Fatboy2017
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Everything posted by Fatboy2017
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In the first picture it looks like there is a quite a build up of carbon? Could be carbon damage? What oil and ratio do you run?
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I heard of someone used one of these in conjunction with his coil Ignition Coil – Red – 2 Pin | DBRacing DBRACING.CO.UK
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What I was suggesting for £10 it's worth trying one of the cheap dual port ones, if it is better then you can make the choice if you want to pay over £100 for a modified OE one. The cheap ones are ok for firewood users but if used as a production / heavy user then of course they won't last as long, I've used them on Husky 55 and 365 and they were ok.
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Exhausts are available aftermarket on ebay very cheap, worth buying to try and not to damage the original. When you get the standard one off, the weight will tell you if there is much inside. I don't have personal experience of MM a 361.
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I assume you have the early type steel oil pump drive scroll, if you do you need item 21 plus associated spacers etc on parts diagram below, if you can't find one let me know. Probably L&S Engineering can supply the later part but not item 21 as I think NLA now. The later set up as per parts diagram are much better as the oil pump drive only when the chain is running, but you would have to change the oil pump and pump drive and washers etc, or get yourself a 520 parts saw as they come quite cheap and plentiful. Makita DCS 430 520 parts manual.pdfMakita DCS 430 520 parts manual.pdf
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This is where the ones I have used came from, I think they all come from the same factory, but who knows! Ignition Coil Module For Dolmar 112 113 114 116 120si PS6000 PS6800 030143040 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Replace Part # for. We promise that sovle any problems if you had.
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Just use the one for example from 6000/6800i, you can use this later coil as a replacement for even early points saws 112 etc. You can find s/h or new ones or use AM ones. I have used both and to be honest I have had 100% success rate ( probably 20 odd) from the AM ones I used. You just have to fit a spade connector on the wire and shave a little off the post to allow the coil to fit flush, it is obvious when you come to fit one. Unscrew and cut HT lead to length. They are about £16 each. Of course fitting AM can be a crap shoot but it's your choice. Just make sure to use NGK BPMR7A spark plugs
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All 5 are the same. Same on 116, 116i,120i and 6000i /6800i even 9010 fit. Its possible that the mounting came loose at some time and enlarged the thread in the tank and somebody fitted a mount from something none Dolmar. If so, maybe helicoil and fit new original mounts. Mounts still available from L& S Engineering. Plenty of s/h tanks around, both metal and plastic.
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For 40;1 for 5litres add 125ml of 2 stroke oil.
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If you're experienced in carb adjustment technique excellent, if not you could follow this procedure in the link below. Again just in case you weren't aware, only cut with the engine on max throttle opening, not part throttle
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The 2 stroke oils you are using can effect this. Try to use FD spec oil, or at least FC. Typically these are Echo oil, Husky Motul plus others. ( some of the Stihl oil are not even FD spec so be careful!) Try not to use the cheaper generic oils. I always use the term 'oil is cheaper than metal' . Also the mixture maybe set too rich causing unburnt fuel exiting the motor, plus if carbon is building up it on the screen it is usually building up on the piston and rings as well.
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Remove the airfilter and you should see the fuel pipes which go into a single grommet, the breather is separate typically a white Echo type pushed into a black grommet on top of the tank by the carb
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Try ROWENA MOTORS 01248 715552 www.rowenacarbs.co.uk
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I had a look today but unfortunately it's a Dolmar 100 clutch cover I have' the one that has the brake band inside
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Available new for only £14, I'll have a look at the weekend if I have a s/h one
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I have a Mityvac and also this one below, I have saws in this country and abroad and use this one when I'm there, a few years old and to be honest it was well worth the money and has paid for itself many times over! it's aluminium construction. you see some that appear to be the same, but take care, they only do vacuum, just look at the pictures of the gauge and you will see either vacuum only or pressure / vacuum Car Hand Held Vacuum And Pressure Pump Tester Brake Fluid Bleeder Kit WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 22pcs Brake Bleeder Tester Tool Kit Vacuum Pump Motorcycle Bleeding Hand Pump. Suitable for checking pressure and vacuum systems such as: Checking charging pressure...
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Being a battery saw, as soon as you release the switch the chain stops almost instantly, plus they have a guard above the bar / chain and as they are so light and the balance point is pretty close to spot on, there is no chance of a kickback. When I use my small saw (either a Makita 3500 or 3501 or Dolmar dcs 401) whilst coppicing or limbing, particularly or holly, hawthorn or leylandii, it's common to catch a neighbouring limb which puts you in danger of kickback
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I received a Saker mini chainsaw today. My wife has been pressing me to order one but after reading a post on another thread decided to give it a go. To be honest it was a pleasant surprize! It makes pruning and limbing much quicker and more efficient. I was using a Silky and on limbs bigger than 1",a small chainsaw, but this cuts it down to one tool and certainly is safer than using the small saw. I got it direct from Saker UK and it arrived two days after order. It definitely has a place in the line-up and a lot more forgiving on the carpel tunnel and the wife can now do that job!!
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I know who you mean, the supplier from Malaysia, @robinwood, he's a top guy, very honest and reliable and supplies Stihl, Husky and Echo saws at very good prices, all genuine, not copies, a lot depends on exchange rates, but he will try to work with you. Some of the saws he supply's are what we would call 'old' models but are still produced for some markets, eg Echo 1201, he has supplied quite a few people on here and other forums, and from what I've seen, people have been satisfied
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I got one of these sets, very useful and comes in a wallet which keeps tools together 25PCS Tool Kit Chainsaw Craftsman Screwdriver Splined Carb Carburetor Adjusting WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 25PCS Tool Kit Chainsaw Craftsman Screwdriver Splined Carb Carburetor Adjusting at the best online prices at eBay! Free...
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I'm up in Cheshire, so a good way from you. The 3200 is a clamshell type, still has some good features but not as well built as the 3500 and of course less grunt, given the choice I would go for the 3500 if you could find one.
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I also have carpal tunnel and find the vibes acceptable, they are spring type AV not rubber. It's a shame you're not closer, you could have tried one first!
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To be honest I the above Makita (plus many others!) Yes Makita bought Dolmar. They are a great saw, good power and response for the size. Mine was built in Germany, later ones in China (like Stihl homeowner saws) I always pick it up when I need to cut small limbs / trees. As you may not know Makita have stopped making petrol saws now, but to be honest parts are not a problem and you should not need much, I order parts all the time and have always found most of the parts for newer and older Makita / Dolmars, if you were concerned you could pick up some common parts just in case. They have adjustable oiler, inboard clutch and alloy not plastic case and are very well built
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Another alternative you could try (nothing to lose) is, if I'm not mistaken, the area behind the pin boss is behind the exhaust, you could drill it through, clean up / level the area where it has sheared off, use a stud with a small shoulder, with a thread on one end, drill out the centre of the other end of the stud with clearance to take the pin, there is not much load on it, the original area must have had too much clearance on the pin , so loose, causing it to move back and forth ending in failure, cost very little if you do it yourself and if it doesn't work then you fit new case.
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Another thing you can do to satisfy yourself is to have a look at the fuel, I suppose you still have some? Tip it into a glass container from the can or whatever you keep it in, do not shake it, just dispense it and leave it a while, check the colour first and you could see water separating out and fuel goes cloudy as it goes off, plus smell it, stale fuel smells! If you cannot see anything obvious you can get it tested, but it costs of course! This may help with your self doubt or confirm it's the fuel or not.
