Frazer Burley

Why would one do that?

Ok well this is better news. Clutch assembly and three springs fitted were OEM to rule out aftermarket quality. vibration would be :- needle bearing old/worn clutch drum old/worn sproket old/worn owt else?

Piston crown being the top surface? No indentations or dings. squish band? Piston ring? No dings just fused to piston at one point

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Hi Twiggers. Could be interested. Wanna send a price over on a DM? Cheers

Clutch springs broke at the end of the coil. Also a tip of a shoe broke on one occasion! hardly use chainbrake unless on really sketchy ground so doubt it’s that.

Pretty weird. But no sign of something obvious?

That’s the thinking but I also want to not just scrap old saws.

what about scuffs on the side of the rod?

Yep sure of the misfuel but totally agree on pressure testing before going ahead. Looking at kits now....

Weirdly the gudgeon pin is worn with indentation of the needle bearing only on one side, the other is smooth. And I'm talking not laterally on the pin. ring location pin was gone allowing piston ring to rotate around and fused onto piston.

Cool I'll give it a measure but looks likely the pitting is the end of it. Yeah I bought the saw used not too long ago so the damage may have already been done... Thanks for help

Could be guilty 🙄

So is that the crank fooked and wanting replaced? that the cause of the woes? Wear on the side case is from when a clutch spring broke and a part of it jammed between clutch and side case. Know so as when I took it off to see what was up there it was jammed. Thanks for the caliper lesson 👍

Thanks for reply Adw, yep look like the locator pin has disappeared... So you think it's all down to shit aftermarket kit? Whats a good one that's not as pricey as OEM? or is it really OEM or go home?

Hey folks Got a 346 that has had an aftermarket cylinder/piston in after a dry fuel mix incident a few years ago. Has run for a couple years ok, never really as powerful but i did get the cheapo ebay one so to be expected. Recently stopped running needing throttle on to start then dying. Very low compression. Ripped it down and found this... First picture shows intake side. Little scoring. Would that cause issues? Second picture exhaust side. One strong line of scoring where piston ring was fused to cylinder... Tan discolouration around top area Third picture is wrist pin showing indentation from needle bearing on one side only. Whats that about?! assume it's not good... Fourth picture is showing scoring at top of cylinder on exhaust side. Maybe slightest up and down play in con rod. maybe not, hard to tell... Any help be good cheers IMG_1736.DNG IMG_1737.DNG IMG_1738.DNG IMG_1741.DNG

Hey folks thanks for replies. Got into it today along with 346 that isnt working but I'll leave that for another topic... Adw - .325 chain on 17" bar Stubby - Looks like no signs of excessive wesr on drum or shoes (i.e. no ridging) So I took some pictures that might help although I'm still baffled. One thing I did find was a little pitting/abrasion on the crank shaft. Also the oiler drive sproket is different from other ones I've seen but saw oils fine... And some weird marks on the chainbrake band but looking at my other saw there is similar. Any ideas be great thanks

Thanks for the reply Spud. I’m away working but will post photos when back home on the workshop and see if I can illuminate the issue. tbc…

Hey folks Trying to solve the chainsaw qualm of the month... Got this saw off marketplace. Ran fine for 6 months of part time professional use. Happy camper. Then broke clutch spring. Thought nothing of it and replaced it along with needle bearing that was shot. Did a few hours work then another broke shortly after. Weird. Maybe it was 'cause I didn't replace all three. Replace all three. Does another few hours and then another to go. Replace clutch assembly OEM part with three new springs in. Bit more work spring breaks. Head scratching really begins. Maybe drum is worn? swap out for drum off 346 that seems to have less play in it. Bit more work. Spring breaks. Notice that the clutch is really hot. This is propbably the issue....(?) What could be cause? I've... New needle bearing (greased with Husky grease) Good Clutch Drum (cleaned, no dirt/grease) New Sprocket New clutch assembly and springs (full set) Chain not overtight Brake band not contacting clutch drum Saw runs at full power both in and out of cut (clutch not noticibly slipping) Bar oiling as normal Only thing I can think is worn crank shaft allowing play in the whole system causing heat build up? But shaft looks fine and no ribbing or noticeable damage from fried needle bearing. Any ideas would be bloody amazing! Cheers

Now then we’re looking at one of these loaders primarily as a firewood processing tool - moving ibcs around, grabbing logs off stack (small/medium) etc struggling to find much info on them. Anyone have any experience? Advice? Ive used a Schaffer pivot steer a fair bit and found it extremely versatile and very useful. any help would be grand thanks Frazer

Hi there! I'm a recently qualified (CS30,31) groundsman looking for work in Cumbria. I have 8 days experience with a tree surgeon and work part time coppice working. I'm looking for work Mon-Weds (weekends also). Have transport, saw and PPE. Please give me a shout on here or on 07954046745 if you need someone keen and hardworking! cheers Frazer