Fatboy2017

Just seen this advert, anybody know anything about this company? A quick search didn't show anything.

Thanks Mark. It would be good to see what you can find out.

Got it!

I will get a new battery at the start of the new year. I am a bit windy about connecting the new battery to the old one but in theory it shouldn't harm the new one but maybe it will trigger a fault in the new one? Is there any merit in connecting a single 18v battery to the old one? Or 2 x 18v in series? I have loads of them! The consensus seems to be that if the battery are completely discharged then you have to reset the BMS with the Stihl software, but I've not actually had this confirmed yet as the Stihl software is very expensive, plus I suppose the quickest and easiest method is to chuck a new battery on the thing. Mark at Skyland said he would look into putting a battery on his diagnostic but for sure it will not be high on his priority list! I think as these battery things get more popular it would benefit from understanding the functions, but the manufactures also have to want to do this. My brother has a 12 month old e-bike which he stupidly pressure washed, water got in and it blew a diode or whatever in the BMS board. No help from the manufacturer - just buy a new battery!! It's fixable if you recognise the diode, but it burned and can't read anything on it. Tried to find a hobby electronics' person but don't know one. In the past I used to send all my faulty car music centre's to a guy who was an electronics' wizard at an RAF base, he fixed everything!! If you need manufacturer's kit to remove codes or switch thing on again then we're snookered!!

I'm going to try to repair the existing housing pin first. I plan to machine the pin with a new circlip groove and lower the nylon engagement part to allow the washer and circlip to be fitted. I know professionals are not keen on the ergo starts for every day use, but they have a place for the firewood cutters who are elderly or physical compromised and require a quality machine. The only problem I have is remembering not to drop start them. I can buy a new housing inc shipping for £74, or buy secondhand none ergo for £63. I haven't checked with seller above if the are Motronic or not as well as they are different. If I could find a secondhand ergo start from a 261 or a 291 that would be the answer. The only other issue is that with the ergo start, saw is not fitted with a decomp valve although I don't think it would be a problem for 90% of users, I can still start my Husky 2100 and Dolmar 9000 without a decomp at 67, what is the general opinion on this?

Totally agree on the time, I'm retired so don't mind spending some time on research and a bit of messing, it's a hobby for me using saws and repairing / maintaining them. If you had to pay for the time it 100% would not be economical, but I hate waste and adding more stuff to the scrap bin so worth it to explore the possibilities of reclaiming something and sharing the experience with others. The majority of my saws have been reclaimed from 'spares or repair' pile and find it keeps me active mentally and physically repairing OPE and cutting wood for my home and maintaining a hectare of woodland plus looking after numerous neighbours equipment as well. I don't like the throwaway society and being a mechanic by trade it's in my blood to at least to have a go at fixing things.

I'll probably get another battery - I only have one, then I can try this, just a bit concerned it could damage a good battery, is that a possibility?

Thanks, you and Kram suggested this route, for £10 worth a try, I'll let you know, set ordered!

Any info on this Mark?

I have the guide which I got a few years ago, but decided I should spend more time on freehand filing and never used the guide! I think like you, for the 1/4 chain it would be better without.

There doesn't look to be much in the way of BMS electronic circuit board in there, but it maybe behind the charge level lights and reset knob, I will strip it again and look for it.

Good idea! I've got a Dremel and I think some 4mm rotary Granberg bits, I'll give it a go! Just got to get the battery up and running.

Correct! It has a torx end but I didn't see a purpose, I haven't stripped it down fully yet as it didn't show a replacement shaft on the parts diagram. What I was looking at doing was to bore the plastic starter piece (number 23) down by 5mm or so and machine a new groove in the shaft for the clip. Next job is to see if the shaft can be removed or is moulded into the cover.! Thanks for the offer on the machining.

Thanks Mark, I was hoping you had some insight into these Stihl battery thingies!

I will have another look over the next few days. It looks quite difficult to get to each end of each battery. Kram / openspaceman What do you think about this : https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+bring+a+cordless+battery+back+to+life&rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBGB899GB899&oq=How+to+wake+up+a+cordless+battery&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqDQgEEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyBggAEEUYOTIICAEQABgWGB4yCAgCEAAYFhgeMggIAxAAGBYYHjINCAQQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAUQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAYQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAcQABiGAxiABBiKBTIKCAgQABiABBiiBDIKCAkQABiABBiiBNIBCTI2MzU5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:271e8dc7,vid:aoumXaIhuNI,st:0

Archer and Husqvarna do bars that will fit the Efco, I think A095 fitment (Oregon ID)

I just tried the reset button, it's a AP200, this is what happens when connected and switched on, plus took battery apart to try what Kram suggested, but over my head, not have the brains to understand how to test each battery without pulling the whole thing apart! Meter connected to the positive and neg contacts 20251212_140151.mp4 20251212_150508_1301431698155726.mp4

Photos below! It looks possible to maybe weld a 'blob' on the top then grind a groove back in with a Dremel for the circlip. The post does not show as a separate part although it has a T27 hole in the top! Just priced it up new £74 with the VAT and shipping, Unless somebody has a complete flywheel and cover assembly then it looks like a new one! I see lots of Chinese starter housings for sale but reluctant to take a risk on those! but £15 complete!! The washer is on after clip to keep it all in position, not as it should be under clip!

I'll try that now! just going to the workshop, thanks for that snippet!

For info what 1/4 chains does everybody use? I've only used the Stihl chain which cuts well and smooth, but still a bit pricey, any alternative worth using? As muddy42 says limiting factor is old eyes, I have set up good lighting a break out the reading glasses to even attempt filing! I'll have to try the 4mm file, I use the file holder method to keep the file from bending on this and on the top handle saws.

Thanks for the relies. I agree on all the info, I picked the saw up with a family members elderly father in law in mind who wanted a 50cc or slightly larger, either Husky or Stihl , got a MS260 as well so he could have a choice, both are in pretty ok condition for the years and just required the usual suspects, fuel lines, filters, clutch bearing, and mounts on the 260 and fuel line ( filter line lying in the bottom of the tank!) of course carb clean as screen full of crap, clutch bearing and clutch retainers and the wing nut as fitted with the stupid quick tensioner also on this MS261c plus this easy start issue I found. I will photo it and also look at seeing if I can look to make a good repair on it. This saw also has a 20" Stihl 0.325 bar on it! in as new condition. I got a part number for the easy start housing only as 1141 080 1808, but haven't checked if it's available, price listed £82

I have a 2010 MS261c non Motronic, non decompressor model, fitted with an easy start system which contrary to a lot of views I'm ok with as I have a few Dolmar / Makita saws fitted with easy start system so used to them. However I bought this saw recently from a tool dealer who used it himself for a while. When I went to look at the saw he drop started it a few times which is the best way to damage them! Anyway I went through the saw to repair / service anything required and when I took the starter housing off the pull start bits fell out! The very end of the shaft which the easy tart bits are fitted has a circlip and this end piece of the shaft has broken off. Question is, what is involved in replacing the easy start housing with a standard start housing? Is it just housing swap? is the flywheel the same?. A replacement easy start housing is a bit pricey, second-hand ones are not that common.

Thanks for all the ideas and info, I'm not so well up on the battery technology and must get over it and see what I can do! I have 3 saws in bits that require assembling and then I'll get the battery apart. I have small smart battery charger that I use on my motorbike battery, 6V old BSA , so hopefully I can use that? I know from the past colleague's in my old job used to charge racing batteries with phone chargers, I have plenty them so if that's a better option please let me know.

Not by me, but I got it second-hand in spring, it worked well for a battery saw, I was pleasantly surprised, 1/4" chain is a fiddle to sharpen. Used it lots for light work, then put it away with battery left about 75% charge, 3 lights, but I left it in the saw, not sure if that's why it discharged? Looks like I'll have to have mess with it as Kram suggested, I have seen some info about kick starting it by connecting another battery to to two outside terminals for a few seconds, but I don't have another 36v battery to use, plenty of 20v! I wonder if Mark at Skyland has a simple practical solution? He is quite close to me, hopefully he'll chime in! Thanks for all the suggestions. I service / repair all my saws, but this electric stuff has a place but initial cost and the cost of batteries limits my use and of course the lack of power versus weight, I much prefer petrol for 90% of jobs.

Not by me, but I got it second-hand in spring, it worked well for a battery saw, I was pleasantly surprised, 1/4" chain is a fiddle to sharpen. Used it lots for light work, then put it away with battery left about 75% charge, 3 lights, but I left it in the saw, not sure if that's why it discharged? Looks like I'll have to have mess with it as Kram suggested, I have seen some info about kick starting it by connecting another battery to to two outside terminals for a few seconds, but I don't have another 36v battery to use, plenty of 20v! I wonder if Mark at Skyland has a simple practical solution? He is quite close to me, hopefully he'll chime in! Thanks for all the suggestions. I service / repair all my saws, but this electric stuff has a place but initial cost and the cost of batteries limits my use and of course the lack of power versus weight, I much prefer petrol for 90% of jobs.