Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

GuyMo

Member
  • Posts

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by GuyMo

  1. 11 hours ago, peatff said:

     

    It will be paper then, scrape it off and don't worry about it it's not like you're taking a shed roof down. Blue and brown were banned in 1985 and the rest in 1999.

    Thank you matey!

  2. 8 hours ago, peatff said:

    Base gasket for mine was a metal one. Will yours be a 12mm little end or a 10mm ? Mine is a 12mm

    It’s a 10mm and wasn’t metal, definitely some kind of fibrous material.

  3. Just been gifted an 044 with a toasted top end. It’s from about 1995, and I’m going to rebuild it. 
    just wondering if anyone knows what the old gaskets are made of, and whether from that age they would contain any asbestos?

    I know the new ones are ACM free, but can’t find any info for the older ones!

    Cheers!

  4. 9 minutes ago, Stubby said:

    If the known good carb did nothing then maybe there is some air getting in somewhere . Fuel lines , impulse line , crank seals etc etc...

    I’ve not checked the fuel line (silly me).

    Surely a pressure and vac test would show a leak in the crank seals and impulse line though? 
     

  5. My 020t is idling high. It’s really bugging me. The saw is in mint condition for its age (2000) having and very little use until I picked it up in November ‘19. I’ve opened her up and theres no scoring etc.
    I have tried to sort it, but to no avail. 
     

    1. I tuned the carb, and it had no effect.

     

    2. I did a pressure/vac test, and it held completely. 


    3. Swapped the carb for my 200t (another Zama), still nothing.
     

    I was wondering what else I could try?

    In advance, I’m very grateful as always for your input!

    Thanks.

  6. 7 minutes ago, spudulike said:

    Yup, you can't just slap on a new coil on these AT machines, you need the CST (Common Service Tool) software and interface to link the new carb and coil with your saw!

    I presume they are pretty difficult to get hold of too?! 

  7. 3 minutes ago, Stihllymok said:

    Interesting. I'm in exactly the same boat...first Husky starts but won't run so time to open her up. Mind me asking if you used genuine bits or eBay? Thanks.?

    I cleaned up the original pot, bought a new piston (Meteor). I stupidly bought a different carb (recon) before finding out that it needed to be synced to the coil etc. I was unsure with how it would go (as I’m not particularly experienced) so I didn’t want to shell out for the original parts in case I ruined it. I’d heard excellent things about the Meteor pistons and so far it hasn’t disappointed! I’m hoping that once this issue is sorted, then I’ll be able to keep it running well, as the compression/acceleration etc is excellent!

  8. 5 minutes ago, spudulike said:

    The moulded in key can shear during starting if the flywheel isn't torqued down correctly, just make sure both the crankshaft and flywheel jointing surfaces are clean and grease free then I usually crank the locating nut down pretty hard. The only exception is if the flywheel central boss isn't solid and can crack under extreme pressure.

    If you do a load of them, you know how hard to torque....I am sure ADW (Mr Torque Wrench) will give you the correct Nm figure!

    Thanks! Is there any reason why it would work to just fit a new flywheel, presuming the crank etc is ok?

  9. 1 minute ago, Dan Maynard said:

    But the crankshaft is clean?

    Usually with a taper and key like this the key is more for location and the taper should take the drive, hence why people can get away with filing down a key to advance the timing and then locking flywheel onto the taper.

    I would think it can't have been locked on properly, either contamination or a small burr or maybe locknut not to specified torque. Should be in contact over the whole taper area.

    Cheers! It’s probably some idiot not tightening the nut enough...

  10. So I bought a 550xp from a chap last month. Started but wouldn’t run (ruined piston).

    Finally managed to get all the new parts etc and ran it. 
    I absolutely loved it. Ran better than any of my other saws, and knocked spots of my 261 which is much newer and in better condition. 
    I was using it to rip out a load of Leyland today when it gave a ‘pop’ and died!

    I feared the worst and quickly got it onto the bench.

    Absolutely no damage to pot/piston/crank etc.

     

    However

     

    I took off the starter cover, and the flywheel has sheared off from the crankshaft (not damaging it), and the part of the flywheel that fits in the groove on the crank (equivalent to the woodruff key on most) was in little bits.

     

    Has anyone had anything similar happen? Any ideas how this could happen?

    Freak occurance?

     

    Ive ordered a new flywheel, are there anything that I need to be aware of when fitting it? It’s my first Husky that I’ve worked on, and it’s brilliant, far more intuitive and well designed than all of my other Stihl saws.

     

  11. Thanks all! Very helpful. I’ll let you know how it goes!!!

     

    Ive not honed a cylinder before, but the scoring doesn’t look too bad. 
    move attached a couple of pics if anyone has any other pearls!

    2075EF7C-610B-480F-BBE5-3FBB24AA0485.jpeg

    AC5D302E-061B-402C-A4F1-CE8FB6FF5D54.jpeg

  12. Evening.

     

    Picked up a non running 550xp for £100 last week with a view to it being my next saw project of this lockdown.

    Decent condition, no play in crank etc, however when I pulled the muffler off the piston was scored (the ring still moves, but it’s too bad to salvage). Ordered a Meteor piston to replace it.

    The exhaust is totally coked up, so I’m wondering what may have caused this. The spark arrestor is completely clean.

    I suppose my question is, when reassembling it, what are the pitfalls with Husky’s?

    As there’s no play in the crank I’ve not thought about replacing seals/bearings etc, and I wasn’t planning on splitting the crankcase. Is this a mistake.

    Anything else you’d replace as a matter of course as I’ve got it this far?

     

    Ive only had/used Stihl up till now.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated

     

  13. On 04/04/2020 at 09:31, spudulike said:

    If the rest is in fine fettle or at least salvageable then yes, it is worth saving. Fortunately, these saws use big roller bearings so the cases split relatively easily compared to most, assuming you remove all the screws! You should be able to pick up a case relatively easily, not sure if the cases not being a matched pair is an issue but the crank and bearings are quite live in these saws so I would try to rebuild it if it was mine.......and faced with 6 weeks at home doing sweet FA courtesy of the Chinese!

    Thank you! A chap I know locally had a pile of crankcases in a box (as you do!).

    So managed to get one for £20. 
    Going to replace the bearings/seals etc  and give it a new pot/piston too. So hopefully it should work out! Wish me luck...

    • Like 1
  14. 1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

    I ran a 36" Bar on my 064 for Milling. Handled it no bother. If its for a specific job maybe post up the details might help others to assist you. 

    Thank you for that, very helpful. Was it Stihl roll/duro That you used?That you used?

  15. Seems to be a lot of conflicting information on which boots are worthwhile to buy.

    Any advice on what to buy as a first pair of climbing boots would be greatly appreciated.

    Very used to wearing heavy boots with crampons when ice climbing, so size/weight aren't really considerations.

     

    I really like the Scafell's, but some of the reviews are a bit tepid. Scafell Lites and Meindls seem to get a better write up though...

  16. So, I’ve managed to grab myself an 020t from around 2001 (that’s when it’s original manual said it was from). It’s in great nick. As good compression as my 261c (18 months old), starts and runs well, no play in the crankshaft, no wear on the cylinder/piston.

    Didn’t cost me too much either which was a bonus (I assumed I’d need to spend a bit on it).

    However there are three things I’d ask for some advice/wisdom on.

    1) Chain turns while idling- I’m going to replace the clutch/springs, but is there anything else it might be?

    2) Very smoky, chucking out a lot of white exhaust. Is this typically an older saw thing, or is there an easy resolution?

    3) The is no chain catcher. Is this normal for the saw (I can’t see an attachment point, and there’s nothing broken off)? If it’s normal, would it be wise or possible to retrofit one?

     

    All advice very gratefully received!

    • Like 1
  17. 32 minutes ago, htb said:

    What do you want to know?

    Nothing specific. I’ve just been offered one (used) for a decent price. I think I’ll have a punt on it, obviously if the big stuff is ok. Just want the manual so that I can strip it in need be.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.