CEE

I put bradex in the carb intake - couple of sceonds good squirt Pulled it a few times Nothing So its ingintion I dont know how this is happening becuase you can see the spark on the spark plug when it's grounded and I tested the coil at be 0.5 Ohms (the spec) and I have got a 0.3mm feeler guage and set the air gap... But Bradex won't start it

Oooo ooo a clue - something has happened

it could be lots of things for example the impulse tube goes out of a hole in the piston case, it's then coupled with the inlet manifold with a rubber gasket thats built into the inlet manifold, it rusn though the manifold and comes out and is coupled to the carb by a similar rubber gasket - there are loads of ways for this to go wrong what a crap design, but the gaskets look perfect and they seem to but up against the metal surfaces very well.... but the tiniest gap in one of them would make it fail but that would mean buying a new inlet manifold which will be full price OEM - just on the 'off' chance...

Yes the fast idle mechanism is work fine I checked it. then once you blip the throttle it goes down to normal idle but in these tests it's been on fast idle. I fgiure it needs all the help it can get. L is set to 25 turns out and H is set to 2 turns out. I opened T outwards 2 turns while the carb was off and looked to make sure that there is always the tiniest tiniest crack on that butterfly so it can't be 'under' idling. Anyhow turning T back in 2 turns makes no difference. Like I said it is the spawn of the devil. It will be 'something' of course it's just that it would have been easier in hinddsight to chuck it out and buy a cheapo every coupe of years and I bought a premium brand so i would not have to be in this position so i am quite annoyed at Husqvarna to be honest.

Hi @bm01 I have cnaged the fuel to fresh. The same fuel is being used in hedge timmer no problems. I was about 3 months between it being used last but as I say it has been changed. I will try the easy start and the hot plug. @Stubby that was with the choke off - I had done the choke thing first with same blip then put it off for the video. What you can't see is that i edited the video to make it smaller to upload and I have pulled it about 30 times after that with no starting just the odd blip. Cheers

Just in case since it’s driving me crazy I have a video of it. You need to have the sound on or it’s pretty meaningless. So you can hear that it’s kinda firing while I pull then there is the tiniest blip then nothing. You can’t see on the video very well but there is smoke / it’s defo burning something. Anyway here goes in case anybody has a eureka moment. FullSizeRender.mov

ive actually ordered another new carb It's not such a long shot: I know fuel is in the bottom of the carb - you can see the bulb pulling it through. I know air is going into the engine. I know that there is a spark (but i've ordered a new coil just in case) The existing coil tests at 0.5 homs so it's bang on spec I know the timing is OK becuase the keyway is intact So I only need compression / vacumm under the piston to go along the umpulse pipe and for the carb membrane to do it's job and pump the fuel. I think it's hugely unlikely that the crank seals have gone (but i will go there if needed) if the crank seals are intact then there is pressure in the impulse pipe and fuel should pump so it's back to carb Let's assume that the original one went wrong / got clogged - it wasn't the best in the work when I reconditioned it. Maybe my clean out didn't work. Then the new aftermarket one I bought had 4/5 stars on Amazon so lets assume that 10% of the carbs they sell don't work I really could have 2 duff carbs - it's not 'that' of a long shot So another new carb coming....

Actually I have a lot of Makita tools, grinders, circular saws, SDS drlls etc.. all are very good but I have a Makita orbital sander and it's absolute crap.

yes it might be worth a try coils are cheap it has to be SOMETHING right?

actually I lie. I have 50:1 in it now with ordinary 2 stroke. I used to run it also on 50:1 with the husky oill too - as per instructions. The destruction manual says drop to 33:1 if you use regular 2 stroke so I could do that but I know that isn't enough to do this to it.

Thanks Stubby. The outboard is just mised with regular 2 stroke at 50:1. I did have 40:1 in it before with the expensive husqvarna oil. I think it might be enough to make it grumble but not kill it completely. My current guesses are either the impulse tubeway still isn't holding pressure - in fact I am surprised that it's a pipe of 3 or 4 bits of metal that seem to be just 'pressed togther' seems plenty of scope to go wrong. OR the aftermarket card is also sh*te and I've got 2 carbs on the blink unlikely but possible.... Husqvarna you are going down in my opinions very fast.

Hi, I write in desperation and you will see why. I have 4 year old Husqvarna 435. It's a low hours engine - maybe 25 hours over its whole life. It has been very carefully loked after, drained over winter, never left in rain, never dropped etc.... It's always started first time. Now it won’t start. It kind of burns feebly enough to make some smoke while the rope is being pulled and then sometimes fires but only for literally half a blip then dies and makes a bit of oily smoke the spark plug (brand new) is oily and a bit of oil comes out a bit through the spark arrestor I consider myself good with engines and maintain a year old 15hp outboard and a 20year old Toyota landcruiser I have so far: (in this order) 1) changed the spark plug, twice 2) checked that there is a lovely fat blue white spark by grounding it on the case 3) changed the air filter, 4) Left the air filter off to make sure its getting air no doubts 5) Changed the fuel filter, 6) changed the fuel out for fresh new fuel that makes the outboard run like a train so I know it’s good. 7) Taken out the plug and left it for a day to let any flooded fuel evaporate, 8) taken out the plug, turned upside down and cranked it to make 100% sure any flooded fule runs out 9) Taken off the spark arrestor - it was clear anyway. Left it off for now. 10) stripped and rebuilt the carb 11) Changed the carb out for a new one - not OEM - aftermarket 12) Carefully made sure the L and H on the carb are set to allow a start 13) Made sure there is a couple of extra turns on T to give it a helping hand 14) Taken off the muffler to find that the piston it literally like new, no carbon no scoring 15) taken off the fltwheel to find that the keyway is not sheared so timing fine 16) taken off the whole inlet boot and manifold to make sure that the 'built in' impulse pipe is clear - it (like evwerything else) was pristine 17) Checked that the air purge pumps fuel - it does - so it is drawing fuel up into the bottom of the carb under the membrane 18) Checked all the hoses, they are full of fuel, don't leak and spill the fuel when taken off so they seem to be doing their job 19) checked that the hole in the piston case, the holes in the inlet manifold and the hole in the bottom of the carb that all togther make up the impulse pipe are joined and sealed 20) pulled off the connectors from the 'cutout' switch that ground the coil to stop it running and taped them up so there is no way they can be operating by accident. There is a spark anyay. 21) I know there is good compression on the upstroke becuase it is hard to crank and then gets easy when the plug is out. 22) checked that the clutch is running freely - getting desperate now 23) considered the crankshaft oil seals leaking pressure - looked at them they at least look like new - remember it's a very low use chainsaw. All for absolutely no result. I am very careful with my mix - I have proper measuring containers and I use a syringe to put in the correct dose of oil. I use the proper expensive Husqvarna oil (like an idiot) I think that the oily cylinder and plug is a symptom of me pulling it over and over to try start it pumping fuel and oil in rather than the cause So I am about to smash it to bits with a sledgehammer. I've spent more time trying to fix it than I've used it. I thought Husqvarna was supposed to be a good make. You can get 20 inch bar 'cheapos' for £80 on ebay - it would be easier, chepaer and quicker to do that and then just chuck it out every 2 years. It's like I have a chainsaw that's been cursed. Any help much appreciated,

OK that there is my answer. I will put it in the log burner on days that aren't so cold and use it up like that.

Beech seems to be the king. Easy to split burns fantastic when dry. And plentiful in the chilterns where I live. The cherry I have was very old - the trunk lay in the woods for maybe 4 years - is there such a thing as it being past it's best ?

Hi, I have a lot of beech oak and cherry, several tons of each. I find that the cheery does not burn nearly as well as the oak and beech - especially the beech. Is this a normal thing or are my expectations too high? I have a moisture meter and all are nice and dry right through the middle - below 20% some are 10% I am just wondering because you see many forums saying how wonderful cheery is and the lovely smell - I don't get either of those things. Cheers,