Josh Purton

Tom Sawyer forester sawmill

Have everything to make it mobile again and happy to do so, currently setup low on concrete for ease in the yard. Must be viewed, in good condition all round, swaged and stellite blades included. 4” Blades, some bit of kit! 

Fully refurbished in 2022, every bearing including the carriage base, Crank seal done, full engine service, reserviced Nov 23, belts etc.

Wheel bearings all done fully painted on the back of the wheels as well. Epoxy paint to the saw guards.

Located in Newbury, Berkshire

Looking for around £26k - open to offers

Looking to avoid buying a 21ft lorry body and running a 6m kiln myself (currently have 14ft) as would rarely require it, but have some 6m cedar planks I’d like kiln dried in March 23. Happy to travel and obviously pay but does anyone know someone with a kiln capable of taking a 6m plank please? 
 

*note due to the internal dimensions these planks will not fit inside a 20’ reefer container and the customers requirements are for a kiln dried 6m tabletop
 

Wondering if many others have adapted there otherwise very manual mills to be more automated… I’ve adapted the cut width significantly but my mill is basically a woodland mills

Totally happy with manually pushing the mill through the log means can return at a good speed and ease back for large knots etc, but what I’d like to add is electric raise and lower of the sawhead with some kind of setworks for board thickness etc.

Any photos of what you’ve done / where to source these parts or better still if anyone knows someone that will do this willing to travel to the Berkshire area…

Much Appreciated

Josh

Wagner Orion 

1 minute ago, trigger_andy said:

 

 

Ah cool. Any pictures?

How much do you sell the 10” cuts for?

 

 

Typo - 14” space for 14” ‘logs’! I fill up a bulk bag and keep it in the polytunnel until it sells so it can be any degree of moisture tbh and all species of wood, hence fire pit use. A bulk bag I just ask £50 to clear it, I was filling the bonfire or giving to a local tree surgeon for chip before. 
Logs go in wooden crates and are stored in the poly tunnel til sub 20% moisture. 

I’m wondering why not have ‘pegs’ for the toe board allowing a far more secure attachment and you’re not going to cut them up when running a saw down? I’ve done similar at 14”spaces so all I have to do is run the saw down the uprights and off falls 14”cuts. I sell these as fire pit logs to avoid having to split down

Recent winds have really got me thinking I need to do better with sawdust, currently my Woodland Mills just throws it out against some boards and occasionally il scrape it up with the digger. 
 

other than the obvious hang a bucket over the sawdust outlet which then needs emptying every other cut, what have other people done to this mill or similar to manage the dust? Photos would be great! 
 

I should add that my mill is completely static, mounted on RSJ’s since I’ve converted it to a 1,1m cut. Not a mobile mill and won’t leave the yard so a more permanent dust collector, preferably petrol or can use a generator if required is what I’m looking to do i think 
 

Thanks

On 15/02/2022 at 23:44, gobbypunk said:

Hi yeah I am but I have an Arrowsmith Jnr unit to start with got all the instructions and drying schedules to go with it so going to give that a go first just need to unbolt the fridge stuff and run some power,and find some nice saw logs ,I have some burr mullberry but yeah on the lookout for some nice saw logs will keep you posted on how I get on. 

Evening, I have the same unit, recently purchased second hand. They didn’t have any of the paperwork to go with it, don’t suppose you’d be able to snap a few photos of your paperwork and email them across to me please? My email is [email protected] 

345kg! Unless that’s already taken then 346 😂

3 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

£1500, I’ll come asap

If that’s honestly all you value it at then I won’t bother with the hassle of selling, il just take it down and store away as a spare. But I think considering it’s as new with an unused blade sharpener you’re probably just trying it on at that price

Only one I have in my phone but will be back at the yard this week so can get more

Hi All,

I have a nearly new Norwood mn26 that I’m looking to sell. It has less than 10 hours run time since nee a few years ago and I wonder if any of you could advise on its worth please as I want to avoid eBay if possible. Has 5 Bahco Bi-metal blades with it and a brand new unused sharpener. It’s the basic package so only one log clamp and no extra track length. Is fully built and running well so ready to go.

I have a Woodland Mills that I’ve cut in half and made into a wide cut bandsaw now I’m looking to buy a new mobile 130max bandsaw leaving the Norwood surplus to requirements

Message me if you’re interested but if someone can advise price I’d be most grateful

Josh

Fairly easy modification - introducing the new Woodland Mills HM148, 

48” log with a max cut width of 42”

just  few little bits to do like paint everything up, add the log clamps

1 hour ago, topchippyles said:

Why would you go electric then used a diesel generator ? Why not just use a petrol engine 

Because retrofitting a small, light electric motor onto the sawmill and getting everything lined up will be a lot easier than trying to do the same with a  lumpy 25+hp engine

btw Les it’s basically because everything had got rather tired on that woodland mills I bought from you, so I’ve cut it in half and made the cut width wider by 18” 😂 just an experiment really as the mill wasn’t worth a lot now anyway and will probably buy a mobile version of something too and keep this at the yard

44 minutes ago, Watercourse management said:

At the moment I’m running a 13hp Honda as I had a spare one, I was not expecting a lot from it but was quite impressed with the speed it cut through a 36inch lump of ash . I have all intentions to replace it with a 24hp twin so I can increase the band speed and run a hydraulic debarker .

Thanks for the reply, I’m in a similar boat where I have a 14hp Kohler already setup so going to run that til it dies or struggles too much that I need to change. The plan is to then go 18kw electric motor powered by a diesel generator. 

On 26/08/2021 at 08:30, Watercourse management said:

My belts run very slack as I ordered the wrong size but they have never come off and as a bonus it stops the sawdust building up in the v of the pulley.

Sorry to jump in on a thread but I’m in the process of building a fairly wide cut sawmill myself, all be it static as I have the ability to get the logs back to my yard. Can I ask what engine you’re currently running and how you find it fares with the bigger logs considering your saws width capability… 

Douglas fir for sure and you’ll find it particularly hard on blades when freshly felled, leave it sat for a year and it’s fine. Great timber actually, have found many customers prefer it to Larch. Also, turn water / whatever lube you’re using up to the max flow

Sorry to bring up an old thread but wanting to change the bearings on the band roller, having just ordered belts but not bearings direct from WM to save the aggro of another order, does anybody know the sizes off hand so I can get some off fleabay.

thanks

Lovely Stem of Burr oak today

Just some small oak slabs from the weekend - 69” at widest point. Decided not to bother with the second power head (often get issues with chain tension when running both) but I prefer it to a helper handle for balance and the fact it’ll still oil 

2 hours ago, topchippyles said:

What do you consider the best milling bars and chains.Have bought some real nice kit in the last few weeks (M7 logosol) New saws so looking to complete the package as my current setup for alaskan type milling is stihl 038 with a 36 inch lo pro  bar-3/8 ripping chain.

IMO The only saw for milling is an 880 and small bars just stick with Sugihara, can’t go wrong. Buy from Rob D at ChainsawBars as service always great

1 minute ago, gobbypunk said:

When I first started with my Alaskan I had a load of trouble with chain tension so much so I almost cut through one of the bolts so Rob D suggested I change my hard nosed bar for a sprocket nosed bar and as soon as I did the issues went away and I just had to use the old hard nosed bar and straight away tension issues but only when milling if I am cross cutting with the 4ft hard nosed bar no issues.Hi Josh do you fix that frame to the log every cut ?

Yes I do - else the power of the saw shifts it, unseen in the image is small right angle brackets that are lightly screwed into the top of the slab. Only goes into the wood a couple mm so is never seen after flattening / sanding 

Can’t help but think you all make it extremely hard for yourselves either without a winch or with the winch but in gnarly logs.

For everything I chainsaw mill I now setup a Very basic frame on the top of log even after the first cut. Ensure this hangs over the side of the log just enough on the cutting saw (I’m generally double power head setup) side. Full throttle all the way, no gnarly bumps and a nice gentle wind through every-time on the winch. The only boring part about chainsaw milling should be moving the beastly slabs you’ve just milled and resharpening regaularly

1 hour ago, Forest2Furniture said:

Nice as those wide planks are I think I would have split the trunk and cut some quarter sawn planks, not everyone can handle a 6' wide plank of Oak.

True but the buyer could, and bought the whole tree worth so is a lot easier for me to just slab it.

Here’s some of over 6’ at widest point I done a few weeks back