 

The trees next to road are mature and solid, they aren’t going to fall over any time soon. But the leaders will snap out at some point. I have thought about cabling but I’ve never done this before and don’t even know if it’s possible when you have some many leaders together (5+)

 

Any advise would be much appreciated.

 

 

I recently got to compare them and yes the eyes on the fimble saver are bigger than fimble climb. Also got to have a go with using a couple pulley savers for positioning in a big beech, was great

I’m a arborist in the uk and after looking at the details I would say it was the right decision to bring it down.

And btw we fell all year round in the uk, doesn’t have to be an emergency!

I also climb with a hitchclimber, and my suggestion would be a multisaver, which is the three ring version, rather than pulley.

Having a little bit of friction at the top is not all bad, as it takes some load off the friction hitch when descending and so helps reduce tendency to bind up. I think a pulley is ok on mechanical device eg zigzag but I've never been won over when trying them out.

Hey Dan,
The multisaver was what I was originally going to order. But after a google search I found a majority preferring the fimble climb to the multisaver? Then I found the pulley saver which added another option and drove me to make this post.

I get what you are saying about friction though so maybe the pulley saver is not the best option.

On a side note I did get a chance to use a zigzag on srt all day for a dismantle this week and quite liked it so I may buy one at some point!

Art Rope guide works really well for choking around a flush stem for pole work.

Would advise you though to get use to spiking up and down the tree with your weight being in you lanyard/ flip line rather than always having a higher anchor point. It’s a valuable skill which takes a bit of getting use to especially on leaning/ skinny trees but ultimately it will make you a better and more efficient climber [emoji1303]

Hi Townsend

Yeah I completely agree with getting used to spiking up and down, which I am doing and slowly getting used to. I was taught to really stab my gaffs into the tree but after gaffing out a few times I’ve found just gently walking up to be a better option for me.

Hi, hope you are enjoying being a climber!
 
For what you describe ie pole dismantling I just use my rope around the tree and a flipline, just work them both down the stem ,then chog the next section down and repeat until it can be felled. Maybe I misunderstood what you mean.
 
The pulley saver is good for ascent or moving round the canopy, i've never heard of a fimble saver. Generally I just use a cambium saver for ddrt/mrt or if its a big tree SRT.
 
jan.
 

Thanks for the reply, I am enjoying it yes. I do live in Scotland though climbing in the rain and snow is the only thing I’ve not liked about it so far!

Heres a pic of the fimble saver

Cheers fellas. Wish I knew where they lived.

The worst thing about it is I had only had the 572 for 2 weeks. Had just broken it in and was running nice!

Hi, I’m new to climbing (3 months in) and new a new member here, although I’ve been lurking for a while.

 

I’m looking to get some kind of friction saver and have narrowed it down to either a pulley saver or a fimble climb.

 

I’m climbing ddrt right now with a hitch climber and want something mainly for pole work. A device to wrap around the pole so i can lower myself down on my main line, retrieve it, tie in, cut a log off and repeat.

 

What would you recommend and why? It’s mainly for pole work but it would be used for dismantling big hard woods also.

 

Cheers

Had 5 saws taken from back of pickup in early January 2020. If anyone sees anything let me know cheers.

 

Stihl 200T

Husqvarna 365

Husqvarna 550

Husqvarna 550 mk2

Husqvarna 572xpg