Fatboy2017

I use 40:1 across all my saws to make it easier so all saws use the same mix, from the old to the newer, from old and new Dolmars and Makita's from small to the largest, plus Husky's 353 upto 2100, Oleo-mac and Partners as well. I haven't counted recently but probably about 50 in total. I feel that as some are not used regularly it helps to run a bit more oil to keep a little extra oil in the cases to reduce the risk of drying out and corrosion, just my take on it. Upto quite recently Husqvarna stated on the larger saws to runs a stronger mix on their bigger saws, I believe due to the impact on environmental issues rather than other reasons they don't show this anymore, of course the later oils are far superior than oils from yesteryear but as all manufacturers aren't interested in products lasting for a a long time and to satisfy environmental restraints, I except the 'go with what the oil manufacturers recommend' but having spent my working career as a mechanic/ engineer with most of it in motorsport I prefer to run a little bit extra! I liken it to some people like to remove cats and mod exhausts to help with breathing and temperature, but manufactures don't recommend this.

Personal choice, you use 50:1, I choose to run a little bit more oil to lube the bottom ends, they don't smoke or carbon up so a little extra security. Plus after stripping some saws especially strato saws the bottom end were always dry plus after a lot of bottom end failures on some of the later saws ( not mine) extra oil seems to solve that.

When the manual was written we didn't have fuel with ethanol in it. For long term storage use Aspen or other canned fuel. I use Aspen 4 and add FD spec oil at min 40:1 or 32: 1 for older / bigger saws. Assuming the saw not used too much then just use Aspen all the time. If used a lot and using E5 or E10, then before storage run the saw till out of fuel, top up with Aspen, run up again to make sure fuel is throughout carb, top up to full to stop the risk of condensation and store in ideally dry area, not on concrete floor.

Have a look at the Foggysail fix on another site, it should help!

Odd! got it from the 357 xp Husky parts IPL parts-diagram-357xp.pdf

or 3/8" small splined rim 5015980-02 option

Aftermarket bits are sometimes a crapshoot, OEM oil pump drives are recommended

I'll Try again! Husqvarna 357 service manual.pdf parts-diagram-357xp.pdf

sorry wrong model!!

these may help Husqvarna353 workhop manual.pdf Husqvarna 340, 345, 346XP,350, 351, 353 99460.pdf

Repair service Ignition Coil Bosch Dolmar 123 Ducati Stihl 045 056 045AV 056AV WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Bosch i Ducati do Stihl 045 056 AV 045AV 056AV. - Dolmar 123. This service is for the repair coil, ignition module. We repair ignition coil for We always repair it !

Aftermarket coils are available, Chinese of course, so not always reliable, the ones I used worked ok, plus not expensive, but the original units are quite reliable, usually the wiring rots or the internal capacitor fails. As your unit has had an aftermarket trigger fitted to replace the failed potted capacitor, it all points to this trigger being the problem, as I wrote they tend not to last long under the flywheel Ignition Coil Module Fits Stihl 041 AV FB 045 AV 056 020 Dolmar 119 120 122 133 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Fit Stihl 041 AV FB 045 AV 056 020 Dolmar 119 120 122 133 Chainsaw. - Great for Stihl 041 AV FB 045 AV 056 020 Dolmar 119 120 122 133. 16" Guide Bar And 3 x Chains Combo for...

I have fitted these capacitors on Bosch ignitions on Stihl and Dolmar units, same as Husky Bosch and worked well. You can them easily, if not let me know I think I have some spare.

Somebody has fitted a chip in place of the capacitor, the alloy unit with the two wires on it, they tend to fail after a while if fitted under the flywheel due to heat. Fit a replacement capacitor but remotely , by air filter or somewhere out of heat. For capacitor type: Or try Saegenspazi in Germany for complete replacement unit,

Is this what you're after? Stihl MSA220 service manual.pdf Stihl MSA220 IPL.pdf

Post some photos of the saws. To be honest they sound like Chinese clones, Stihl don't normally put 440 on the clutch cover, but the clones do!

With regards to the CAT you can do it two ways, either pick / drill then grind out the CAT centre and then slightly increase the outlet hole ( under the spark arrestor area or grind the welds off with a die grinder bit and remove the whole CAT including the outer tube, also increase the outlet slightly, this takes out a bit more weight than removing jut the centre, plus no chance of leaving any CAT material stuck on the tube, lessening the chance of it coming off in future and being consumed by the motor. Even after a few chain coming off episodes It never took off the chain catcher but for sure it won't do any harm to fit a rubber to it, I just bought a new spare cover ( very cheap) just in case!

I find GATOR chain oil to work well and a good price

The other thing to note is that the 3500 really benefit from a CAT removal and a retune, only a very slight increase in noise but an improvement in performance and a lot less heat

Firstly, good choice on your 3500! I have a couple and find them a good saw which punches above it's weight. They are built very well and include many features from pro saws. They always start well and even when fitted with the easy start system which, once you get it into your head of how it functions, have had no problems with the 3500's. Only criticism is they weigh slightly more than they should but this is because of the build quality and this is outweighed by the performance. My saws came with the small radius bars as yours and had a few issues of freezing tips due to debris in the outer sprocket and a number of chains derailing, which is something I ever generally have a problem with. I tried different chains but this problem persisted. Whilst hedging, pruning and pollarding this was a daily occurrence. After reading about others having the same problem ( on this forum) I tried the larger radius bars and this immediately solved the problems. I did not find any increased feeling of any more inclination towards kickback, I actually felt the saw was more controllable, if that makes sense. In my opinion try the larger radius bar and draw your own conclusion, it would be interesting to get another opinion as always.

In the first picture it looks like there is a quite a build up of carbon? Could be carbon damage? What oil and ratio do you run?

I heard of someone used one of these in conjunction with his coil Ignition Coil – Red – 2 Pin | DBRacing DBRACING.CO.UK

What I was suggesting for £10 it's worth trying one of the cheap dual port ones, if it is better then you can make the choice if you want to pay over £100 for a modified OE one. The cheap ones are ok for firewood users but if used as a production / heavy user then of course they won't last as long, I've used them on Husky 55 and 365 and they were ok.

Exhausts are available aftermarket on ebay very cheap, worth buying to try and not to damage the original. When you get the standard one off, the weight will tell you if there is much inside. I don't have personal experience of MM a 361.

I assume you have the early type steel oil pump drive scroll, if you do you need item 21 plus associated spacers etc on parts diagram below, if you can't find one let me know. Probably L&S Engineering can supply the later part but not item 21 as I think NLA now. The later set up as per parts diagram are much better as the oil pump drive only when the chain is running, but you would have to change the oil pump and pump drive and washers etc, or get yourself a 520 parts saw as they come quite cheap and plentiful. Makita DCS 430 520 parts manual.pdfMakita DCS 430 520 parts manual.pdf